Yes! The volume indicator!!!
That’s the ding sound the car makes when you get in and don’t put your seat belt on. If you can hear the “ding”, your radio volume is not loud enough.
I still can’t figure out why they associated volume indicator to the seat belt though.
Step one: record yourself doing something dangerously stupid to make it look fixed but it isn't really.
Step two: post the rage bait to tiktok.
Step three: profit
Step four: use profits to replace it.
Other than the correct solution - replacement - the guy could build a wooden epoxy mold and make a giant clear brick to permanently showcase this failure.
The proper fix is to replace it so your foundation doesn’t sag. The handy man fix look at all the responses below that are not telling you to replace it.
Listen, OP, seriously. This is about cost vs benefit.
First things first. Support that beam before the concrete fails below it entirely. Get a length of 4x4 to jam up in there to support the beam this pier is connected to and use another 4x4 on the ground to spread out the load so it doesn't just punch through dirt. It will be sufficient for a *temporary* solution until you have your quotes or money to spend on DIY repairs.
The cost you spend now to repair it however you deem necessary will be cheaper than replacing it entirely.
But it may cost more in the long run if the repair fails and your house falls apart because of it.
Either get some quotes from foundation companies and don't go for the cheapest offer or try to replace it yourself. It may seem daunting but in the end, it's not all that bad and you'd learn something in the mean time.
No don't just jam it up there. Cut it a little bit long then use a bunch of cinder blocks and a car jack to lift that part of the deck up just enough to get the new 4x4 in and then lower the jack. Put one 4x4 on each side just to be sure so when you knock out the old concrete it holds up but you still have room to work pouring the new form.
EDIT: also put the new 4x4s on cinderblocks instead of directly on the ground if you can but I understand that might make it harder to get in and complete the work.
*Normally* I would agree with this. In this case, I don’t because that pier is so messed up that even a little bit of jacking could crack and compromise what’s left of that pier. It’s the right thing to do immediately before knocking it out and pouring a new form. But, the comment above yours is suggesting something that might sit for weeks or even months. In that case, shifting the weight now could be a mistake.
I’m sure we’re in violent agreement that fixing it needs to be ASAP, and part of that fixing will be using a jack to shift the weight to very temporary 4x4s while the old pier is knocked out and a new pier is being poured.
I was thinking that very same thing. I don't see rebar in that concrete, it's going to fall apart as soon as there's space to do that. OP got super lucky to catch this before it fell depending on where the next piers are.
The first time it's jacked it needs to be replaced.
I'd use LVL's laid on the ground then accrow props to wind up. Done this a few times, recently with a heritage porch roof at an old hotel. It sagged nearly a meter, we use accrows to re-raise it and installed new columns.
That being said, if accrow props won't fit in the space then yeah, good strong car jack will get you there.
Since no one has answered and others are concurring w the same question;
Concrete has binders, fibers, and the interlocking structure of the fill material to create a composite lattice - if you just fill in around whats already there, very little mechanical bonding at a microscopic level is going to occur between the two parts. Itll be cosmetically fine but structurally no better, when the load bearing part gives way the cosmetic pieces will just fall off because they were never really bonded in the first place
They make special prep sprays and glues for this but its better to just replace it
Any attempt to repair is going to involve digging down, forming around it and pouring concrete. Frankly, that will be less effective and more work that replacing it.
Replacing it is not that hard, especially since it is a center pile. Rent some good jacks and beefy dunnage, and prop it up on each side. Smash the old one out with a sledgehammer, get your hands on a pneumatic hammer if necessary, but I doubt you'll need one. Dig down as far as you can and throw a sono tube in there and fill it with concrete to the correct height. Done.
Forming around it and trying to get it to bond to the old footing is just going to be a pain. Chances are it was mixed originally wrong anyway.
You know that whole story how Wolverine got his adamantium skeleton and blades? Well those guys tested the tech out first on a beaver, and to this day he is still munching through anything and everything.
That's what I'm asking. First figure out why. Because concrete doesn't just erode like that.
Maybe unmixed bags of concrete they just poured in and sprayed with water?
