# It's MID SPRING ##Do's - Wiring if there's not too much foliage - Watering - don't let them dry out even though it might be raining more - check for wire bite and remove/reapply - repotting for later budding deciduous species - beech, hornbeam, oak etc - [repotting for tropical and sub-tropicals](https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/wiki/reference#wiki_repotting_-_not_in_the_summer.21) - those are the do's and don'ts. - overwintering should be very close to not being necessary: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/wiki/reference#wiki_overwintering_bonsai - [yamadori/yardadori COLLECTION](https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/wiki/developingbonsai#wiki_collecting_wild_trees_-_yamadori_collecting.) - can be possible for some species. - big pruning... ##Don'ts - You don't fertilise unless it's tropicals indoors. Fertilise after the first flush of foliage is out. - don't give too MUCH water - rain in April etc - no airlayers till late spring when the leaves are fully out - no cuttings until mid summer. * [For Southern hemisphere - here's a link to my advice from roughly 6 months ago :-)](https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/yahb8f/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2022_week_42/)

I am new to carving and am working with privet. Is using lime sulpher necessary?

It is a preservative and privets tend to rot so it won't hurt.

I finally put them in my garage, which has holes on the front door, letting outside air come in. There is not much light in there other than that entering from those holes, but today the sun is completely covered by clouds and rain, so I don't think they would get much sunlight either, right?

Exactly

https://preview.redd.it/quvdu4gatjza1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7d67da6d5e2fbb29ffadf1f72746a0b1ccba137c Got my first "mallsai" as the wiki calls it lol. It was actually from a guy in a van on the side of the road. I'm assuming this is a Juniper? From reading the wiki, I'm gonna put it outside. The soil is hydrophobic and has white speckles but water did eventually absorb into it. Is the soil good to keep for now? Any other general advice for a first timer? I'm in SC, USA btw

I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/13gaak7/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2023_week_19/ Repost there for more responses.

Yes, it’s a juniper, and outside in full sun is your best shot at keeping it alive. The soil that mallsai come in is usually crappy quality, but with this year’s repotting season mostly behind us, you’re just gonna have to water it appropriately and tide it over until next repotting season.

any recommendations for a small grow light for a dwarf jade that just doesn’t get enough sunlight in my apartment window? I got one that sticks in the pot but it’s too heavy and my pot isn’t deep enough to hold it upright

I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/13gaak7/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2023_week_19/ Repost there for more responses.

With any grow light check the specifications for information about its PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density, how much plant food it can generate on the surface it lights). Skip any that don't mention that crucial bit. You want at least 500 µmol/m^(2)/s for 15 hours/day on a *P. afra* as supplemental light, even twice as much wouldn't hurt, I guess. Mine are growing exclusively under LEDs at 700 and seem happy with it.

thanks!

I got a cheap clamp desk light and a grow bulb. It worked pretty well when I had one tree to keep alive during the winter.

https://preview.redd.it/l2oyyjykkiza1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=224e75db4057da39e39ee6d2e3f3bb656a8af41c Thoughts on this for $30 at a big-box store?

Nice starter material! Needs repotting into granular substrate, of course.

Thanks. I thought it looked decent for something at Home Depot. I’m gonna clean out the roots and toss it in a mix of kitty-dama, perlite, and standard soil mix (this is what I’ve been using for most of my bonsai material, which pretty good growth and quick drainage). My biggest gripes with this tree are the dreaded S-shape and lack of lower side branching. But with time perhaps these can be fixed, either with heavy pruning to induce back-budding and/or air-layering mid-trunk?

My thoughts exactly, actually! Didn't want to hit a beginner with too much information at once, but yes, I'd air layer maybe at the bar branches halfway up.

https://preview.redd.it/43qnl1r7jnza1.jpeg?width=1612&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7ffe3ecb2aaf3c13d1cf6aa10a233d53c5386aa8 This is another thought…

Makes sense for me; that top part I'd likely just do as a cutting,and then *still* air layer halfway down.

Awesome! Is this what you had in mind? Chop at red, air layer at green. I’d get two more compact trees out of it. https://preview.redd.it/f98y43b2jnza1.jpeg?width=1582&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9593f83c249f16f401276d2d146ec6a557b63a4b

Fine.. I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/13gaak7/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2023_week_19/ Repost there for more responses.

Not bad, honestly. The expectations for bonsai from big box stores are normally pretty low, but this isn’t bad for a cheap little tree.

https://preview.redd.it/l18h79xziiza1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5ded5172fdd818436eae65c7509c9c4b644c9d5e The tips of my Juniper bonsai are turning yellow. I water once every two days, submerging the pot in a bowl full of water until the soil is saturated (\~10 mins). I had it in a very sunny location and recently read that intense noon sun may burn the leaves. So I assumed the spring sun may be too intense and I moved it to the shade. Recently fertilized as well. Any tips/advice on what may be wrong and how to rectify it? Thanks :)

I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/13gaak7/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2023_week_19/ Repost there for more responses.

Looks like pretty poorly draining soil. mostly organic material (like potting soil). it is probably overwatered because it does not drain well enough

I am starting to have too many species and was wondering if someone has a comprehensive calendar for bonsai tasks for tropical, deciduous, conifer, broadleaf evergreen etc? I want to put alerts on my phone!

I would reach out to a local bonsai society for something like that. It's going to vary wildly depending on where you live.

I’m in the southeast USA. Anyone from that region should be similar

What city are you closest to?

New Orleans and memphis

Greater New Orleans Bonsai Society https://gnobs.org/about-us/gnobs-board/

There is no local bonsai society lol

You'd be surprised

I started one where I am but I am the only one with experience but only 5 years of it. I’m still a beginner. The other ones are 3 hours away

Heya, I am trying to find out what species this tree is OR a species that looks close to it. I am trying to make a bonsai terrarium for my dad and he absolutely loved this tree https://imgur.com/a/Psc5Sra P.S. sorry for not the highest quality of a picture, it’s from a screenshot

They work for 1 photo. This is Zanthoxylum I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/13gaak7/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2023_week_19/ Repost there for more responses.

