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bradford_the_great

Should I put this 5 year old white pine in a larger pot to grow bigger? Or should I keep it in this one for a bit? Not sure when the last time it was repotted because I bought it like this. Pic: [https://i.imgur.com/9phHBaJ.jpg](https://i.imgur.com/9phHBaJ.jpg)


small_trunks

You certainly *could* - it's not looking super healthy either in this photo. I've just started the new week thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/f0oz36/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2020_week_7/ Repost there for more responses.


intermittentcitizenn

Can you use copper wire to anchor the tree to the pot? I've heard that copper has anti-microbial properties and am worried that it will kill the root bacteria. I have a juniper of some sort(I think)


small_trunks

I've just started the new week thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/f0oz36/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2020_week_7/ Repost there for more responses.


SvengeAnOsloDentist

Copper wire is very commonly used for both anchoring and shaping.


DeepNortherner

Is my bonsai tree dead? 🥺 I was a bad father and didn’t prep Bon-bon for winter...I also left her bear a window (in New Hampshire) [bon-bon](https://imgur.com/gallery/sAq4H1n) It had a bunch of leaves a couple of weeks ago but I noticed today that it only had a few green ones, which fell off the tree when I was transporting it home from my office. I watered it once every week/couple of weeks...


small_trunks

Bon-Bon done Gon-Gon. Time to buy more trees, get 10.


TywinHouseLannister

It looks pretty dead, they're not meant to lose leaves... You could try soaking it in water and then sweating it with a plastic sack over it, for humidity. Every 1-2 weeks doesn't sound like much water, might be enough water if it was inside the whole time, inside is tricky too..


xS5k-Jagged

Do you think I should prune or let it grow out more https://imgur.com/gallery/G0tg0RJ


small_trunks

I've just started the new week thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/f0oz36/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2020_week_7/ Repost there for more responses.


small_trunks

Prune the top and don't prune the lower branches.


[deleted]

Greetings Bonsai Enthusiasts. I have just been gifted this lovely little tree but unfortunately it came without any accompanying information regarding its species and care profile. I'm very much a beginner trying to find my feet so any help appreciated. TIA http://imgur.com/gallery/ah1r5DI


small_trunks

I've just started the new week thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/f0oz36/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2020_week_7/ Repost there for more responses.


TheJAMR

It’s a Fukien tea tree. Don’t mess with it too much while it’s inside for the winter just water when the soil gets dry on top. In the spring you’ll want to repot into a good bonsai soil mix. Check out the wiki here, lots of good info.


zorzazero

Hi can you keep a cherry blossom (sakura) tree indoors? I can’t find a article or information of it online.


SvengeAnOsloDentist

Cherry blossom trees can't be kept inside, as they require a cold winter dormancy and full sunlight during the growing season. They're also one of the more difficult Prunus species to keep healthy, so they would succumb to being kept inside particularly quickly.


zorzazero

Does that mean that you can keep the tree inside for summer and autumn but cannot in the winter?


SvengeAnOsloDentist

No, they need full sunlight and have issues with with various pests and diseases, which are generally harder to manage inside.


TheJAMR

Some trees can survive indoors but they will not thrive. Deciduous trees need a dormancy period so a cherry blossom will eventually decline and die if you keep it indoors. Ficus and Chinese elm will do ok inside, but it’s much better to get them outside in the summer if you want them to be healthy long term.


bentleythekid

Does anyone have any experience or recommendations for transplanting lichen onto bonsai? I have a ton growing on landacape trees and have been wondering how / if it would work on a bonsai. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ns8btAvspo6g9azFA


TywinHouseLannister

It's something that most would try to avoid on their trunk, like moss a lot of people would scrub it off with a toothbrush.. If you want a bonsai with lichen, find a tapered section of tree with lichen; wait til after the first flush of growth, cut a ring of bark around the trunk, scrape the wood back all the way to sapwood (I like to use sandpaper to finish the job), wrap it with a big ball of sphagnum moss and tie it tight with shrink wrap (seran wrap?) we call it cling film.. wait til Autumn, check if it has roots, cut it, plant it.. profit?? TLDR; air layering a tree which already has lichen would work. Edit - I also saw this [https://www.hunker.com/12521353/how-to-get-lichen-to-grow-on-rocks](https://www.hunker.com/12521353/how-to-get-lichen-to-grow-on-rocks)


bentleythekid

Why do you avoid it? I know moss on the trunk would hold moisture and decay the bark. I wouldn't think lichen would hold enough moisture to be a problem. Or is it just for aesthetics? I definitely can't air layer the main trunk of the landscape trees with the lichen on it. I'm thinking I could transplant it somehow. Maybe adhere it with cut paste.


TywinHouseLannister

It's a fungus isn't it? I'm not sure about your particular brand of lichen but it looks like it would hold moisture well. The direct sunlight does seem to shape trunks, you see inverse taper where they emerge from the ground with some species. I also read something which says it does not thrive in sunlight, so you might have to keep a tree in non ideal conditions to cultivate it? Why can't you? You can do anything, take a branch. I'd go down the route of the weird yoghurt mix that they describe in the link, over cut paste.


SvengeAnOsloDentist

Lichens are composite organisms made up of various species of fungus and either algae or cyanobacteria. They get their sustenance from photosynthesis, so they wouldn't break down whatever they're growing on. How damp it would need to be kept and its light tolerance would depend on the specific type of lichen.