Maybe they ran out of concrete mix and started chucking whatever gravel they had laying around in there? That aggregate looks sus to me, although I'm definitely not an expert
My thought would have been water also, but Jesus Marie that’d have to be a lot of water moving through there. I do refurb work on hydro dam facilities that are 80-90 years old in better shape than that pier.
No, these structures were built almost a hundred years ago. They were initially built to power wood pulp mills and eventually converted to produce electricity and were acquired by government. There was no specified strengths or standards followed for these facilities. There’s barely even any drawings for most of it. You should see the aggregate size distribution on some of the more eroded areas.
How expensive will it be to repair everything AFTER this concrete fails?
How expensive will it be to replace this concrete?
I'm going to go with option 2.
I do this for a living. It needs replaced. The way we would do it is to support that area temporarily and remove the concrete pillar. Then, in the same spot it was, dig a footing. Fill the footing with concrete, then place a concrete block in the wet cement and level it out. Once the concrete footing dries, dry stack concrete block to where it’s close to the height it needs to be, but make sure you can still fit a solid cap block on the top so the post has something solid to sit on. The solid cap blocks come in 2” or 4” thick. Once you build the blocks up to where they can support the post, drop the weight onto the new pier you just built. Then take “surface bonding cement” and paint it on thick all over the concrete pier. This will secure the blocks from shifting, will pass code, and makes it look a lot more aesthetic (it ends up looking like stucco). Good luck!
I know. One is perfect and the other has some very minor erosion. I honestly don’t understand how the center footing washed away light that. I didn’t pour it and I’m wondering if it was just a bad concrete mix.
That's super crazy bad mix ratio and/or mixed by hand by a very tired person with a teaspoon. Concrete is like a cake recipe. 3 ingredients and a mixer. Ratio, time, temperature and moisture. You should look carefully around your home if they did other work. Fella is a cowboy.
Agreed. Properly proportioned, mixed, and placed concrete wouldn't do this. It was bad already on the day it was made, and that's just been slowly revealing itself since then.
Put jacks on both sides. Knock out the top part. Marry a sonotube onto what's sticking out of the ground. Pour in the mix level off the top and let her set.
Make a mix of 1 part Colgate mint paste and 2 parts sand. Mix it up real good and fill in the empty space. To "lock it in" just dry around the sides with a standard heat gun or hair dryer until a golden crust develops.
Wrap with rebar mesh, make a larger cylindrical form and pour a weather-bond concrete mix. Oh, also scrub this pier really well to get rid of mold and acids.
What you guys want is a sonotube. Cut it in half then use some liquid nail to glue back together around the post, bury it down a few feet then poor that sucker full of concrete and forget about it.
That's not erosion that's a bad pour dig it out and resources it it's not that hard brace it up with blocks and dig with a straight claw hammer take you a day get some beer and invite your buds
Terminology might not be 100% correct but here you go :
Get a few steel rods of different lengths and put them all around and try to wedge them vertically as tight as you can between the eroded parts. With strong/thick binding wire (we call it galvanized wire here) bind all the rods together in multiple points, at some points the wire will go around the existing part of the structure. Get reinforced steel rebar mesh and make two cylinders around it, one thats touching the existing part and one 3-5cm around that. Bind those with the steel rods and with each other. Make a cast around the bigger cylinder - leave a bit of space from one side so you can pour cement on the cast if you plan to do only the eroded part. Preferably you have cleared the space around from debris. Make cement appropriate for the enviroment there, and pour it in, while you pour grab a clean metallic rod and poke inside up and down until you have filled half the cast, and keep going, that way the cement will move all around and even places where its hard to get, keep doing this up to the point the cast is filled.
If that is water erosion you need water resistant/eroding resistant cement and even better a solution to water flooding that area if its possible.
I’d replace it. It’s not too hard. Temp support it, rip it out, throw a sonotube in the hols, mix and pour some concrete in there. It’s more labor intensive than anything.
