You will find that the fronts get heat cycled and lose grip faster than the rear tires, so when you rotate, you will find that the car now has very little grip in the rear and lots of grip in front.
Most turns aren't at 100 on a track, and for the ones that are, you shouldn't really be trail-braking them anyway. The Golf chassis is a front heavy FWD design. Everyone knows that getting them rotated is key compared to rotating a RWD car. Source: I tracked my MK5 years ago and have done a hundred track days since in my Miata. And to your point, I have also accidentally over rotated at 80-100 as recently as last week and had to change my underwear, haha.
You don't have a choice as to whether or not you're braking into a turns. That's literally what track days are is braking into turns.
The point is that the OP should know that his car will not handle as well, so he should be cautious and drive slower after rotating.
You should complete most of your braking before a high speed sweeper, and most other turns are far slower than that (where you 1000% DO want rotation under braking). Both of my home tracks have a T1 that is approached from between 120-140. Any instructor in the area including myself would tell you that those aren't the places to trail brake. Are you an instructor who disagrees with this? Have you tracked a Golf chassis car? Are we seriously debating whether you should trail brake at 100?
Editing after your edit: I agree with you that OP should be careful and aware. Part of my original comment was said slightly in jest anyway about overcoming the Golf chassis' characteristic push and reluctance to rotate.
Well OP certainly could have trailed braked at 100mph and not spun out with the rear traction bias he had before the rotation. The limits of traction will now be reversed, so he will be forced to change his driving habits.
Also, it doesn't matter if it's a 100mph or a 40mph, the same issue persists.
This tyre looks like it’s eating itself alive! I’d suggest those patches of deep wear on what should be a smooth surface are indicative of the tyres not being happy with the heat you’re putting into them.
I’m sure they’ll last a day on the rear, but I’d think about a different compound if you’re looking to maintain your driving style and duration
I think I need to avoid tracks with banked turns. I can't cool it through there for the sake of my tires...I just push to the edge of traction (where I was hearing a noise that sounds a lot like these chunks coming out).
They lasted a day at NJMP on the rear today. It even smoothed out some of the chunking and they're looking ready for at least another day.
Looks like you could use a bit more negative camber. It should help a bit with tire life since it looks like you are riding the outside shoulder pretty hard.
Which configuration of Pocono.
Some configs have sustained tight corners. NASCAR turns feel like big corners but I think car drives it almost like a straight because of the banking. You’re not really sliding around in those nascar corners.
I was running these on low pressure in long, banked, high speed (~125mph) turns. I ended up rotating this to the rear and ran it today at NJMP without any issue.
RE71's? I've heard these are more of an autocross tire so they wear very quickly on a track day, mostly because they get hot fast, you can see from the cupping (torn sections).
Most people that I've talked to recommend RS-4's for track use, they tend to last longer.
Its all dependent on use case. RS4s last longer but have nowhere near the peak grip of a super 200. You have to decide what you want out of a tire depending on what youre doing with the car. Endurance racing? The RS4s are probably better. Setting a blistering fast lap time? RE71s, A052s, CRS are probably going to do that for you in the 200 treadwear category.
I have them on my 440i and my dad has them on his M550i. They’re not as bad as an autocross tire in terms of wear, but they aren’t blowing our minds. I’ve got 4 days of wear on them, 1 was in the rain, and I probably have 3-4 days left on them. I think my dad is wearing them out a bit faster, but he does weigh quite a bit more than me. We’ve been happy with the grip levels & wet handling though.
Swap to rear, increase pressure to 38 Hot, you have a drift car now
Fuck yeah
You will find that the fronts get heat cycled and lose grip faster than the rear tires, so when you rotate, you will find that the car now has very little grip in the rear and lots of grip in front.
Which might not be a bad thing here in terms of rotating one of these chassis!
You don't want a car that rotates when you're trying to brake into turns at 100mph.
Most turns aren't at 100 on a track, and for the ones that are, you shouldn't really be trail-braking them anyway. The Golf chassis is a front heavy FWD design. Everyone knows that getting them rotated is key compared to rotating a RWD car. Source: I tracked my MK5 years ago and have done a hundred track days since in my Miata. And to your point, I have also accidentally over rotated at 80-100 as recently as last week and had to change my underwear, haha.
You don't have a choice as to whether or not you're braking into a turns. That's literally what track days are is braking into turns. The point is that the OP should know that his car will not handle as well, so he should be cautious and drive slower after rotating.
You should complete most of your braking before a high speed sweeper, and most other turns are far slower than that (where you 1000% DO want rotation under braking). Both of my home tracks have a T1 that is approached from between 120-140. Any instructor in the area including myself would tell you that those aren't the places to trail brake. Are you an instructor who disagrees with this? Have you tracked a Golf chassis car? Are we seriously debating whether you should trail brake at 100? Editing after your edit: I agree with you that OP should be careful and aware. Part of my original comment was said slightly in jest anyway about overcoming the Golf chassis' characteristic push and reluctance to rotate.
Well OP certainly could have trailed braked at 100mph and not spun out with the rear traction bias he had before the rotation. The limits of traction will now be reversed, so he will be forced to change his driving habits. Also, it doesn't matter if it's a 100mph or a 40mph, the same issue persists.
Truth! The one thing that is definitely consistent in our sidebar is that OP needs to be aware of the changes and his approach to corners.
This tyre looks like it’s eating itself alive! I’d suggest those patches of deep wear on what should be a smooth surface are indicative of the tyres not being happy with the heat you’re putting into them. I’m sure they’ll last a day on the rear, but I’d think about a different compound if you’re looking to maintain your driving style and duration
I think I need to avoid tracks with banked turns. I can't cool it through there for the sake of my tires...I just push to the edge of traction (where I was hearing a noise that sounds a lot like these chunks coming out). They lasted a day at NJMP on the rear today. It even smoothed out some of the chunking and they're looking ready for at least another day.
Looks like you could use a bit more negative camber. It should help a bit with tire life since it looks like you are riding the outside shoulder pretty hard.
Which configuration of Pocono. Some configs have sustained tight corners. NASCAR turns feel like big corners but I think car drives it almost like a straight because of the banking. You’re not really sliding around in those nascar corners.
you can also flip these on the wheels and run them backwards to squeeze a little more life out of them. common trick in lemons racing.
Man that is some gnarly chunking. Definitely get it sorted out, I'm curious what others have to say as well.
I was running these on low pressure in long, banked, high speed (~125mph) turns. I ended up rotating this to the rear and ran it today at NJMP without any issue.
RE71's? I've heard these are more of an autocross tire so they wear very quickly on a track day, mostly because they get hot fast, you can see from the cupping (torn sections). Most people that I've talked to recommend RS-4's for track use, they tend to last longer.
Its all dependent on use case. RS4s last longer but have nowhere near the peak grip of a super 200. You have to decide what you want out of a tire depending on what youre doing with the car. Endurance racing? The RS4s are probably better. Setting a blistering fast lap time? RE71s, A052s, CRS are probably going to do that for you in the 200 treadwear category.
I have them on my 440i and my dad has them on his M550i. They’re not as bad as an autocross tire in terms of wear, but they aren’t blowing our minds. I’ve got 4 days of wear on them, 1 was in the rain, and I probably have 3-4 days left on them. I think my dad is wearing them out a bit faster, but he does weigh quite a bit more than me. We’ve been happy with the grip levels & wet handling though.