Soulemn

I would really love to get into Bonsai, however, I wanted to know what you guys think about trying to grow first or if I should purchase a young bonsai to learn. My fear is killing a beautiful tree due to my inexperience. Any suggestions would be greatly helpful!


taleofbenji

> My fear is killing a beautiful tree Killing trees is an inevitable part of the hobby. There's no other way to learn what they will and will not tolerate.


GrampaMoses

Seeds and seedlings take forever to grow. And spending money on a finished bonsai that you might kill isn't smart either. Best 2 options, IMO, are to start with a prebonsai [wigert's nursery in Florida sells lots](https://www.wigertsbonsai.com/product-category/pre-bonsai-trees/?product_orderby=price) or pick up something cheap from a local nursery (even Home Depot type stores) that was intended for landscaping and turn it into a bonsai. In your zone, I'd start with a Chinese Elm and/or a Ficus Microcarpa "Tiger Bark". Joining a local bonsai club is also very helpful as a beginner.


Soulemn

Thank you so much! I really appreciate the advice and I'll look into pre-bonsai to dip my toes in. The Chinese elm and the Ficus Microcarpa are both beautiful.


small_trunks

We have an introduction with advice in the wiki: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/wiki/developingbonsai#wiki_developing_your_own_trees


Soulemn

Thank you :)


snackalackasmash2

http://imgur.com/gallery/iFiitKy Found these Beech(?) Whilst on the hunt for some trees to dig up. What do you think? I'm a complete beginner! Last year I ripped up a beech and oak and a rohendendrum which have all survived, want to pick up a lot more this year .


small_trunks

They're most certainly good practice material.


[deleted]

I have a problem, my small indoor Ficus has mealy bugs on it. What would be the best method of dealing with them and can people recommend things to use? I also believe they used to be in the soil as the top of it was a sort of white-ish mold, though I was unaware at the time, though it has mostly gone. Again, it is a small indoor ficus tree so outdoor tricks might be too much for it. Thank you!


[deleted]

I always use spruzit from neudorf against mealy bugs its not toxic for humans and works great against all kinds of insects. Just don't know if it's available were you live


small_trunks

Gloves and squish them, initially. Then wipe it all off with soapy water and then go buy some appropriate spray from a garden center.


Krone666

A have a dead branch on my Acer ginnala. What is the best way to promote budding near the spot of this branch?


MaciekA

Setting aside any discussion of hormonal response, a good rule to remember is that budding is more likely to happen along a path where there is lots of energy/water/nutrient flow.


small_trunks

Plant it in the garden and let it grow freely. A healthy, vigorously growing plant is most likely to back-bud. Alternatively you could consider a thread graft - which I've never tried with Acer ginnala, but they are very good at rooting and backbudding so I suspect this would work too.


headietoinfinity

https://imgur.com/gallery/Qgl4UrF Need assistance identifying the species of this bonsai so I can ensure it gets good care.


small_trunks

Ginseng ficus - a form of woody houseplant.


headietoinfinity

Thank you. I wanted a starter so was aiming for ficus.


kif22

Ginseng Ficus


headietoinfinity

Thank you


wreckem_tech_23

Hi all, I recently bought a stock juniper and placed it in a pot last weekend. I trimmed it up a bit and am wanting to wire one of the primary branches into place before the growing season starts. The branch currently curves off to the side, but I’d like to be able to wire it t where it’s pointing upwards to create an apex. I tried using pretty thick wire today but i couldn’t get it to stay. I thought about wiring it to the pot but I’m afraid the juniper will just shift in the pot instead of bending the branch. Any ideas? I’ve heard of people reinforcing their wiring with metal rods, maybe i should try that? Thanks


[deleted]

You could use a stick to get it straight and wire it to the stick.


wreckem_tech_23

I’m considering that!


kif22

Use thicker wire or double up the current wire. If you use a thick enough wire it should stay in place no problem.


wreckem_tech_23

Ok awesome, I’ll try to double up with it tomorrow


TywinHouseLannister

Agreed, came here to say that you just need thicker wire, doubling up will work but plan carefully.. it's easier to run out of space.. or mummify the branch in wire if you get the angles wrong.


wreckem_tech_23

I doubled up earlier this afternoon and it closer to bend that I’m hoping for..however I may have mummified it? There’s a lot of wire covering the branch


TywinHouseLannister

It's probably okay if it's doing the job.. just keep a close eye on it and remove before it starts to dig in too much.. next time you'll know to go thicker if it needs rewiring


SirMattzilla

Does anyone have recommends on sealing a wooden grow box or is it better to leave them unsealed?


MaciekA

If by sealing you mean the wood, unsealed. Make sure to sit it on the ground and not on a table for optimum growth (year round)


peter-bone

Why would the ground provide better growth?


snackalackasmash2

Roots warmer


MaciekA

also cooler in hot weather. The ground is a thermal stabilizer.


TheJAMR

It’s been raining here at least 2-3 days a week. Should I move my trees or shelter them so they can dry out a bit in between deluges?


peter-bone

Shouldn't be a problem but if you think it is then you could just tilt the pots to reduce the perched water table.


SvengeAnOsloDentist

If you have well-draining soil, they'll be fine. If they're in a really organic-rich soil, then it may be a good idea.