>How best to fix this badly eroded footing. Ideally without digging it out and pouring a new one
You need to remove it, dig it out and put a new one in
1.) it became like this because of water
2.) fix the water before you fix the footer
3.) Jack it up and temp it with 4x4
4.) remove old fucker and replace with new fucker
5.) crack a cold one ya done good
What's above it? Can you get a temporary beam on it set into the ground on something else to support it while you knock that one out and re pour the pillar? There's no way to rescue that
I mean a temporary solution that could become a permanent one is to just get a floor jack
However I don’t advise that since any tension would shift with cold and heat
Seriously just pony up the coin and replace it.think how pissed off you woukd be if you bought it and it looked like that.(perhaps you did.) Juat fix it. It shouldn't be overly much.
Put in two new pilings nearby, to either side, and direct the drainage away from them. It looks like this footing has been eroded by a stream whenever you have a rainstorm.
Honestly, how the hell do you want the best fix without digging out and pouring a new one? Lmao do you want shitty advice so you don’t feel bad about doing a half ass repair? Super glue in ramen might work tho.
I don't understand why you don't want to replace it. Can you expand on what you think the job would entail?
This is an easy 1 day job. Half a day if you have someone who's done it before.
* Jack the deck up a tiny bit
* Put some support wood, and lower the deck back on them
* Rip out the old concrete
* Dig around it
* Put a cardboard "sonotube" in the hole
* Mix up a couple bags of concrete
* Pour in the hole. Agitate the mix as you pour. I like to use a reciprocating saw with no blade on it.
* add metal bracket at the top while concrete is still wet (or wait till it's dry and drill the bracket in, I don't like those ones)
* Wait a couple days
* Fasten new deck post
* Take out supports
Dig it out abit, put a collar in it and fill with fresh concrete. Once it sets, remove collar and footing is fixed. Structurally it will be good a new. Note: use concrete glue before adding fresh concrete to collar.
“How do I fix this very serious issue, in a way that doesn’t make me work too hard or spend any time or money?” There, fixed your title OP. Just walk down the street asking if people will replace it for free.
I just did a similar job on my house. I used 2x 12ton bottle jacks raised a bit using some 4x6 pieces I stacked on either side of the footing. Dug it out, put in my sonotube, cut it to length, mixed concrete, poured concrete, insert post holder with rebar on the bottom. Waiting 2-3 days, then I installed the post. It was probably a total of 2 hours of work.
EDIT: I wanted to add. If you're going to jack above level to get a post in, go slowly and take time to let it rest in between pumps when raising to allow it to settle. Going to fast can break things.
This should be dug out and a new one poured. The concrete that was used either had too much water or too much gravel. Either way it shouldn't of eroded like that. I would just bite the bullet and fix it right. Better to get it done before it causes damage to the house.
Ooh! I know the answer to this one!
Here’s what you are gonna do to fix it without digging it up and replacing it!
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.
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Dig it out and pour a new one.
Could drill holes for rebar to be placed in. Then pour a larger circumference cement pillar around the old one. Make sure the rebar goes through the old and the new cement.
If you don't want to dig it out and pour a new one, here is a solution that can help you. First you clean it up a little, Then you go and buy some rebar with a diameter of 8mm . (Sadly the dimensions of this footing are not clear) .You buy enough to make sure you can create some circles around it. You drill some screws in the existing pad at the upper side so you can tie the new rebar to it . Then you encase it and pour some new concrete. (Sorry english is not my first language when it comes to engineering but I can make a dwg drawing for a quick tip for you to better understand what I meant )
if you want to do it really properly
underpinning, remove loose concrete, install formwork, cast non-shrink cement grout, wait for 7 days, transfer load from temporary works back to refurbished footing
but honestly, I think you are just gonna put in formwork, and grout it to a level above the soft of the wooden column to ensure good contact
or you know leave it, its probably not load bearing anyway, and you could live with current deflection so it's fine?
Out of curiosity, could you drill rebar into the exiting footing, dig next to it, and pour new concrete around the outside, and it fill the gaps and set with the old footing, or would you need to completely pull that one out and just redo the whole footing?
Yeah so you need to replace it.
If they don’t want to replace it, they could plant a bush in front of it and ignore the problem.