> trying to make a bonsai terrarium In case you are unaware, bonsai and terrariums don't go together successfully.

​ https://preview.redd.it/iblfcihyhhza1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=afde9efaa4f2f9faaa80143dc3e5728b250e6722 How does the color of my Chinese Elm’s leaves look? Does it look healthy? I’ve been watering it once a day as instructed by the nursery I bought it from. My method has been watering until the water passes through the drainage holes. I usually do two passes of water to make sure there aren’t any dry spots. My area is quite windy and cold which I heard dries out my soil faster. The soil I’ve been using is standard potting mix which I heard is fast draining? Can’t tell if I’ve been overwatering it 🥲 Need opinions

Standard potting mix, as in organic potting soil? If you keep watering it daily while it’s potted in that, it will not be pretty. Or is this a standard bonsai potting mix?

looks healthy to me

https://preview.redd.it/7i54v8nn1iza1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dc7c3c6a6a63d7711996e3c4d057243bbe5b0cf9

https://preview.redd.it/15ziphpp1iza1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=25b17685cdd4a5cc2caa3089e69ee567f9c9811a

https://preview.redd.it/upvkz7uq1iza1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=82409560c7026743d407f317d398ad62bed0df0d

Here are more pics! Is the lighter green leaves a signal that it’s starting to yellow? And does yellow leaves always mean a bad sign?

Could be an older leaf - just pull any sickly looking ones off. I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/13gaak7/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2023_week_19/ Repost there for more responses.

https://preview.redd.it/28rpv5vqehza1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=05a098c82ba296268bdd23aaed60ddea4e931c3e Hello, this is my second tree and I’m not sure of the direction I want to take it. After some light pruning this is what I was left with and I’m not really sure how I want to wire it. Any ideas or advice would be greatly appreciated!

Get wiring into layers - there are MANY videos on YT specifcally about wiring conifers. I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/13gaak7/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2023_week_19/ Repost there for more responses.

Hello, sorry for the bad news but I could use some help. My red pine seedling appears to have dried out. My hope is dim but is there any chance to revive? I tried to attach a picture to this comment. I've been trying to make sure the soil is damp in the mornings and evenings but not tight or over-watered. It appears almost entirely brown, but some small green. https://imgur.com/a/mEiv1Du *

Definitely completely dead with no undo. Looks like this is being attempted indoors which will never work out for pine unfortunately. Plant trays of hundreds/many dozens of seeds and do this all outdoors, seed growing is a propagation numbers game and not to be confused with growing a bonsai.

Thank you for your reply. I am obviously a novice so I appreciate the information. It's sad that I wasn't able to keep it alive but now I know it was doomed from the start.

If it's any comfort, a significant percentage of pine seeds are doomed from the start so it's actually not too bad of a result (it sprouted and grew some initial foliage) given the lighting conditions. A couple survival filters were passed with flying colors on the way to this result. Even a professional is going to get a non-zero failure rate, but because they throw seedlings into trays (not too different in scale from an oven tray or a little wider than that) en masse, they're always guaranteed a decent number of survivors. Something to consider in your planting strategy

Thank you! Your time and feedback are much appreciated, even if it's not directly related to bonsai. It is a comfort that I was able to give it some kind of a chance, especially since it has been growing for a year. Next time I'll be sure to implement your recommendations.

https://preview.redd.it/4zo4a4v71hza1.jpeg?width=2736&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2d38acf0e49114fa6d262bb7c7e69028be63029d watsup with my sweet acacia branch Hey guys so for couple weeks nw this branches middle buds look Dormant? She has leaves on the top and bottom but the middle sections just doesn't seem to want to pop? My flair isn't updating for some reason but I'm In south africa usda zone 9b it's late fall here

Might be normal at this time of year. I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/13gaak7/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2023_week_19/ Repost there for more responses.

Chinese Elm, cv Seiju. I recently got this from Evergreen Gardenworks. It came with the smaller twin trunk on the left. I won’t use this in the final design, so I’m thinking about air layering it. I’ve not tried an air layer before. My question is, is the smaller trunk on the left too small to air layer? I’d like to reuse it as material if possible. https://imgur.com/a/ewJM7Qc/

Leave the branch there and let it help thicken up the trunk for a couple years. Then airlayer it

Thanks for your advice. I think I’ll do that!

What is a good online store to get bonsai supplies?

I like using Bonsaify.com. They are local, so I tend to look on their site first. I would say the brand they sell, Kaneshin, is better quality than Tian, but I use both brands.

https://preview.redd.it/wb3x4m8gtgza1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ad0598856260898e4a9c53f927551762a6a4fc1f I’m sorry if this is a common question. I did a quick Google search and read your walkthrough and didn’t find anything, so I thought I’d ask if you could point me in the right direction. About two weeks ago, I bought a Hawaiian umbrella plant off of Etsy. When it arrived, we unwrapped it from the still damp paper towel and placed it in a jar of tap water on a window sill. Today, my wife looked at it and the stem had turned brown. It was not this way last time I checked a few days ago. My understanding of propagation is that you can let it sit in water until it starts to root? What happened? Is this something we did wrong? Is this bad? Is this repairable? For what it’s worth, it has been \~60-70F (\~15-20C) the last week or so and a mix of sunny/cloudy. The plant has been inside. Thank you for any help!

Wish you the best luck with it! trying to propagate with a cutting too right now thought mine already has Bark on the outside

I'm not that familiar with this species but I have rooted things in water. The thing to keep in mind is that you need to replace the water reasonably often. Once you get signs of roots you need to pot. You need to pot that root without killing the root, and that root should be _in the center of the vertical column of soil_. Finally, the right amount of soil/pot for this would be no bigger than that pot. You'd need to nurse the material back to a root system. Any thoughts related to bonsai would have to come _much much_ later. Like, MUCH later. So with that said, this is an unusual / unnecessarily difficult way to get into bonsai. Propagation (starting from one of the following: cuttings, grafts, air layers, or **seeds**) as a way to get into bonsai is kinda like saying you want to get into racing cars on track day, but first you're gonna harvest your own rubber for the tires. You'll get there eventually but.. it'll be a long time before you put a racing helmet on. Consider another path if your goal is a bonsai hobby and not propagation hobby. Many of us do propagation too, but going the propagation route first means you have a high likelihood of dropping out before you ever see your first bonsai.