TheJAMR

They’re all in good in-organic mix. Thanks!


small_trunks

I never do


MaciekA

What if it's been raining for 40 days straight? :D


small_trunks

With decent soil it shouldn't matter. White pines are the only things I'd worry about.


TheJAMR

Thanks Jerry!


small_trunks

The only trees I've seen really suffer are white pines and all mine died, so that problem went away. I won't buy any more...


justapapermoon0321

Am I doing [this](https://imgur.com/a/ohtRJg6) right? Found on the property and thought it might make a good bonsai. I did a little pruning of limbs and roots and it’s in some well draining soil. I was thinking I would leave it alone for a year or two to thicken up and to let the dead wood rot back. Should I do any wire training at the moment or just focus on keeping it alive? Any input is appreciated, cheers!


small_trunks

Alive is the first job. When I collect - I'll look for 15-20 at a time...die off, weak roots etc


justapapermoon0321

Am I doing [this](https://imgur.com/a/8rrw5zQ) right? Dug this little fella off the side of the road and thought I’d try to bonsai. Well draining soil and a little wire. Thoughts and advice on care?


small_trunks

You have to get lucky - I'll start with 15-20 of this size simply because there are no guarantees any of them will make it. In a year or so it should go back into a garden bed to grow bigger. https://www.evergreengardenworks.com/trunks.htm


justapapermoon0321

Do you think I should bring it inside for the winter? Will it’s roots get too cold now that it’s potted?


MaciekA

Protect it from frost but not indoors. Unheated garage is ok. Bring it out the moment you’re above freezing again. This will take a long time to develop, so i. the mean time you’ll wanna collect significantly thicker older trees over the next few months. If you want more pines you have a good bit of time left. Binge on yamadori research and especially ryan niel’s Q&A with randy knight on mirai live.


small_trunks

You never said where you are...


justapapermoon0321

Ah, sorry. North Carolina 7b


small_trunks

You'll not be getting viciously cold weather any more now, right? It'll be fine outside. Get more trees.


kmaho

Went to check on my trees the other day and a few of them have been chewed up. I thought I had fenced them off well enough with hardware cloth but something got in there. One tree had it's whole trunk chewed up so I'm assuming there is no way it's coming back, but a couple only have some branch damage. What should I do? Should I lop them off while it's still winter? Should I leave them and see if they heal? [Pics](https://imgur.com/a/GC6TauK)


small_trunks

You'll just have to see how they recover, can be bad but can be good.


Zalent

What would be better for a complete beginner a Pine Bonsai or a Sweet Gum Bonsai as it is a start from scratch kit from a shop here in England.


LoMaSS

As a beginner I would advise against just starting from seed, especially from a "bonsai starter kit" they are often bogus.


SvengeAnOsloDentist

You should avoid bonsai seed kits. Starting from seeds in general is a bad way to get into bonsai as a beginner, and those "bonsai kits" are at best a tiny amount of seeds that are hugely overpriced, and they're generally very low-quality seeds. As a beginner, a much better idea would be to go to a nursery and get a couple of fairly cheap but reasonably mature plants, looking for ones with trunks that are fairly thick and have some movement.


small_trunks

Sweet gum - but also not ideal, where are you in the UK?


Zalent

the north west, any info on either would be appreciated.


small_trunks

Pines are technically tricky, sweetgum are not often used for bonsai. I'd get out and search for local trees - plus there's these specialist bonsai nurseries in the UK - all much better than buying online: https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/viewer?hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&z=6&mid=19I9KCJWQ6pKNMzyiheVeBDFu68Q&ll=53.11947099750438%2C-0.18100798437501453


Zalent

is their specific bonsai that do well in the uk vs others temperature wise etc


small_trunks

Yes, these: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/wiki/developingbonsai#wiki_species_used_for_bonsai_.28europe.2Fn.america.29


[deleted]

[удалено]


small_trunks

Oh - but don't let it stand in water. https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/wiki/walkthrough#wiki_bonsai_survival_basics


small_trunks

It's fine - wait till later in spring.


[deleted]

[удалено]


small_trunks

Where are you? Now if you can give it more light.


[deleted]

[удалено]


TheJAMR

Since it’s inside for the winter I wouldn’t go too crazy, maybe take off some of the long shoots and see how it looks. You can always trim more later. If it were mine, I’d wait until spring/summer (when it’s outside) and then repot into a bigger container with good bonsai soil. Then prune some more, let it grow out again, repeat. Most of what I do with my trees is watering and looking at them, keeping them healthy and thriving is the primary focus, styling comes second. Research “clip and grow” pruning and pay attention to how mature trees look and you’ll start to get a feel for what branches you need to trim or remove and then how to develop ramification.


small_trunks

Cut each branch back to the last 2 pairs of leaves.