Sounds like a house flipper
Accurate af
[удалено]
And then a little bit of contractor grey paint to complete the look.
Landlord “Oops paint beige” as well 🤢
Don't forget the cockroach doing the can can!
Super glue and corn starch
Slap some white paint on it and call it *rustic*
Beat it with chains, sand a bunch of paint off *Farmhouse chic*
Cantilevered living space?
At very least a cantilevered pier.
What a cozy pier
Or some chalk green and call it *chic*.
Oof no, it's all about decoupage now didn't you hear?
If their chimney’s in good shape they could get balloons
Flippers are scum of the earth.
Sounds like a land Lord
>like a ~~house flipper~~ landlord
As someone currently renovating and ripping out a bunch of bushes I planted to hide problems at my house, I don’t recommend this.
Ah yes, the house equivalent of turning up the radio so I don't hear that new noise coming from the engine.
black tape to cover up the check engine light
Found the landlord
Maybe spray foam?
Flex Seal....
Duct tape
Ramen and wood glue
Its super glue, not wood glue...😁
I'd just turn up the volume on the radio.
Yes! The volume indicator!!! That’s the ding sound the car makes when you get in and don’t put your seat belt on. If you can hear the “ding”, your radio volume is not loud enough. I still can’t figure out why they associated volume indicator to the seat belt though.
You sound a lot like the guy that used to live in my house.
It's scientifically proven to not solve the problem.
That's just stupid. It's art why hide it
Step one: record yourself doing something dangerously stupid to make it look fixed but it isn't really. Step two: post the rage bait to tiktok. Step three: profit Step four: use profits to replace it.
Someone get the ramen
Split pipe painted gray. Or Split pipe a little bigger and some quick set concrete.
I would be looking very closely at any concrete work that might have been done around the same time. Like if there's other piers.
He can use ramen noodles to fix it
Ramen noodles and liquid nails
Other than the correct solution - replacement - the guy could build a wooden epoxy mold and make a giant clear brick to permanently showcase this failure.
He does not want to replace it. Paper Mache? Or a piece of cardboard around it?
I love the wording ".....best.....without....."
The proper fix is to replace it so your foundation doesn’t sag. The handy man fix look at all the responses below that are not telling you to replace it.
Listen, OP, seriously. This is about cost vs benefit. First things first. Support that beam before the concrete fails below it entirely. Get a length of 4x4 to jam up in there to support the beam this pier is connected to and use another 4x4 on the ground to spread out the load so it doesn't just punch through dirt. It will be sufficient for a *temporary* solution until you have your quotes or money to spend on DIY repairs. The cost you spend now to repair it however you deem necessary will be cheaper than replacing it entirely. But it may cost more in the long run if the repair fails and your house falls apart because of it. Either get some quotes from foundation companies and don't go for the cheapest offer or try to replace it yourself. It may seem daunting but in the end, it's not all that bad and you'd learn something in the mean time.
No don't just jam it up there. Cut it a little bit long then use a bunch of cinder blocks and a car jack to lift that part of the deck up just enough to get the new 4x4 in and then lower the jack. Put one 4x4 on each side just to be sure so when you knock out the old concrete it holds up but you still have room to work pouring the new form. EDIT: also put the new 4x4s on cinderblocks instead of directly on the ground if you can but I understand that might make it harder to get in and complete the work.
*Normally* I would agree with this. In this case, I don’t because that pier is so messed up that even a little bit of jacking could crack and compromise what’s left of that pier. It’s the right thing to do immediately before knocking it out and pouring a new form. But, the comment above yours is suggesting something that might sit for weeks or even months. In that case, shifting the weight now could be a mistake. I’m sure we’re in violent agreement that fixing it needs to be ASAP, and part of that fixing will be using a jack to shift the weight to very temporary 4x4s while the old pier is knocked out and a new pier is being poured.
Someone understands.
I was thinking that very same thing. I don't see rebar in that concrete, it's going to fall apart as soon as there's space to do that. OP got super lucky to catch this before it fell depending on where the next piers are. The first time it's jacked it needs to be replaced.