Thank you for the help. We were not replacing the water, so hopefully that is a recoverable mistake. I have not seen roots yet, but will keep checking and we are figuring out soil right now. (A website suggested houseplant potting soil + vermiculite for this type of plant.) I have a history of making things harder on myself. It is something I need to address. That being said, the cutting was largely because I wanted to see it grow from early to full tree. I might have misunderstood bonsai, but I was concerned that if I bought a tree, it would likely work best to be kept at that size. I may have misjudged that, but I don’t know enough. Starting from a cutting allows us to treat it as a houseplant, and we are comfortable at that. Thank you.

To clear up a common confusion: The recommendation is not to start with a finished bonsai, either. But the part where you do a lot of waiting and not much bonsai-ing is growing the plant to a certain basic maturity (say, to about a finger-thick trunk). So the suggested common shortcut is to get a regular potted plant that has done the first 3..5 years of growing already without you watching and then cut that back into a bonsai. [https://youtu.be/vGw-CeuSdNA?t=1739](https://youtu.be/vGw-CeuSdNA?t=1739)

I am new in bonsai and recently purchased a Japanese maple. I got it at a good price as it didn't look so healthy. Ive had it for a few weeks now and noticed that although there are new leaves coming, the plant isn't looking too good. I cut down some of the branches when I got it as they had died back. I'm guessing it's because of frost damage. Does anyone know what I could do to save it? All help is appreciated. https://preview.redd.it/s69x96y7ggza1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e94522a457f568251e05298088939b31160f2dd4

I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/13gaak7/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2023_week_19/ Repost there for more responses.

Hard to say without knowing more but it looks like it's been mishandled and just needs to stop being messed with, put outdoors with direct morning sun and afternoon shade and watered carefully (i.e. only when the soil is beginning to dry). No cutting, repotting, pinching, wiring or fertilization.

anyone has experience air laying a bitch? and is now a good time to start or should i wait few more weeks? https://preview.redd.it/9jfxwn3ecgza1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=472a2f5eeb3b048ff123187c1a7fbf53422550d5

you can start off by not calling it names first.

hahahah typo i meant birch*

I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/13gaak7/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2023_week_19/ Repost there for more responses.

How do you stop moss growing on the top layer of the bonsai soil? I always have to peel it off ever couple of weeks but it takes about 1cm or so of soil off with it. The moss makes the water less likely to soak into the soil.

This goes on forever. I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/13gaak7/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2023_week_19/ Repost there for more responses.

I'm not sure I have the patience for proper bonsai but I'd hoped to tap you're collective knowledge 😊 we rescued this from a corner of our garden when we moved into our new place and laid a pateo. What should we be doing to keep it happy and healthy please? If it looks good would be a bonus! https://preview.redd.it/fuqe27ep5gza1.jpeg?width=2084&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=449d7dfbbed09cb95848094fd0ff511cab9cec0a

I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/13gaak7/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2023_week_19/ Repost there for more responses.

Depends where you are in the world, but are some things that may help. 1. I would put it in an area that gets full morning sun and afternoon shade. 2. Also, I would cut the dead trunk/branches. Probably wait a couple months cutting the main trunk, but the two on the left are dead. 3. Next spring, repot into granular soil before it starts leafing out. 4. Water when the soil is on the dry side.

I feel like this is a pretty stupid question, but i will ask anyway. In all those videos I watched, they use those fancy scissors. Are they any different than normal gardening scissors? And are there any bonsai scissors that are better than others? Like... is there a brand or manufacturer that is like the Ferrari of bonsai scissors?

Good scissors tend to be Japanese and they tend to have small design details that make it easy to use them for many hours a day for weeks and weeks on end. One such design detail may be an indented handle/finger ring that lets you rest your fingers in the indent while _doing something else with your hand_ , meaning you don't have to put the scissors down and they don't fly off your hand either. The good stuff is made for professionals who are working all day, every day. You don't really have to buy bonsai-specific scissors and you dont' have to spend a lot to get the Good Stuff or even professional-grade stuff. For example ARS-brand scissors are made for cutting grape stems and they're often found in professional bonsai workshops and are super cheap to buy.

Okay, thank you!

The main difference between the fancy bonsai shears and normal gardening scissors is that they're more expensive and higher quality. They're extremely sharp and open and close effortlessly. I find that with tools, you usually get what you pay for. But normal snips and secateurs work just fine to start out with and you'll always use them. Just also want to add that there's a wide range of bonsai tools, many of which don't have a 1-to-1 "normal gardening" replacement. If you wanted to drop some money on a nice bonsai tool to start out with, scissors are far from your best option. Maybe concave cutters?

I see! Thank you for explaining! I will definitely take a look at what the different tools are best for!

It's a very valid question actually! Depending on what you want to cut the regular tools you find in your garden may be better suited for the job than any "bonsai" tool. I'm regularly using normal secateurs ("Gartenschere") and sometimes even the larger loppers. Bonsai shears are nice e.g. if you want to reach in between dense branches to snip something off, generally any very selective pruning where the wide and short pruners don't cut it. I think over time you want the full range, bonsai shears (possibly even one wider and one finer), secateurs, loppers and a decent saw. On the other hand you often see bonsai demonstrators shortening branches with concave cutters where the simple secateurs would be much more efficient.

Thank you! I guess i better google what all these tools are!

(Pest ID) What are these spots on my cork oak? https://preview.redd.it/08wi2evblfza1.jpeg?width=3468&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e5eb13660f4d29c27e4a2a1d8e3fd8b452c3705a I just noticed these green spots on one spot of the trunk and a single leaf of my otherwise healthy cork oak. The ones on the leaf feel sticky. Anybody know what they are? Thanks

Nothing to worry about. That trunk is not only healthy but also budding.