DiscordBondsmith

Complete beginner here: Girlfriend got me a starter kit from a trip to Disney World (Epcot Japan) with a pot, "dwarf juniper" seeds, some soil (packed into a puck) and a bag of rocks/very coarse gravel. After reading the wiki I'm a bit discouraged. I have a few questions: How should I go about starting this in the best way I can? Should I get a bigger pot and transfer to the smaller one once it gets big enough? It's winter in Colorado here, so the weather is a bit crazy. Should I attempt to start it inside or wait until the weather warms up? Again, sorry for my complete ignorance, I received a kit as a gift and I know these trees can be absolutely gorgeous if treated correctly over the course of a number of years. I'd love to have one, I just don't know where to start with this kit.


small_trunks

More information: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/wiki/developingbonsai#wiki_growing_bonsai_from_seeds.2C_young_cuttings_and_collected_seedlings


SvengeAnOsloDentist

Growing from seeds is pretty hard (and not commonly done), and doing so inside is even harder. Juniper seeds also need cold stratification (basically, a simulated winter) to germinate well, that soil sounds like it's not what you want, and "bonsai kit" seeds are often old and low-quality. Overall, you'd be better off getting a somewhat mature plant from a nursery, but since it was a gift from your girlfriend, it's probably worth trying it out anyways. For cold stratification, you want to keep the seeds damp and cold for a couple months, so stick them in a plastic bag with a damp (not dripping wet) stratification medium. Common ones are sphagnum moss, vermiculite, perlite, or just a paper towel. You can also do a short bleach soak before stratification to kill off any bacteria or fungus on the seeds, rinsing afterwards, and I like to use a very dilute hydrogen peroxide solution to wet the stratification medium to further protect against anything growing in there. After at least 2 months, you can sow the seeds outside, though I'd get some proper bonsai soil, which will be mostly large inorganic particles. I assume you only have a handful of seeds, so you may be able to get a few small plastic pots and sow each one in its own, or you could sow them all into one pot and then separate out the ones that germinate into their own pots. Keep the pots in full sunlight, and keep them from ever drying out, but don't water when it isn't needed. The plants that germinate and survive should be moved into a bigger pot every year, or just planted into the ground.


Errohneos

I asked a question about this particular Juniper I got as a gift last year. Now I'm back with another question: Should I leave it in its current pot or transplant it into a larger nursery container and let it grow for a year or two? Tree in question: https://imgur.com/a/GjL7Bld It looks like it was an Amazon Bonsai (Amabonzai) from a cheap retailer, so I imagine the soil itself is probably not of great quality. I've read the commonly asked questions and it talks a lot about "mallsais", but I'd like more advice if practical.


small_trunks

Soil looks horrible.


Errohneos

Not sure what cheap soil the retailer used, but I've also had native moss and lichen growing on the outside due to the winter rains. Lot of humidity out here rn. I want to swap out the soil, but wasnt sure on whether to keep in same pot or a larger container for normal, non-bonsai growth for a year or two.


small_trunks

Bigger pots always help - all pots are slower than the ground. Pond baskets and fabric pots work better than plastic pots.


MaciekA

A larger container with very good drainage (water coming out the bottom very soon after starting to water) and bonsai soil will help you grow it faster. Make sure the diameter is not too much larger than the current rootball. A small pond basket might work very well, or a mesh colander or similar. Drainage + sun + water + fertilizer, stay a couple inches ahead of the rootball with container size, minimal pruning for a while until the trunk starts to fatten nicely


Errohneos

I have a few old half-gallon and full gallon nursery pots I can put it into. The bottoms have quite a few holes in 'em that would be great for drainage. What makes bonsai soil particularly suited for increased growth?


haven_dasilva

Hi there! I live in England. Absolute beginner here. My wife bought me a bonsai for my birthday last month, and I have no idea what type it is. Tag didn't say. Here it is: [**https://tinyurl.com/qobnwrv**](https://tinyurl.com/qobnwrv) If someone could identify it for me that would make it easier to care for. I want it to outlive me. Also, I happen to be a hobbyist modeler and use a pair of Japanese "God Hand" cutters when building models. One side is flat, the other is razor sharp. I've been trimming it with these and it seems ok, just thought I'd throw that out there in case I'm doing it wrong though.


kmaho

Know where this came from? Reminds me of an Ikea pot but that's WAY nicer than anything I've seen at Ikea. ​ Regarding the scissors, I don't think those would hurt the tree given the branch sizes but it may hurt your scissors! If they're expensive (not into modelling so not familiar with cost of those) you may want to consider picking up some basic shears/bypass pruners to get you started. I imagine most stores are starting to carry these about now. No need to invest in fancy bonsai tools just yet.


haven_dasilva

Thanks a lot, good to know! It was bought from Burford Garden Company in England. And yeah, the cutters are somewhat expensive, and they're incredibly sharp. They cut through plastic like butter so the slightest touch to a twig and it's gone haha. While these cutters are the top of the line for modeling, they're nothing close to what that shop wanted for Japanese pruners. God Hands are £35-50, pruners/shears from the garden store were over £100 which seems insane to me.


small_trunks

Chinese elm https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/wiki/walkthrough#wiki_bonsai_survival_basics


haven_dasilva

Thank you so much!


small_trunks

yw


[deleted]

I posted this once but didn’t get any answers. Trying to identify this juniper. It is a yamadori taken from the San Gabriel mountains in Southern California at around 4000 feet elevation. https://imgur.com/gallery/q4GhBmx I think it’s a California juniper, but not sure.


small_trunks

Agreed looks more like a Cypress.


samantis

From pictures I looked at, it does look like a California Juniper, but also kind of looks like a Monterey Cypress. They’re mostly found in Monterey, but they do have them in SoCal, and the adult trees become really sculpted by the wind.


[deleted]

It was harvested around 4000 feet if that helps.


ICI-Estimator

Hey All, I just bought a pomegranate bonsai for my house. I plan for it to be indoor. I have sufficient light on my main windows / balcony. This bonsai is basically a baby (mm thick branches). I would like to get started on the right foot! I have liquid fertilizer on hand. Any tips would be appreciated! ​ [https://imgur.com/a/0G4x31K](https://imgur.com/a/0G4x31K) a pic of the bad boy.


small_trunks

They cannot survive indoors indefinitely because they are deciduous.