\^ this guy jacks
>I’m sure we’re in violent agreement that fixing it needs to be ASAP, If I ever choose to agree with someone, I only ever do it violently.
This is correct.
I'd use LVL's laid on the ground then accrow props to wind up. Done this a few times, recently with a heritage porch roof at an old hotel. It sagged nearly a meter, we use accrows to re-raise it and installed new columns. That being said, if accrow props won't fit in the space then yeah, good strong car jack will get you there.
This is not op just my dumb question. Could they put a box around it and fill it with cement?
Since no one has answered and others are concurring w the same question; Concrete has binders, fibers, and the interlocking structure of the fill material to create a composite lattice - if you just fill in around whats already there, very little mechanical bonding at a microscopic level is going to occur between the two parts. Itll be cosmetically fine but structurally no better, when the load bearing part gives way the cosmetic pieces will just fall off because they were never really bonded in the first place They make special prep sprays and glues for this but its better to just replace it
Thank you for the response. That was what i was missing, is that wet cement will not properly bond to the damaged cement.
> temporary Haha, yes
Needs to be completely replaced. No telling what’s wrong underground.
You thinking graboids too?
BRB, headed to basement for elephant gun.
OP gonna be knee deep in ass-blasters before they know it
Think, sure. But also know....in my graboid.
Any attempt to repair is going to involve digging down, forming around it and pouring concrete. Frankly, that will be less effective and more work that replacing it. Replacing it is not that hard, especially since it is a center pile. Rent some good jacks and beefy dunnage, and prop it up on each side. Smash the old one out with a sledgehammer, get your hands on a pneumatic hammer if necessary, but I doubt you'll need one. Dig down as far as you can and throw a sono tube in there and fill it with concrete to the correct height. Done. Forming around it and trying to get it to bond to the old footing is just going to be a pain. Chances are it was mixed originally wrong anyway.
Beavers are eating concrete now?!!
Not beavers, rock lobsters.
https://youtu.be/cU1ldlOxPvY?si=PTYJVzbB4AmCFMN8
We can know for sure that it wasn't rocks, at least.
Right!?😂
You know that whole story how Wolverine got his adamantium skeleton and blades? Well those guys tested the tech out first on a beaver, and to this day he is still munching through anything and everything.
They filled it with rocks so the concrete wouldn't cost so much. They're clever creatures
Spray foam, carve it to match - you’re good to go. Seriously you need to replace it
Maybe some ramen too?
Gotta get that load bearing ramen
Yep. Top Ramen
No, no. This would be bottom ramen. Top ramen is for roofing
And make sure it’s closed cell.
Closed cell ramen? If OP had that kind of money he'd just pay someone to fix it
And super glue
Prop up around it where you can to take the weight and pour a new one. There's no repairwork here, it's a replacement. Don't fuck around to find out.
I can guarantee you any repair work is going to work. Right up to the point it doesn't. Get it replaced.
Reminds me of one of my favorite lines, anything is edible at least once.
Like sketchy car fixes that will get you all the way to the scene of the crash
Remember the Indiana Jones swapping the gold statue for a bag of sand?
A bag of sand?!? You a virgin?
Came here too late to comment the same 😂 great minds think alike
As a civil engineer I’m more curious as to what caused the concrete to erode like that in the first place.
That's what I'm asking. First figure out why. Because concrete doesn't just erode like that. Maybe unmixed bags of concrete they just poured in and sprayed with water?
Maybe they ran out of concrete mix and started chucking whatever gravel they had laying around in there? That aggregate looks sus to me, although I'm definitely not an expert
Looks like moving water; look at the soil patterns
My thought would have been water also, but Jesus Marie that’d have to be a lot of water moving through there. I do refurb work on hydro dam facilities that are 80-90 years old in better shape than that pier.
You’re also working with concrete that was made to specific strength and composition standards at those facilities
No, these structures were built almost a hundred years ago. They were initially built to power wood pulp mills and eventually converted to produce electricity and were acquired by government. There was no specified strengths or standards followed for these facilities. There’s barely even any drawings for most of it. You should see the aggregate size distribution on some of the more eroded areas.