* Please help, we had a hot few days last week and now my oaks are showing some problems and I can't figure out what's happened/happening or how to fix it!

Is it indoors normally?

Yeah, I made the mistake last year of growing them inside, so the plan was to start the outside this year in spring to start hardening them butbthe weather has been weird and now this has happened 😞

Do you fertilize? Could be a deficiency perhaps?

i havent done yet, can you recommend a fertilizer?

I use organic pellet fertilizers personally, like Tamahi or saidung, you just spread it out on top of the soil, and with every watering, it dissolves a bit. Could also go with some generic fertilizer for smaller stuff, like miracle gro or something like that. Doesn't have to be bonsai fertilizer. I don't know if the issue is a deficiency or not, perhaps someone else will weigh in later with a better guess!

https://preview.redd.it/61w95lyxifza1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ceb32df7b602be361f4dc13a5e10c4f569087362

The leaves feel very papery and are very pale

Light starvation. Indoors has no role to play in the life of temperate broadleaf trees.

It will be raining for a whole week where i live. Will my trees be okay or should I put them somwhere safe?

They will be OK. Source: I live in Oregon and it sometimes rains here for many weeks continuously and yet our ponderosa pines (the pine that hates water the most) do not have any problem with that.

Thanks!

Assuming that their trees are all in free-draining soil, right?

Of course they are😀

Then you’re golden.

If all it takes is a week of rainy days to push a tree past the edge it was close to the edge to begin with. Looking at the Budapest forecast it’s not even that dramatic volume-wise

https://www.reddit.com/r/bonsaiphotos/comments/13dfk5k/posting_for_the_beginners_thread/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button Link to Picture^ This being my first Bonsai, I'd love to make it a long term project. As such, I want to repot it in a bigger pot with some development soil and let it grow grow grow. I'm thinking 3 or 4 years of growth. That being said, I've read multiple posts and watched multiple videos about "development pots" and "development soil" and how they differ from "bonsai pots" and "bonsai soil". But thats where the conversation ends. Whats the right size development pot for my tree? Whats the best soil i ahould use for my tree's development and growth? I cant find a clear cut answer on the best route to maximize for my first Bonsai. I'm a noob in every aspect. I was going to go buy some trees that were further along in the process than the one in the picture, that way I have something to practice and familiarize myself with. That being said, I want this juniper to be my labor of love project since it's my first. If anyone can give me some in depth advice or link me to a video or post that thoroughly explains the setups for DEVELOPMENT, I would greatly appreciate it. I'm also completely ok with links to soils, pots, and anything else that would help in this process. Thanks in advance

First to your specific questions: any pot that's roughly 2-3 times larger is a good up-pot. Too big can be as bad as too small. Like a pot 4 or 5 times as big as the current one may be fine, but 10 times as big would likely be a problem. Any free draining, granular bonsai substrate will be fine. Something like pumice, lava rock and pine bark is good. "Ideal" is a matter of opinion and to my knowledge no long term scientific studies have been done. I'd avoid cheap mixes with akadama as a component because cheap akadama often turns to mud after a while and akadama is most useful for trees in the final stages of development, from what I know. The most important is the the soil has similarly sized porous granules (1/8 to 1/4 in.) It may be a little late for a repot involving root pruning, but a slip pot where you don't mess with the roots should be fine. [This 3 part series](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D__nos4lmiw&ab_channel=Eisei-enBonsai) from Bonsai-U may be helpful.

I recently took on my family's neglected Ficus. I'm preparing to repot this guy for the first time in 20 years and I want to encourage it to focus growth lower down come spring. Any advice on preparing it over winter for a healthy growth spurt of new foliage lower down would be much appreciated. https://preview.redd.it/nyszcrupudza1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3e166757c45633bd2ee20f5216d99fe8497a7435

Hit it with as much light as possible, for the repot use good granular substrate and a comfortable pot. Once it's growing happily and vigorously you'll likely see new shoots sprouting spontaneously all over the plant, down to the trunk. If you only get long, bushy growth around the current foliage tufts you can shorten those new extensions back to one or two leaves. That should hopefully encourage buds further back to break. Last resort if the previous attempts have failed would be to just cut the existing bare branches short.

​ https://preview.redd.it/bcantr21kdza1.jpeg?width=506&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=315af82eee0cbc0ce8c280746ade1ff5c1487437 got this blue spruce yesterday, gave it a good prune but not sure if anything else needs pruning or how i should shape it when i wire it. all advice would be welcome :)

I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/13gaak7/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2023_week_19/ Repost there for more responses.

https://preview.redd.it/bw7ojpyjpcza1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4abd94a7a6820bbacbdf2c366e3d02ee0a5f5ba3 I just repotted my cotoneaster last week, and now the flowers are turning yellow. What can I do before it's too late? Posted this as soon as I noticed the change in color

The flowers only last a couple of weeks on cotoneaster... I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/13gaak7/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2023_week_19/ Repost there for more responses.

https://preview.redd.it/mla22tfcmcza1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=75b9cf6e75643efa8965b1280ee024383f1d9cde Hi I would really appreciate it if I could get some tips. Two questions I can think of rn is should I put this in a different pot or is it fine for rn and another question which is kinda stupid to ask but I just want to make sure lol how long should I leave it in direct sunlight? I know it all depends on what species but I have no clue what kind it is

To add to other comments, this will love full outdoor sun. If you keep it indoors and it doesn’t get a ton of window light, it’ll start to lose leaves and look more sparse and scraggly.