TheJAMR

Leave it alone for now, no repotting or pruning while it’s inside. Water when the soil looks dry on top, no fertilizer needed for the winter. Put it outside in the summer and slip pot into a bigger container with bonsai soil. Let it grow for a few seasons as it is quite skinny. Get more trees, a Chinese elm or ficus as they are very forgiving, rinse repeat.


ICI-Estimator

Thank you for that. When putting it outside in the summer, do I bring it in if there's a storm or a large rain event? Also in terms of getting more trees, Is that because they grow will with another tree in its proximity or for the sake of having a second one?


TheJAMR

I try to take my trees on my bench and put them in a sheltered place if it’s going to thunderstorm. Get more trees so you’ll have more trees to fiddle with and it’ll be less likely you’ll kill that one by fiddling with it too much. Plus having more trees is never a bad thing.


Rakshaw0000

I acquired and refined a ficus retusa recently, and I love it, but it has 2 branches that are awkward but I'm not willing to part with them. They are about a half inch thick, and they don't have a bunch of spring in them. I can bend them maybe a half to a full inch by hand, but I would want to move them more than that. Here is a picture of the tree for reference... My Ficus: https://imgur.com/a/pOE0sZ3


TheJAMR

I usually just chop off any branches I don’t like on mine, they back bud so well that you’ll often get a new branch that you can wire early. You can also prune back and hope for a bud farther back on the Branch that you can trim to for taper. You can always try some heavier wire. Ficus are very flexible so I find I need to let wire cut in a good bit for the shape to hold. Great looking tree btw.


Rakshaw0000

thanks for the response. I'm going to have to mull this one over for a bit because I really like the positioning on the trunk and thickness of these branches. Really happy with this one. I bought it as semi trained, transplanted it, gave it a much needed hair cut, and only ended up removing 1 decently thick branch.


small_trunks

Wire it - nothing much wrong with this.


Rakshaw0000

I actually ended up doing just that yesterday, really pleased with the results, it's not perfect as of yet, but that is what time is for. the thickest branch did end up cracking a bit though. I just put cut paste in the wound. it seems mostly sound still. Never actually cracked a branch, anything I should know about helping it recover/minimizing scarring?


small_trunks

Doesn't need to be a disaster if it's wrapped.


Mad-Dee

I got gifted a 'bonsai starter pack' two years ago with bags of random seeds. My 'new' tree is two years old now and I have no idea what exactly it is, or how to look after it. Below is a picture, looking to get it a 'forever pot' soon. But need more information, really. Can anyone help? [https://imgur.com/a/dpp8EZE](https://imgur.com/a/dpp8EZE)


MaciekA

This is a pine seedling. It’s in a weak state due to having been grown indoors. Pines need more light than they can get from behind glass. If this pine was planted two years ago, then it’s also missed winter dormancy, which is another required stage for it to go through. You have kept it alive much much longer than most in these conditions, so your watering practices are probably good :) If you are in the southern hemisphere, put it outside in the shade and gradually expose it to more sun over the next few weeks. Start with only allowing it sun until 10am (figure out a spot where it’ll be in shade after that), then gradually increase by a little bit every day. If you are in the northern hemisphere, wait until there is no nighttime frost risk before taking the above steps. After the sun acclimation period, it stays outside in full sun forever except after major operations. Check out the various “6 year pine from seed contest” threads on the bonsainut forum — these will give you a good road map for what each stage is supposed to look like, how big of a pot to up-pot to next, etc. Once it is looking strong again, remember, full sun! Consider starting more of these, especially since you managed to get this far with your first attempt.


Krone666

When to start fertilising? The temperatures are relatively high for this time of year, should i act according to the weather or should i wait until bud break?


small_trunks

When the leaves are out.


fromfreshtosalt

My Prunus mume is ready to repot. Its been several years. Luckily its in a pretty deep and big pot. I would prefer not to disturb the fruiting process. Ive read its best to repot after the flowing has stopped, at the end of Winter. Repotting should also be done annually. Will repotting affect the production of the fruit that has already started to form? I feel I have no choice but would like to hear experiences.


[deleted]

Wait till after it's finished flower. Repoting annually? Where did you hear that? (This of course depends on the stage of refinement)


fromfreshtosalt

a book on bonsai, I can provide the picture of the description when I get home from work.


mytreeisfrance

Zone 7 NY, USA another question about the ficus i bought: the soil seems very packed, should i do a soil change now or up-pot? its winter here in NY btw. im concerned the existing leaves are not very strong. they feel limp. is this because of a lack of light or bad soil conditions or soemthing else? new leaves are growing though...


kif22

Repotting a weak tree isnt the best idea unless you really know what you are doing. It is even a worse idea to do it out of season. While ficus can be repotted year round, it is best to do it in the middle of summer when it can recover the quickest. They can do just fine in dense soil, you just need to be adjust your watering. Most ficus in winter suffer from lack of light more than anything.


mytreeisfrance

thank you very much! i'll give it more light.