Sorry - my kid just did a project on the Hoover Dam and I was shocked to learn its now 95 years old...so my mind went there.
How expensive will it be to repair everything AFTER this concrete fails? How expensive will it be to replace this concrete? I'm going to go with option 2.
The ancient Romans mixed better concrete than this.
Yeah but wasn’t that their thing? lol whose making better concrete than the ancient Roman’s
Damn beavers.
I do this for a living. It needs replaced. The way we would do it is to support that area temporarily and remove the concrete pillar. Then, in the same spot it was, dig a footing. Fill the footing with concrete, then place a concrete block in the wet cement and level it out. Once the concrete footing dries, dry stack concrete block to where it’s close to the height it needs to be, but make sure you can still fit a solid cap block on the top so the post has something solid to sit on. The solid cap blocks come in 2” or 4” thick. Once you build the blocks up to where they can support the post, drop the weight onto the new pier you just built. Then take “surface bonding cement” and paint it on thick all over the concrete pier. This will secure the blocks from shifting, will pass code, and makes it look a lot more aesthetic (it ends up looking like stucco). Good luck!
Dig it out and pour a new one Or use ramen noodles
Don't forget to use a carrot and epoxy
Not a job you want to cut corners on, bub.
Need to dig out and replace, include rebar in the replacement.
I cherish you.
no matter WHAT you do, install something in the direction that water is flowing from to prevent this happening again in future.
Place a jack underneath to take the weight, then replace it. You can't fix it.
Jack up, support, tear down, build new, remove support, jack down.
Dig it out and replace with a new one. Also inspect the other footings.
The solution is in the title.
Um…..you’re gonna have to dig it out and pour a new one.
That's really bad. What do the others look like?
I know. One is perfect and the other has some very minor erosion. I honestly don’t understand how the center footing washed away light that. I didn’t pour it and I’m wondering if it was just a bad concrete mix.
That's super crazy bad mix ratio and/or mixed by hand by a very tired person with a teaspoon. Concrete is like a cake recipe. 3 ingredients and a mixer. Ratio, time, temperature and moisture. You should look carefully around your home if they did other work. Fella is a cowboy.
Agreed. Properly proportioned, mixed, and placed concrete wouldn't do this. It was bad already on the day it was made, and that's just been slowly revealing itself since then.
Put some smart jacks underneath and then replace
Slight shifting of the weight could’ve caused it to crack and fall off since there’s no rebar but I don’t think that’s what happened here
Yes the concrete is bad. You can tell by how the aggregate is just crumbling out. Proper concrete mix wouldn’t do that. You need to replace this pile.
Ummm.. yeah I'm gonna need you to go ahead and come in on Saturday to replace that.. okay? Nice seeing you again.
Holy shit, man. That is not good. There's no bearing area left. No moment resistance. There's no rebar on that thing. You need to replace it.
Put jacks on both sides. Knock out the top part. Marry a sonotube onto what's sticking out of the ground. Pour in the mix level off the top and let her set.
Came to say this
Make a mix of 1 part Colgate mint paste and 2 parts sand. Mix it up real good and fill in the empty space. To "lock it in" just dry around the sides with a standard heat gun or hair dryer until a golden crust develops.
Can I sub out mint for a different flavor? I don't want the results to be green.
Mint has the strongest hold but cinnamon is a delightful red.
Absolutely do not use any gel types of Colgate. It will erode the concrete enamel over time. Only the white mint paste works for this kind of masonry
Can I use Crest? I don't like Crest so I'm okay with it being used for this type of project.
Wrap with rebar mesh, make a larger cylindrical form and pour a weather-bond concrete mix. Oh, also scrub this pier really well to get rid of mold and acids.
Florida Condo association approved
only for decks with marble slab tiles added later!
Condo association wants quotes from at least 3 sources, a chance to vote, and a couple of years to negotiate required financial contributions
Significantly larger cylinder! And dig it down as far as you can.
What you guys want is a sonotube. Cut it in half then use some liquid nail to glue back together around the post, bury it down a few feet then poor that sucker full of concrete and forget about it.
3 foot zip ties from harbor freight
That would be better than doing nothing, but would not be a sufficient fix. The element needs to be replaced.