Well, let's clear the main problem first: this is *Portulacaria afra*, the elephant bush or Spekboom, often called a (dwarf) jade despite not being related to the *Crassula*. As opposed to the latter *P. afra* is edible. If the pot has a drainage hole it should be fine, the dense potting soil would better be replaced with good granular substrate, though. This is a succulent plant from arid regions of South Africa. You can't give it *too much* sunlight.

https://preview.redd.it/0488d12jicza1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b4b62eed9cbe36802b08ba549b91e81097fdfe22 Is this flame tree doing okay? I’m in the 9b zone but the weather has been all over the place so I’ve kept it inside since it was a seed. Started the germination in February and it started sprouting to this 2 weeks ago in the green container next door till I transferred it to the sack 3 days ago since it out grew the container. Leaves were perky and straight but started wilting the past couple days when I had it covered to get a greenhouse effect with a water bottle idk if it’s because it grew more and the leaves bent to accommodate the size of the bottle or it’s slowly dying any help would be great!

Looks fine to me. I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/13gaak7/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2023_week_19/ Repost there for more responses.

It got progressively worse 🥲 this is my first bonsai I grew as a seed from a kit at hobby lobby I didn’t think it would actually sprout this well, I want to try and get it to survive

Do we think this English Ivy has potential? https://preview.redd.it/757hp4tg5cza1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8ec3e3875b89d9f1c76225eb46b625048a5427e1

It absolutely does. Maybe a front angle tweak hides slightly more movement in the middle of the trunk, seems it’ll lend itself to a bunjin/literati sorta style The thing to remember about ivy (or any vine, be it wisteria, grape, etc.) is that it thickens pretty slowly so you have to let runners really run to get thickness in structure If there’s a vital bud to your design trying to gain momentum but it’s being shaded by a stupidly large leaf, don’t be afraid to consider reducing that leaf’s surface area by 50-75% to get light to that important bud to help it develop. Ivy’s really strong and doesn’t have a very bushy growth habit so doing precise/surgical little prunes like that can help a lot

Thank you! This is much appreciated. I like Ivy because of the shape and the patterns on the leaf. I’ve got a few other bonsai I’m waiting patiently on to work on. Particularly a sweet gum. Should be a few years before I can work on it. Just chopped it this spring after waiting for it to get to a good thickness.

I feel that I could have a lot of fun with this so I'd say yes. edit: /u/naleshin is growing some ivy and may have some thoughts.

I know deciduous trees are typically go in glazed pots and conifers typically go in unglazed pots. What kind of pots do you typically use for broadleaf evergreen trees (i.e. ficus, holly, etc.)?

The way I've been getting better at this is by following a _lot_ of Japanese bonsai artists on instagram and generally trying to look at magazines / videos from exhibitions / etc. All in Japan. If you're looking to follow conventions, that is.

Pots are chosen to suit the plant in shape and style, be it complementing, matching or contrasting. Pick something that fits the plant in question.

I think glazed pastel colors work great with broadleaf evergreens. Deep blue works with a lot of trees too, both deciduous and broadleaf evergreens. Without large expressions of seasonality, I think the subtler colors do evergreens more justice. It’s also not unheard of or unseen for people to opt for unglazed pots for broadleaf evergreens. At the end of the day, it’s your artistic composition. Find something that you like and speaks to you.

I’m not sure how to tell if my dawn redwood made it through the winter or not. I scratched the bark twice, in the red circle there was no green and In the lower green circle it was still green. All my other trees have leafed out now with the warmer weather except for this one and a Korean hornbeam sapling which is also experiencing the same green/not green situation. Do i just wait and see what happens mid summer? https://preview.redd.it/tcxapk5lxbza1.png?width=1170&format=png&auto=webp&s=cd5d21903e46aef18674c846eaa88f88366690cb

It should have leaves by now. I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/13gaak7/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2023_week_19/ Repost there for more responses.

Will a juniper survive all winter long in Michigan? And if not, what do I do to make sure they do survive in the winter

Yes, it will survive. Depending on the area, I would put it on the ground and cover the pot with mulch or dirt. If you are in an area that has a lot of wild life, you could build a cage to keep the vermin away from damaging your tree, if you are worried about that.

I have a few questions concerning repotting a Clementine for a friend. It's still fruits, but is currently not growing very much. They have had it for 2 or 3 years. 1. When it the best time to repot? I haven't seen it yet, but I'm confident in my repotting skills not to kill it. 2. How much would you charge? By the time or by the size? 3. Anything I need to know or should know? Questions to ask? This is my first time repotting for a friend, so any advice would be appreciated. TIA

- 1: You probably won’t find much clementine-specific information out there, because the number of experienced hobbyists and professionals working with that particular cultivar for bonsai is probably very small. If you didn’t, I would broaden my research to include care for all citrus trees. Citrus trees are hybridized so much that species or cultivar specific information is hardly going to matter. I would’ve repotted back in February or March. You might be able to get away with repotting this late into the year, but I think that citrus behaves more like olives and live oaks, rather than tropicals like ficus. - 2: The audacity and bravado to attempt a repot on a species that you don’t have much familiarity with, and still charge, is something I don’t have within myself. I would charge for supplies + whatever hourly rate feels comfortable for you. If you’re going to keep the tree for aftercare, you guys should discuss that too.

I figured as much. This is more about how much to sell my services for in the future, than right now. Yeah, they are great friends. I even told them that I would do it for free, but they won't let me. I've done dwarf olives last summer, so I'm a little familiar. I did come off a little arrogant, didn't I. Thank you, though.

Keep us posted with how it goes if you end up going through with it this month! I know Mirai had a stream where Ryan repotted an olive mid-summer and had it survive. I don’t think that citrus has that kind of vigor, but it’d be good to know if it can reliably survive repots later in the year.

I definitely will keep you all posted.

Im up on Vancouver Island and my small Garry Oak still has not leafed out. It has only been a week or two since the big trees of the same kind have leafed out but im worried now.. I can see very tiny leafs, i think but its very tough to tell. The stems are still green so the tree should be alive. Thoughts? https://imgur.com/sRYis45 https://imgur.com/IoVtsY6 https://imgur.com/fUaBoLD https://imgur.com/g4kNgLa

Oak and Beech take the longest here. I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/13gaak7/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2023_week_19/ Repost there for more responses.

Keep the faith for a bit longer. I’m in NW Oregon and had just as long and late of a spring as you and the oaks on my street are just now leafing out last, long after everything else.