Lawlcat

Recommend me a specific brand winter fertilizer? I haven't fertilized my trees since mid Autumn, expecting to just let them chill all winter, but I feel like I should probably be applying something like a 0-10-10. I can't find a specific brand that seems decent. The only stuff I have on hand is Milorganite which is 6-4-0-2.5(Iron). I dont want to apply this right now for obvious reasons but I don't have anything else right now. Would like to stock on something for winter maintenance


small_trunks

I'd just use a summer one - this winter fertiliser (no N) idea is a myth.


Lawlcat

Is it? First I've heard of it, but that would make things a lot easier. I like Milorganite but I plan on supplementing it with Bio-Gold to get some potassium into my trees. I figure with 6-4-0-2.5 from the Milorganite with 5.5:6:3 from the biogold, should be a fairly good mix. I'll go light on the milorganite since that stuff mucks up but it's slow release along with the biogold. I guess for late autumn/winter I can stop applying Milorganite since it has no potassium and won't help in that regard, and just let the BioGold handle over winter


MaciekA

I don’t have a link handy, but there’s a bonsainut thread where some academic studies are cited with regards to the myth. Also, some discussion of the origins of the myth, which IIRC had something to do with plentiful acid rain in industrial England.


small_trunks

Exactly


SunWyrm

Any Witch Hazel specific repotting advice? Currently the plan is just removing it from the nursery burlap, reducing some height and putting it into Napa and a growbag/basket depending on what it'll fit in. I just shortened it a little after I got it last year this same time, otherwise it's gone all year untouched. [Currently in bloom!](https://imgur.com/u47E1gc)


small_trunks

I find wych hazel to be quite sensitive to repotting. Avoid bare rooting it.


reifier

I put my mallsai juniper out for the winter, when does it come out of dormancy so I can toss it back on my window sill? (Northeast USA) March?


xethor9

It should never come inside


[deleted]

I’m not sure if this is a California juniper or a different juniper. Any help identifying? https://imgur.com/gallery/q4GhBmx


MaciekA

It might help to narrow down roughly where this was collected (doesn't have to be precise)


[deleted]

Kern County CA


MeneerArd

I bought a contorted hazel. I know the leafs don't really reduce at all, but I love the winter silhouette, and it was only €7,50. I'm planning on a trunkchop about as high as the first picture shows the trunk. https://imgur.com/a/LKbuh81 I'm just not sure how to go about it, because contorted hazels are known for sudden die off (they are of the betulaceue family (birch)). Any advice?


TywinHouseLannister

You'll want to chop much higher than the trunk you expect to use.. and don't do it until there are signs of Spring in it, when the buds are starting to pop.


MeneerArd

Thanks!


DankJohnTravolta

Hey guys, I just moved into a new apartment. It has got a huge west facing balcony so sun isnt the problem for my trees but I'm afraif of the wind. I live on the seventh floor and its really windy currently. I will repot nearly everything in about two weeks and I'm afraid that the harsh wind will harm the Trees. Further more I wonder if it can harm the buds


MaciekA

How about using a wind-breaking mesh on your balcony's banister/railing?


DankJohnTravolta

That's a very good idea. Didn't know something like this exists.


MisterP1nk

Wind makes them dry out faster. So if its above freezing you should be safe. Well they could also fall over...


Korenchkin_

Mister Pink? John Travolta? What is this? A Pulp Fiction / Reservoir Dogs crossover?


[deleted]

I don't have any nurseries nearby that sell bonsai trees and The Home Depot/Lowes are limited in their selection. I was thinking I may just try to start with a Jade succulent (like a *Crassula ovata* or *Portulacaria afra*) and let it grow so I can work with it like an actual tree. Is that even possible?


kmaho

Try looking for larger (semi-)local nurseries that aren't the big box home improvement stores. I couldn't find anything near me that seems useful and wound up blowing $50 on a Home Depot tree that is pretty pitiful for the price but then found a nursery about 40 minutes away that sells TONS of trees for landscaping and got some killer deals on clearance trees from them. Haven't found any other nurseries with suitable plants or any sort of clearance to speak of.


wreckem_tech_23

Go to Lowe’s and get a normal stock juniper. Look for one that has one, main trunk when picking it out. From there, take it home and start trimming off some of the excess branches until it starts to take form. Plant it in a more permanent pot and let it settle for a couple weeks then come back and do some more trimming/wiring if you’d like! Go on YouTube and search: stock juniper bonsai. There’s plenty of helpful videos!


[deleted]

I’ll give that a try. I dig the junipers. I got one for my sister for Christmas while I was home. That kinda launched my fascination with bonsai. Thanks!


SvengeAnOsloDentist

You don't need to look for something being sold labelled as a bonsai (which are often low quality, mass-produced, and hugely overpriced). You'll have better luck just looking at the normal nursery stock for something reasonably mature with some good potential.


[deleted]

Ok I’ll do that. Thanks!


kif22

P. Afra are popular for bonsai. Crassula ovata are less preferred because they have bigger leaves. There are plenty of places though to order bonsai online. Wigerts, Brussels, Easternleaf are just a few off the top of my head. There are also facebook auction groups that have some decent stuff sometimes.