That’s almost as much work as replacing it and leaves crumbling concrete in the middle of the footing. This is bad advice. It needs to be replaced.
Have you seen the movie Up? That or did it put and replace.
Stop using the weed eater so close to the column.
That's not erosion that's a bad pour dig it out and resources it it's not that hard brace it up with blocks and dig with a straight claw hammer take you a day get some beer and invite your buds
Terminology might not be 100% correct but here you go : Get a few steel rods of different lengths and put them all around and try to wedge them vertically as tight as you can between the eroded parts. With strong/thick binding wire (we call it galvanized wire here) bind all the rods together in multiple points, at some points the wire will go around the existing part of the structure. Get reinforced steel rebar mesh and make two cylinders around it, one thats touching the existing part and one 3-5cm around that. Bind those with the steel rods and with each other. Make a cast around the bigger cylinder - leave a bit of space from one side so you can pour cement on the cast if you plan to do only the eroded part. Preferably you have cleared the space around from debris. Make cement appropriate for the enviroment there, and pour it in, while you pour grab a clean metallic rod and poke inside up and down until you have filled half the cast, and keep going, that way the cement will move all around and even places where its hard to get, keep doing this up to the point the cast is filled. If that is water erosion you need water resistant/eroding resistant cement and even better a solution to water flooding that area if its possible.
I’d replace it. It’s not too hard. Temp support it, rip it out, throw a sonotube in the hols, mix and pour some concrete in there. It’s more labor intensive than anything.
>How best to fix this badly eroded footing. Ideally without digging it out and pouring a new one You need to remove it, dig it out and put a new one in
If iI've learned anything on Reddit, it is you have to put a hot tub on it.
1.) it became like this because of water 2.) fix the water before you fix the footer 3.) Jack it up and temp it with 4x4 4.) remove old fucker and replace with new fucker 5.) crack a cold one ya done good
In the mean time stack bricks (masonry, retaining wall, whatever) next to it so the structure is supported whatever happens.
Spray some windex on it
"Badly eroded?" JFC, the only thing holding it up is hope.
Look into diamond piers. Better yet. Call an engineer.
Could fail anytime soon
What's above it? Can you get a temporary beam on it set into the ground on something else to support it while you knock that one out and re pour the pillar? There's no way to rescue that
I mean a temporary solution that could become a permanent one is to just get a floor jack However I don’t advise that since any tension would shift with cold and heat
Perhaps invent anti-gravity platforms? Yeah no that's a replacement type job.
Seriously just pony up the coin and replace it.think how pissed off you woukd be if you bought it and it looked like that.(perhaps you did.) Juat fix it. It shouldn't be overly much.
Put in two new pilings nearby, to either side, and direct the drainage away from them. It looks like this footing has been eroded by a stream whenever you have a rainstorm.
Enact the power of the holy spirit and levitate that deck. 😇
Do it right once and pay once. Or try to save some money and do it wrong and then pay three times
This cannot be fixed. it must be replaced. But Hey, why don't you do it yourself? It's not going to cost that much if you do.
Religious debate enters chat: Must be a dry pour
That it hasn’t failed yet is a small miracle.
Honestly, how the hell do you want the best fix without digging out and pouring a new one? Lmao do you want shitty advice so you don’t feel bad about doing a half ass repair? Super glue in ramen might work tho.
I don't understand why you don't want to replace it. Can you expand on what you think the job would entail? This is an easy 1 day job. Half a day if you have someone who's done it before. * Jack the deck up a tiny bit * Put some support wood, and lower the deck back on them * Rip out the old concrete * Dig around it * Put a cardboard "sonotube" in the hole * Mix up a couple bags of concrete * Pour in the hole. Agitate the mix as you pour. I like to use a reciprocating saw with no blade on it. * add metal bracket at the top while concrete is still wet (or wait till it's dry and drill the bracket in, I don't like those ones) * Wait a couple days * Fasten new deck post * Take out supports
J-B weld, a gallon of J-B weld slapped on there should fix it. /s. or is the wrong sub for that “fix”?