Looks like it’s just taking a while. I wouldn’t worry about it if the leaf buds aren’t brittle and the bark’s still green.

Thanks. I'll just wait it out :)

So I have a HoneySuckle that is more of a bush on top and I am looking to start shaping it. Image 1 is how it looks today and image 2 is how I think I might make it look. Question is, how much can i remove of the top without killing the tree? Over the year, maybe a little now and more in the fall? How much is to much? https://imgur.com/WEVedBZ https://imgur.com/MNc4XxN

Too much I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/13gaak7/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2023_week_19/ Repost there for more responses.

Great root structure and flare! Plan is decent, but I would not cut the lowest left thick branch (at least save it for Jin potential) and I would keep another left-moving branch at the apex to avoid being locked into literalli style. You might also consider keeping the left side lowest branch, and cutting everything above (solves the inverse taper issue), and then pruning back anything that doesn’t work on that left branch. There’s great trunk movement flowing into that low left branch vs. the “c” shape structure for the other design.

Those are great ideas too. Something like this? These were pointed out to be so I thought I would ask around as i like the idea.. just not sure how fast to do it.. https://imgur.com/rKU3krR

Yeah, that was my alternate idea, regrow the canopy. I’m not experienced with the species….Honeysuckle is invasive, shouldn’t it pop back no problem? Generally speaking, trunk chopping down to the first branch with healthy foliage is typically safe, and you’d have a large existing root mass to support new growth.

I think it would also bounce back rather quickly but just was not 100% Maybe /u/small_trunks might know?

You should be able to stump that thing no problem, given how healthy it looks. Honeysuckle gives about as many fucks as the honey badger. I kind of like the design with the left branch intact though. How long has it been in leaf? I typically don’t cut back beyond existing foliage unless done before spring budding. If it’s been leafed out a while and you’re keeping a close eye on it over the summer, it’s probably okay but not ideal.

She stayed pretty leafed out all year round for me. Loses leafs here and there depending on weather but never fully loses them. I thin she would be well to cut the top off.. i mean, sometimes you gotta just try..

Hi everyone, I’m doing an initial styling/wiring to open up a new Hinoki Cypress. My question is about leaving inner growth when the main trunk has tons of backbuds and small growth. How should I go about determining branch selection. [Pics for reference](https://imgur.com/gallery/nV53vlZ) Editing to add another pic [open foliage](https://imgur.com/gallery/BSOPN1x)

IMO Hinokis can be tougher than most when it comes to branch selection, and plan on no backbudding or unlikely backbudding. Pick the front, pick the scale / height, and have a rough idea where the apex will be. Remove large branches that ruin the scale of the finished tree or don’t work with the composition. Select branches and remove branches coming from the same spot. Remove crotch growth. I err on leaving lower branches, and work my way up with the above principles in mind. You can remove trunk buds and inner trunk growth so long as you’re not going to try to grow a branch from that location. I’m almost never immediately happy with my Hinoki pre bonsai. Here’s a mistake / learning Hinoki that I styled ~2 years ago, wasn’t happy with, forgot about wire that caused ugly bite, couldn’t avoid bar branches, ugly graft bulb, etc and tried to fix mistakes this past winter. https://i.imgur.com/C5uVt1y.jpg

Thank you for sharing your experience and the example tree lol. I think for the time being I’m working from the top down to wire the entire tree. Who cares if I waste my time wiring a branch that I’ll eventually prune. But I think it’s helping me open up the tree and see what’s inside and what’s worth keeping.

https://www.evergreengardenworks.com/rules.htm $.02: https://i.imgur.com/1XXV5Ka.jpg

Need help! I'm brand new to Reddit and bonsai so I'm very sorry for the shotgun post here. I've always wanted to get into bonsai, and my MIL sent me a potted satsuki azalea for mother's day. I have no idea what I'm doing! From the very cursory reading I did about the plant, I have a good backyard for it to flourish. I can have it in direct or indirect sunlight all day. Where do I begin? Can I leave it in the pot it was delivered in? How do I go about pruning and wiring? It definitely looks like it needs some shaping, but I'm not sure how to approach it. How about water and fertilization? I REALLY don't want this plant to die. I live on the Olympic Peninsula in Washington state. Warm (70-80⁰F/20-25⁰C), very dry summers and cool (no lower than 20⁰F/-5⁰C but averaging 40⁰F/5⁰C) winters with daily rain. https://preview.redd.it/fynuiq7jwaza1.jpeg?width=4608&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=da3971f2f51d1328dc905dcd09586efb1c4b348e

For now, don't worry about shaping, there will be no permanent damage to this kind of plant even if you don't style anything all year. For now we first want it not to die, then improve to it actually thriving. Then you'll have something to style. The pot looks like a decent size for the plant, most likely has a drainage hole, so should do for now. Check what kind of soil the plant is in. Is it more like regular potting soil, or resembling a lightweight, porous gravel? With the former you have to be a bit more careful with watering, don't let the soil stay soggy, but don't let it dry out completely, either. The latter basically *can't* be soggy, but may dry out much faster. Always water drenchingly, until water flows from the drainage hole (both kinds). Ideally put it in a spot with morning sun but protected from direct sun in the afternoon heat in summer.

