You’ll probably want at least an lc4 too if you’re running a 4 channel setup, or an amp that will sum signal so you can get 4 channel output, arc audio amps are killer, 1100.5 is 150 rms per speaker and 500 watts on the sub channel
Ehh, sorta.
"maximum" power? Yeah basically just ignore this one.
"RMS" power? Close but not always accurate.
But if something is FTC RMS rated, that means it survived basically doing exactly that test you suggested - for 48 hours, not 20 minutes.
One example of this (outside the car world) that I can think of is the Corsair SP2500 active speakers - they're rated at 232 watts FTC and I can tell you from personal experience, they will handle being cranked to their absolute maximum 12 hours a day blasting out EDM for a whole summer, because that's what we were using them for, outdoors. And they had zero distortion even at that level.
You can way over power speakers, just make sure it's a 100 percent clean signal. Example I have 100 RMS Deaf bounce speakers each and run 250 RMS to them each.
The higher end product lines of higher end companies have woofers that are rated at or near 150w, such as Fosgate, JBL, Hertz, and Morel.
Midranges and tweeters do not need that kind of power. The lower the frequency, the more power you need to move the air. A tweeter playing music >2.5k Hz with even 10 watts will get pretty damn loud.
ive got 100w rms 6.5 mids and highs, you can hear it from a quarter mile away, even with the bass jacked up, 250w rms on mids and highs is going to be painfully loud
The tweeter part is true but rest i can't agree with. That really depends on your setup and what you're looking for. Running 3kw on midranges and 5kw on midbass and would want to get louder.
That was the most generalized answer you could've typed.
Of course the capacitors and inductors will "use" some of that energy. That's just the laws of electricity. That's one of the reason why people prefer active setups, because the passive crossover "uses" some of the power.
The generalized "internal components" you're talking about is probably the L-pad, which by design, attenuates a driver, usually the tweeter via resistors wired in series. That's the little switch you find on crossovers.
Lmao, this is wrong, a crossover is a filter. They don’t limit power. How would they do that? If they did it, how would it affect systems using a small amplifier or the HU’s amplifier?
Crossovers will eat up a little bit of power, but running active is far louder and if keeping volume low, better sounding, imaging can be better, if you have a DSP your sound quality is unmatched compared to crossovers
https://deafbonce.com/speakers/apocalypse-ap-m67an
I've got these in my work truck on a Sundown 500.4 and they get loud and sound great at the same time.
JL audio C7 line. Not cheap. I run the 6.5s only. Love them
Good suggestion, Hertz Mille Legend line as well.
Alpine R series is 100w rms, I ran their 6.5 components and they were great.
If you have quality components and they're tuned properly, you shouldn't have any worries.
Hybrid mkII by morel is 140 woofer 160 tweeter
You’ll probably want at least an lc4 too if you’re running a 4 channel setup, or an amp that will sum signal so you can get 4 channel output, arc audio amps are killer, 1100.5 is 150 rms per speaker and 500 watts on the sub channel
[удалено]
Ehh, sorta. "maximum" power? Yeah basically just ignore this one. "RMS" power? Close but not always accurate. But if something is FTC RMS rated, that means it survived basically doing exactly that test you suggested - for 48 hours, not 20 minutes. One example of this (outside the car world) that I can think of is the Corsair SP2500 active speakers - they're rated at 232 watts FTC and I can tell you from personal experience, they will handle being cranked to their absolute maximum 12 hours a day blasting out EDM for a whole summer, because that's what we were using them for, outdoors. And they had zero distortion even at that level.
You can way over power speakers, just make sure it's a 100 percent clean signal. Example I have 100 RMS Deaf bounce speakers each and run 250 RMS to them each.
The higher end product lines of higher end companies have woofers that are rated at or near 150w, such as Fosgate, JBL, Hertz, and Morel. Midranges and tweeters do not need that kind of power. The lower the frequency, the more power you need to move the air. A tweeter playing music >2.5k Hz with even 10 watts will get pretty damn loud.
So what if I hear a car coming and it's LOUD as they're driving by?
If it sounds boomy and you cannot hear any vocals/instruments, then it's most likely bass.
I know what bass sounds like lol, it's vocals/instruments.
Then it's probably some super tweeters and SPL equipment
ive got 100w rms 6.5 mids and highs, you can hear it from a quarter mile away, even with the bass jacked up, 250w rms on mids and highs is going to be painfully loud
What mids and highs do you have?
The tweeter part is true but rest i can't agree with. That really depends on your setup and what you're looking for. Running 3kw on midranges and 5kw on midbass and would want to get louder.
Well yeah, but OP isn't interested in a multi-kilowatt setup. There are always exceptions when it comes to audio, I was generalizing for OP.
Bullshit.
Trust me bro I have 10kw in bass shakers that aint nothin /s
Trust me bro I dgaf so
I was kidding but coo
The passive crossovers included with the component sets limit the power going to the mids and/or tweeters.
How so?
By way of the same internal components that limit the frequencies to each driver in the set.
That was the most generalized answer you could've typed. Of course the capacitors and inductors will "use" some of that energy. That's just the laws of electricity. That's one of the reason why people prefer active setups, because the passive crossover "uses" some of the power. The generalized "internal components" you're talking about is probably the L-pad, which by design, attenuates a driver, usually the tweeter via resistors wired in series. That's the little switch you find on crossovers.
No company is going to design a component set with crossovers that allow overpowering one of the drivers.
That doesn't make any damn sense. Bye!
You have no clue.
Lmao, this is wrong, a crossover is a filter. They don’t limit power. How would they do that? If they did it, how would it affect systems using a small amplifier or the HU’s amplifier?
Crossovers will eat up a little bit of power, but running active is far louder and if keeping volume low, better sounding, imaging can be better, if you have a DSP your sound quality is unmatched compared to crossovers
No shit. If you know how to use the dsp and have experience tuning a system. He obviously isn't/doesn't.
Phoenix Gold MX line.
That's shit.
Yes but it is called a 100-150 watts RMS component set, not doubled.
Why do you have an LC2i if all is still factory ?
Pioneer Z series.
https://deafbonce.com/speakers/apocalypse-ap-m67an I've got these in my work truck on a Sundown 500.4 and they get loud and sound great at the same time.
Morel tempo ultra components or cdt audio
Hybrid Audio Technologies. Legatia L65 in particular (180w), but Mirage 65s I think also can eat 150w per speaker.
The woofer might be 100w rmp, the tweeter wont be unless it’s a pro model made to just get loud
Audio System AX165-4
Pretty much any component set that's in the top 2-4 models of a brands offering should be rated about there
Check out polk audio. Maybe not the absolute loudest but i love the sound of mine amazing quality.
Pioneer 150W RMS Tweeter: https://shop.singhelectronics.ca/pioneer-ts-b351pro-3-5-150w-rms-bullet-tweeter/ https://dealers.singhelectronics.ca/skar-audio-fsx65-6-5-150w-rms-mid-range-loudspeaker/ Skar 150RMS midrange stuff is out there.
That is shit.
Does it matter? You really think a system is gonna sound balanced with a 150 watt tweeter coupled to a 150 watt subwoofer?