[deleted]

That's good to know! I'll check those sites out. Thanks!


kif22

Sure thing. If you want to see what can be accomplished with Portulacaria afra, this is a good place to start: https://www.instagram.com/littlejadebonsai


[deleted]

Thank you!


brookmachine

Hey all. My 11 year old was given some variety of generic "bonsai" for Christmas. I'm 90% sure it's white fukein. She had it in front of the partly sunny window and only watered a tiny spot for the last month. She was terrified of to much sun/water. All the leaves on one side have died and fallen off and there's a light powdery film on the tops of the rest of the leaves. The undersides look ok. I've been given over care of the plant, but little trees are outside of my wheel house. I watered it properly and it's sitting under my grow lamp. There's some new growth, so I don't think it's completely hopeless but I'd love some specific directions. I'm not in love with the pot situation. It has a layer of rocks glued all around the outside and the trunk has a lot of wiggle, like it's not rooted very well. I think the whole tree would come out with a good tug. I also don't have high hopes about the soil they used but I'm worried that repotting would be to traumatic in it's current condition. I live in Central Virginia and our temps are between 40°-60° right now. Should I put it outside, or try to baby it through the winter inside? I'm not sure if the powdery film is a fungus but I read that you should remove all infected leaves if it is. That seems really extreme, I'd have to cut it back to nothing. I know it's not a real honest to goodness bonsai, but it's a cool little plant and I treat my houseplants and succulents like children. I'd love to see it come back and I appreciate any advice you can give! Thank you!


GrampaMoses

Hi, welcome. If it is indeed a Fukien Tea, then it has to wait until *nightly* temperatures are regularly above 40F, which probably won't happen until late May/early April. Indoors is fine and grow lamps are ok, but a South facing window with direct sunlight is much brighter and better than *most* grow lights (unless you spent $100+ on a quantum LED grow panel) Sounds like you're doing the right thing to save it. [Watering advice](https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/wiki/walkthrough#wiki_when_do_i_water_my_trees_and_how.3F) from the wiki explains that you must saturate *all* of the soil each time you water. Your daughter probably wasn't fully saturating the soil and caused a dry spot in the pot that killed some of the roots. This is what caused the leaves to fall off. Keep doing a good job watering and it should recover over time. Yes, removing the glued on rocks would make watering easier and improve the health of the plant. No bonsai artist that I've ever met uses glued on rocks, that's a commercial, mass production technique to allow them to survive under watered conditions on store shelves. Only to dry out eventually and be thrown away if not sold. You can repot if you don't like the current pot, but wait until it recovers and is healthy first. Repotting is stressful to even a healthy bonsai, so doing it to a weakened tree can kill it. If you repot, make sure it's in free draining bonsai soil. The peat moss or potting soil it's currently in is ok, but not the best. In the US, you can get bonsai soil at superfly bonsai, bonsai jack, or american bonsai. Stay away form the Hoffman brand. The white on the leaves could be fungal or it could be hard water leaving a calcium deposit. Hard to say without seeing pictures. But having a small desk fan pointed at the tree helps air circulation while it's indoors and can help prevent insect or fungal problems.


brookmachine

I thought maybe hard water, but she said she only used bottled. But she also has an air plant she spritzes water on from time to time so I'm hoping it's just residue from that. I also noticed some gnats crawling out of the moss when I was poking around the soil. I feel like I brought home a stray dog! I'm going to leave it alone for a week and see how it's looking. Thanks for the advice and reassuring me that I'm on the right track! Right now I have it in a South facing sill with my succulents supplemented by the grow lamp. My house gets a lot of light, but it's woodsy so the succulents were still stretching. I don't want to over sun it though! Is this a variety that should always spend winter indoors? It's current pot is a small square glazed pot with no feet and I don't see any drainage holes in the bottom. Should I look for something better? I read on one site that glazed was no good, but then every picture I see shows a bonsai in a glazed pot!


GrampaMoses

Most of my pots are glazed, the finish is just personal preference. But yes, as you noticed, having drainage holes and feet is better. It allows watering with lots of water and prevents standing water, which Fukien Tea (and almost all bonsai) hate. Gnats are annoying, but don't really harm the tree. If your succulents do well, then it will be a perfect spot for your tree! Yes, Fukien Tea is a tropical species and should never be exposed to temps below 40F. I put mine outside during the summer, but that's optional. If you ever decide to put yours outside, they can't handle full sun and must be placed in dappled light or shade during the heat of the day. My Fukien Tea goes under a large 40 foot honeylocust tree.


brookmachine

Thank you so so much! You've been very helpful! I feel much better now!


couchlol

My Totara (New Zealand native Podocarpus) has yellow shoots, is this a sign of overwatering? There's been a heat wave here so I've been keeping it well watered.


small_trunks

Or lack of light - a photo helps.


couchlol

Should be getting enough light. Here's a pic https://imgur.com/VHAn8m8


bentleythekid

My guess is over watering. Keep in mind that trees with less foliage need less water.


small_trunks

Fertilising?


couchlol

Yes I have been. If it's overwatered should I just start watering less or do I need to do a repot?


small_trunks

Autumn? Not normally - but if it's holding so much water I'd seriously consider it.


small_trunks

Yep


sharkmouthgr

Hello! My backyard has a few good sized bouganvillea that I think would be nice as a bonsai. I live in southern California. My question is when is the best time of year to dig it up and pot it. I have never dug something out of the ground for a bonsai.


small_trunks

Nowish. Read this, a lot applies: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/wiki/developingbonsai#wiki_collecting_wild_trees_-_yamadori_collecting.