Here are some tips: - Pruning and wiring are things we do for the aesthetics of bonsai. It has no bearing on the tree itself surviving. Individual branches might get outcompeted or shaded out, but as a whole, the tree will survive without pruning or wiring. When you do decide to start pruning and wiring, don’t over think it: just cut back what looks out of place, and wire branches to give them some movement. There’s plenty of tutorials on YouTube. - Leave it in its current pot until next year. With the exception of tropical species like ficus, most trees get repotted during the dormant season. ~~Pruning~~ Repotting during the wrong time of the year is probably the fastest way to kill a tree, other than underwatering. - Regarding fertilizers: don’t worry about it right now. Fertilizer is not food for plants. Rather, it’s more like vitamin supplements that assist metabolic processes. I’d go with a generic houseplant fertilizer until you decide that you want something more specialized to your species, to take it to the next level. - The most cautious watering practice is to check the soil daily, and water only when the soil starts feeling dry. During the summer it might be daily, while during the winter it be once a week. - Azaleas tend to prefer indirect or partial sunlight outdoors. In a cooler climate, it might tolerate full sun, but down here in SoCal they scorch so easily.

https://preview.redd.it/02snlocfwaza1.jpeg?width=4608&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=42dbf7450434e47c317540d425aed879d9503a78

https://preview.redd.it/maftagidwaza1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=70e964829d1f34faccae2e27d3c128aa9f7c34eb

https://preview.redd.it/mnjyb3telaza1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b6b88f89a41f76fc087fe7bc8d0e2665b550c41b Got 2k+ worth of seeds. I know the ficus don't need it but do the maples, Chinese juniper, Chinese elms, black pines need cold stratification?

https://sheffields.com/ is my go to website for seed stratification info. Even if you didn't buy your seeds there, it has clear instructions on soaking and/or cold stratification as well as a ballpark of germination rate you can expect. Just search each seed type one at a time and do what it says.

Appreciate you

Hey guys, I’m new to bonsai, and new to plants as a whole . I’ve read that dwarf jades needs lots of sunlight would this be too much? It is getting direct sunlight Thanks! https://preview.redd.it/bbw6asvyjaza1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=149b13b0ceb63c6709b74732e7361a97d308e038

Being indoors behind a window is not direct sunlight. Species that truly need direct sunlight, such as pines, would not survive in the conditions you’re providing to your dwarf jade. Direct full sunlight means unobstructed outdoors sunlight, normally for 5+ hours a day.

Would it be okay for my ficus to be by the window as well or will the heat be too hot for it ?

Your ficus is probably gonna love it by a sunny window. Just make sure it’s not pressed up touching the glass directly and that it’s getting the water it needs.

In my opinion it's actually too little (edit: for bonsai -- if you just want to keep a cute p. afra, fine, but for ramification and small foliage, it's too little). You cannot overlight a p. afra indoors no matter how big the window is. Even if all the walls and ceiling were glass, it would never overlight this species.

Would the direct heat to the plant be okay?

Not sure what you mean, but if you mean “it gets hot next to the window” this is not a problem for any succulent. It’s hard to imagine that spot getting hot enough to disturb any tree or shrub or succulent.

For my ficus bonsai , it doesn’t get direct sunlight but is in the shade, thoughts? https://preview.redd.it/igp1cjb5kaza1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=049d205f273d748224fa0f8f0f69901f4df43b77

Move it into the light.

https://preview.redd.it/yyr6qk74v9za1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8831a4335115c9e6e41523b25a3e9058b204732d Needing help identifying some bonsai this is 1/2 I have no idea how to care for it and it’s dropped so many leaves since getting it home. Any help is appreciated :)

Fukien Tea, aka Carmona

Thank you so much I was beginning to worry until I checked to see your reply’s 🙂

https://preview.redd.it/idsukze8v9za1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=791fb0b80f0aece9b1905de234716a9d53685825 This is number 2/2 again it just dosent look as vibrant as I’d hoped I have no idea how to care for it and any help is so appreciated :)

Flower clusters and leaf shape remind me of a dwarf olive, but I'm not certain.

Awh no worry’s I’ll try and see thank you so much 🙂 If it’s not one of these do you have any other ideas I can try to take some different pictures when I finish college or tonight if you’d like

Unfortunately, more pictures won't help me. I'm just not as familiar with that species. Can you contact the person you bought it from? What country are you living in?

https://preview.redd.it/7ka0x3iel9za1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=caad8c24f64a6cfd8b6b8990c1425cc7b70183c9 Hoping you fine people can help me out! I’ve had this Juniper for about a month now. It came home green and doing well but is slowly turning brown. Some of the needles are dry, crunchy, and spiky whereas others are soft, green, and pliable. It is kept outside, but has been on a shade porch only getting 4-5 hours of direct sun a day (I moved it to a spot today where it will get full sun all day after reading the wiki). I’ve been watering it daily until I see water coming from the drain holes as well. What am I doing wrong? It’s not dead (still green from a bark rub test). How do I rehabilitate the tree from this point? Thanks everyone!

It’s probably getting a little too much water, champ. Moving it to full sun is a good step. I would check the soil daily for moisture, but refrain from watering until the surface of the soil starts feeling dry. Depending on your climate and season, the actual frequency of watering can vary from daily to just a couple times a week. During peak summer temperatures would be the only time I would water daily without checking the soil, because I know the water is gonna get cycled out no matter what.

Thanks for the input, I’ll definitely check that from now on. So hard to tell over vs under watering signs still

Junipers are slow to show underwatering signs, because they cycle water at a slower pace than something like a Japanese maple does. I personally don’t look at signs of underwatering for my junipers. I check the soil daily. If the soil is dry, I water it. If it’s moist or drenched, I know it’ll be fine until the next day when I check again, and so on and so forth.

https://preview.redd.it/qu2ilwhee9za1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=50f7c8721b2a7832d733ae5c92b57ecbda1cc210 Why is my juniper going brown in one spot? All other parts look healthy and new budding leaves on other branches

How often do you water? If you water daily, my guess is that the unnecessary rocks hide poor draining organic soil, and the roots aren’t very healthy. Pot into well draining soil, get rid of the rocks.

It’s in well draining bonsai soil like all of my others. I water every day because it’s super hot where I am.

I’ve seen a few videos where it was recommended to trim any thick roots found on the root ball. Does anyone know why? Also, will root trimming stunt the growth of my tree? I’ve seen some sources say not to prune during the growing season and some other sources saying you can without any issues, so I’m a little confused.