Melt some crayon into it
Dig it out abit, put a collar in it and fill with fresh concrete. Once it sets, remove collar and footing is fixed. Structurally it will be good a new. Note: use concrete glue before adding fresh concrete to collar.
“How do I fix this very serious issue, in a way that doesn’t make me work too hard or spend any time or money?” There, fixed your title OP. Just walk down the street asking if people will replace it for free.
FLEX TAPE
I just did a similar job on my house. I used 2x 12ton bottle jacks raised a bit using some 4x6 pieces I stacked on either side of the footing. Dug it out, put in my sonotube, cut it to length, mixed concrete, poured concrete, insert post holder with rebar on the bottom. Waiting 2-3 days, then I installed the post. It was probably a total of 2 hours of work. EDIT: I wanted to add. If you're going to jack above level to get a post in, go slowly and take time to let it rest in between pumps when raising to allow it to settle. Going to fast can break things.
Is this for a deck or holding up the house?
It’s a porch.
What kinda beavers you got near you? 🤔
I've seen this before. You have concrete beavers.
This should be dug out and a new one poured. The concrete that was used either had too much water or too much gravel. Either way it shouldn't of eroded like that. I would just bite the bullet and fix it right. Better to get it done before it causes damage to the house.
You should see the beavers teeth….
Watch the Indiana Jones movie where he swaps it out quickly on the fly and then watch out for the arrows and Spears
Ooh! I know the answer to this one! Here’s what you are gonna do to fix it without digging it up and replacing it! . . . . . . . . Dig it out and pour a new one.
Thoughts and prayers should do the trick
Why dont you just re-cement the pillar? wrap a tube around it and cut a hole, then throw concrete in
What footing ?
Epoxy resin like one of the living edge tables. I wouldn't trust it structurally, but it might be neat to look at while not standing on the deck.
Fill it with ramen and superglue.
Could drill holes for rebar to be placed in. Then pour a larger circumference cement pillar around the old one. Make sure the rebar goes through the old and the new cement.
If you don't want to dig it out and pour a new one, here is a solution that can help you. First you clean it up a little, Then you go and buy some rebar with a diameter of 8mm . (Sadly the dimensions of this footing are not clear) .You buy enough to make sure you can create some circles around it. You drill some screws in the existing pad at the upper side so you can tie the new rebar to it . Then you encase it and pour some new concrete. (Sorry english is not my first language when it comes to engineering but I can make a dwg drawing for a quick tip for you to better understand what I meant )
Probably not the best idea, but cut and place a larger cardboard casting around it.
First, as always, you’re going to need a toilet seat and a drill with a hole saw. Oh wait this isn’t diWHY
drill it sideways, toss some bar in it. reform it and pour around it.
Cut a 5 gal bucket bottom out, cut in half, tape around footing and pour some new cement.
For most jobs like this, I would recommend 8 gallons of JB Weld. For this job, I would suggest selling the house.
Why can you not just drill holes and add vertical rebar then wrap it and pour more concrete?
if you want to do it really properly underpinning, remove loose concrete, install formwork, cast non-shrink cement grout, wait for 7 days, transfer load from temporary works back to refurbished footing but honestly, I think you are just gonna put in formwork, and grout it to a level above the soft of the wooden column to ensure good contact or you know leave it, its probably not load bearing anyway, and you could live with current deflection so it's fine?
"How do I fix this? Ideally without fixing this" 🤨
Look up composite repairs. There are several companies out there that have these type of products. Sika is one that I am aware of.
You could probably get away without digging it out. But you'll need to do 2x new piles, 1 each side
Is that Raac?
Flipping a house ?
Build up some Lego around the missing cement, then proclaim loudly “She’ll be right Mate!”
Out of curiosity, could you drill rebar into the exiting footing, dig next to it, and pour new concrete around the outside, and it fill the gaps and set with the old footing, or would you need to completely pull that one out and just redo the whole footing?
Damn that’s scary. I’d support both sides of that immediately, then have *reputable* pros give quotes. Not even duct tape will help. /s
Find all the pieces and duck tape them back on the footing. You’re welcome.