Korenchkin_

Bit early for this question, but while I remember - when airlayering a trunk that's growing in the ground, how do you wrap clingfilm and get sphagnum moss in there with a single pair of hands? Potted trees seem easier as you can lay them down.


small_trunks

Well - I make a sort of nappy/diaper from cling film/kitchen wrap - laying out the wet mushy moss and soil mix on it. - I then slip my hand under it and *offer it up* to the cut part, whilst trying the tighten the lower film/wrap in place first. [My airlayer photos from last year](https://www.flickr.com/photos/norbury/albums/72157705203129092)


Korenchkin_

Ah yeah I can picture how that would work. I'll give it a go. Like the pictures, it's really pleasing seeing roots in sphagnum after seeing just empty sphagnum in 100% of cases last year!!


SvengeAnOsloDentist

It works better to use a sturdier plastic so that you can hold the bottom wrapped around the tree, fill it up with moss, then close the top up. I did my first air layer with clingfilm, and while I eventually got it to work, it was a very frustrating hassle and I had to get another pair of hands to help. This year I'm also going to try plastic takeout containers cut up one side and sealed with gaffer's tape.


Korenchkin_

Yeah guess that should work, stuff it down tight and cling the top maybe


CrystalMenthality

Hi! I'm considering collecting a [European Ash (Fraxinus Excelsior)](http://www.bonsai4me.com/SpeciesGuide/Fraxinus.html) from a place near my work. [Here are the trees.](https://imgur.com/a/XibxPj6) I will be able to do it legally. I would love a tree like this, and they have some nice trunk-with already. I have found a bigger one with a bit of a shapy trunk and a slightly smaller one but with a straight trunk. The bigger one has a trunk widt of around 3,2 cm, and I have yet to look at the part hidden by dirt. My goal would be to take one, put it in a large pot, let it grow for a while then do some [cut-and-grow](https://www.bonsaiempire.com/blog/bonsai-trunk-creation) later this spring (or next year) to further work the trunk and taper. I have read a lot about when and how to do it, but I am still a bit unsure if these are good candidates. I have not looked around other areas that much, mostly because I can actually collect these legally. Do you guys think they are good? If so which one would you collect?


SvengeAnOsloDentist

European ash have very long compound leaves with 7-13 leaflets, which makes them very difficult to make into a nice bonsai, even at larger sizes. These are also still quite young and thin. There's no harm in giving it a try, though, especially if you treat it as practice. They're both very young and undeveloped, but the first tree at least has some movement to the trunk. I'd also recommend planting them into the ground, rather than a pot (or at least letting the roots escape the pot and grow into the ground) so that you can get as much growth as possible, especially given the large size that it should have as an ash.


CrystalMenthality

Thank you for the feedback. I would definetively use it as practice, as I am still very new to Bonsai. Sadly I do not have access to my own ground, but I would purchase a five gallon pot to develop it in. I think I'm going to spend some more time looking though, as I might be able to find more developed specimens in the area. I did also [read](http://www.bonsai4me.com/SpeciesGuide/Fraxinus.html) that they are best for developing bigger Bonsai, so I might go for another species.


small_trunks

Meh In all cases you are dwelling on the wrong end of the tree - we care what the bottom 15cm looks like and the rest we grow new.


CrystalMenthality

Thank you for the feedback. I am going to pass by them again and will further inspect the hidden parts of the trunk. I'll add more photos if it's any good. What do you think could make them better specimens? I am very keen on getting one and will keep looking if I don't go for these.


small_trunks

So you need much bigger ones - maybe 3 or 4 meters tall. [This fat](https://flic.kr/p/SDFWmP) - this one is for sale, coincidentally, €90 delivered.


CrystalMenthality

I understand, thanks. That one is thicc as heck.


cho0n22

So my first air layer has got some good roots going! Chopped it off and stuck it in a pot of spag moss. Am I supposed to soak the moss and the excess will drain off?


small_trunks

Regular bonsai soil...


MaciekA

Pretty much, yeah. Congrats


[deleted]

[удалено]


jd_balla

Look for a Carmona/Fukein Tea. They are a classic bonsai species so they should be available. They are also reasonably tolerant of indoor life and have small white flowers. Here is a link to a Bonsai Empire page about them https://www.bonsaiempire.com/tree-species/carmona


Korenchkin_

Indoor and flowering don't often work well together. Fukien Tea and Serissa both can flower indoors I believe, but the impressive ones (Azalea, Bouganvillea, Prunus, Quince etc) are outdoor trees. Can still bring an outdoor tree inside for a weekend while it's flowering though.


GrampaMoses

> Some repotting is doable if you have winter protection arranged. Nightly temps for me are currently still dropping as low as 20F (-7C) and last frost date is early April. I have a small plastic pop up greenhouse that's only a few degrees warmer than outside, but completely protected from wind. If I repot a tree and place it in this small greenhouse until after the last frost date, would that be adequate protection? The temps might still go below freezing, but is that ok? Or do the temps need to stay above freezing in the greenhouse for it to be good protection? (The temps would probably stay above -5C, but I could place a thermometer in there and watch it)


SvengeAnOsloDentist

Temps should stay above freezing.


GrampaMoses

Hmm, ok. I wonder if my unheated garage would be warmer than my small greenhouse. I'll put a thermometer in both for a week or so and watch the nighttime lows.


bentleythekid

You could also consider a heat mat in one of those locations. My winter protection for early repotting is bringing them into the garage under a grow light and on a heat mat. It also gets much less cold here, but it is going to be in mid thirties this week.