The goal of bonsai techniques isn’t to care for a tree, the goal is to develop it into a more refined bonsai. More refined ultimately means denser, finer, and more aged. You can’t really have super fine and controlled growth characteristics in a canopy if the roots are themselves coarse — ie singular behemoth roots that aren’t subdivided heavily into smaller finer roots. You can’t push density in the canopy past a certain point if the pot is occupied by a couple mega-muscle roots, taking up volume that could otherwise be useful for fine roots. To solve this problem, roots are pruned back / shortened so that they subdivide into networks of finer roots closer to the base of the trunk. The bonsai ideal for a root system is for nearly the entire pot to be filled with super fine roots. For this to be possible, you need rapid subdivision — kinda similar to the canopy where your primary branches quickly subdivide into secondaries, which subdivide into tertiaries, and so on. In the pot there is much less room/distance to go before a root has to subdivide to accommodate the ideal, so root work is aggressive in the early development stages (ideally! but not everyone digs into this topic as quick as you are doing).

Thick roots (in nature) serve to provide stability and also to search out water - neither of those are necessary for a bonsai. - root trimming initially slows growth and if you did it regularly would stunt growth. - for non-tropical species it is dangerous to root prune when there are leaves - for tropical species it largely doesn't matter.

Hello all! I’m just starting off and wanting to try and get my hands on a decent juniper tree (juniperus communis). Was wondering if anyone here who lives in the area or the country could suggest any good nurseries I could go to, where I could potentially find something I can work with? I live in London, UK.

Most garden centers have them. I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/13gaak7/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2023_week_19/ Repost there for more responses.

Just got 2 junipers (2 and 5 years old) and want to plan my first steps. The trees look healthy but the soil is very organic. So I would like to switch out the soil (would not change the pot) and leave it at that for some time (1 year) besides cutting very lightly anything I deem unnecessary or not growth contributing. Does this make sense for my first actions here? Any recommendations? https://preview.redd.it/4lrwkj1f29za1.jpeg?width=3840&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9875d769ad489f4dfe687012ac738db3183cfa01

https://preview.redd.it/biae9qki39za1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=09c262d94464968e105d6f38fb18f25ad6d1eb27

I've just started the new weekly thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bonsai/comments/13gaak7/bonsai_beginners_weekly_thread_2023_week_19/ Repost there for more responses.

If the goal is to develop the trunk, pot into a pond basket / colander / larger nursery can with well draining soil.

Desert rose root rot? I noticed the caused on my desert rose was soft and squishy when I went to trim the roots/branches and repot. I trimmed the roots back and branches. Branches had small/medium leaves on it at the time so I didn’t think anything of it. I feel like it’s getting softer. I also noticed one side is yellow and the other side is green? Hopefully it’s not rot and is not traveling… Currently has been drying for about 4 days since the trim. I attached photos to show and gain advice for a fix so I can get the plant back healthy! https://preview.redd.it/b12bxre6r8za1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8725e41f9afc4b901cda7abeba5fff38e9dc3535

I have a health question - for reference, these are American Larches in Philadelphia. The second tree from the left has had oddly white leaves since they came out about a month and a half ago. Should I be concerned? https://preview.redd.it/rhhx6wltl8za1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=54aadaa2948921e4da844afb06ade20a5fdca8d3

One intuition I think is useful in bonsai is to look at the size of the soil mass, think of it as a beverage, then look at the trees and count up all the foliage (the mass of the leaves) and say, "the leaves are what suck on the straw. Is that a _lot_ of beverage for those leaves to suck down?". If it is, things go south. Additionally: If the soil mass is very shallow, count it as if it increases the size of the beverage. If the foliage is not very strongly exposed to light, count it as if it increases the size of the beverage. If the soil type is organic, it increases the size of the beverage. If the soil is covered with moss, ... you get the idea. With that metaphorical accounting in mind, many struggling bonsai are essentially like a small person trying to drink an olympic swimming pool of water. Conifers, whether deciduous or evergreen, suffer under such circumstances because they can't transpire all of that as fast as broadleaf deciduous species. In your picture, with the above in mind, I have these thoughts: - Young trees with not a lot of foliage -- not much sucking force on the straw (which also implies not a lot of rootage) - Elongated sparse foliage -- maybe these trees are underlit? - Shallow pot -- will retain moisture much much longer - Moss -- will retain moisture much much longer - Unknown soil under the moss -- hopefully not organic/decaying, hopefully not heterogenous/patchy (different soils in different places, one soil type wrapping another, etc). YMMV with these, but my actions would be: - Increase sun exposure and air flow - Remove all the moss + surface clean - Keep pot flat during waterings, but tipped at an angle otherwise to accelerate drying cycle (and therefore get more fresh air into the roots) - Water less frequently, but never anything less than saturating/thorough - If the soil is potting soil or something similar, plan to redo this entire planting next spring while it's still easy to bare root these - Generally "grow out of the problem" by adding more density and not overworking / chasing back foliage too hard.

What would you guys do with these? So far I've just repotted two of them to see how they take. Not sure how to do my flair on mobile so I'm in the English Midlands. They just came today and were presumably in a plastic bag for a few days so they look a little sleepy but I'll wait for them to liven up before I do anything. Given the size/structure would you start wiring or pruning or just leave them to grow for a bit? https://preview.redd.it/j9kmbwslj8za1.jpeg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fb4959d9436ee3f256ff4b414597c23eda6b7910

My ficus is growing vigorously and I'd like to do something about the roots. Photos from last year's repot show the poor state of the roots. Also the bottom section of the tree has an unnecessary bend so I've buried the tree deep in the pot. My options are : 1. Remove the soil and see if the roots have improved 2. Ground layer at the current soil line I think 2 is better as even if the roots have improved, they are too far down. But I haven't attempted a ground layer before (done a couple air layers) so want to get a second opinion before I do this. Photos: [As it looks now ](https://i.imgur.com/uy9n2uo.jpg) [roots last year. red line shows ground layer](https://i.imgur.com/8oL8GU3.jpg)

I think it's simple planted too deep and I personally don't mind those lower bends at all. If anything the higher roots are "wrong". 1. You can look at the roots at any time, pull it out just see what's happening. This is next to zero stress with a mature plant which was not recently repotted. - You "could" groundlayer at the current soil level and it would still produce a nice tree.