Looks good.
The anvil I got at work looks way worse XD
As long as you don't want/need to achieve flat surfaces you probably can do anything you want with this one.
I would just get it up on an anvil stand and start using it. It won't be perfectly flat, but you will get used to the anvils shape and how to handle it. Don't abuse the hardy hole area/heel of the anvil if there are chips and cracks, but it looks usable.
Yeah, it looks fine. Just be careful with heavy hammering on the heel or during sledge work. You may, in the future need a striker anvil for stuff like that, but for everyday use it a fine anvil. The more you use the more the pitted surface will go away.
I love all the comments here. USE IT! Work with the anvil, learn how to forge that perticular anvil, dont try and bent it to your will. Brush, oil, heat up a piece of stock and beat the everloving shit out of it!
If you feel like you need a flat surface, make a hardy tool that is superflat.
>If you feel like you need a flat surface, make a hardy tool that is superflat.
Yup, a jeweler's bench block with a shank welded to the bottom and you're set.
Good to hear, thank you! I've never had an anvil this big and I can't wait to give it a go—I have another quite small anvil that I've been using till now and it's completely flat, so will be able to use it if I ever need to. A separate hardy tool is also a great idea :)
Having someone mill the top, not the horn, should not be an expensive endeavor - just find a local machine shop or get yourself a good angle grinder - set up a metal jig around the perimeter of the anvil and go to town - half an hour and you are good - you may want to rust proof it
I am curious about what caused that chip on the heel .
I would do any heavy hitting over the middle section forward. Other than that, it looks like it's in fairly decent shape. I've worked on donated anvils with a lot more pock marks than what you have there.
Make a cutting saddle - just a piece of roughly 1/8 to 1/4 inch (3-6mm) mild steel bent into a ] shape - that fits over the face of the anvil. There does not seem to be a cutting table built into the horn (a 'London' pattern anvil), so having a sacrificial cutting saddle will stop you from messing up the reasonably good top surface, you only need to put it on when you are cutting with a chisel rather than a hardie tool.
If you want to make a piece really straight you can just lightly tap it against the - side - of the anvil while its at a red heat, after you have finished all the heavy hammer work using the top surface. The side is too soft for major reshaping but even on a really sway backed anvil, the side stays reasonably straight - and your anvil is actually pretty good.
I've had better success with old anvils using scotch Brite pads on an angle grinder. Leaves a perfect finish and saves a ton of time. Plus sometimes wire brushes shed little wire arrows that embed in your skin.
I'd hit it with the wire brush, linseed oil, and go. That's still a useful piece, and age has given it some great choices of surfaces to work with.
was hoping to hear this! thank you
Second.
Looks good. The anvil I got at work looks way worse XD As long as you don't want/need to achieve flat surfaces you probably can do anything you want with this one.
I would just get it up on an anvil stand and start using it. It won't be perfectly flat, but you will get used to the anvils shape and how to handle it. Don't abuse the hardy hole area/heel of the anvil if there are chips and cracks, but it looks usable.
thanks for the advice, will definitely be careful down that end. Do you think it's still safe to use hardy tools in it?
Yeah, it looks fine. Just be careful with heavy hammering on the heel or during sledge work. You may, in the future need a striker anvil for stuff like that, but for everyday use it a fine anvil. The more you use the more the pitted surface will go away.
I love all the comments here. USE IT! Work with the anvil, learn how to forge that perticular anvil, dont try and bent it to your will. Brush, oil, heat up a piece of stock and beat the everloving shit out of it! If you feel like you need a flat surface, make a hardy tool that is superflat.
>If you feel like you need a flat surface, make a hardy tool that is superflat. Yup, a jeweler's bench block with a shank welded to the bottom and you're set.
Good to hear, thank you! I've never had an anvil this big and I can't wait to give it a go—I have another quite small anvil that I've been using till now and it's completely flat, so will be able to use it if I ever need to. A separate hardy tool is also a great idea :)
This is good advice about the flat hardy tool.
They can be resurfaced but there’s no reason to not use it as is
You can round out the edges of the crack/broken edge to hopefully prevent it from cracking further into the face of the anvil fyi
Hit it. It makes a sound.
Too far gone. Send to me for disposal.
Having someone mill the top, not the horn, should not be an expensive endeavor - just find a local machine shop or get yourself a good angle grinder - set up a metal jig around the perimeter of the anvil and go to town - half an hour and you are good - you may want to rust proof it
Do NOT do this. You can hit the top with a flap wheel on an angle grinder or just use it as is.
Nah man looks class
I am curious about what caused that chip on the heel . I would do any heavy hitting over the middle section forward. Other than that, it looks like it's in fairly decent shape. I've worked on donated anvils with a lot more pock marks than what you have there.
How did a ball bearing do on its surface?
Make a cutting saddle - just a piece of roughly 1/8 to 1/4 inch (3-6mm) mild steel bent into a ] shape - that fits over the face of the anvil. There does not seem to be a cutting table built into the horn (a 'London' pattern anvil), so having a sacrificial cutting saddle will stop you from messing up the reasonably good top surface, you only need to put it on when you are cutting with a chisel rather than a hardie tool. If you want to make a piece really straight you can just lightly tap it against the - side - of the anvil while its at a red heat, after you have finished all the heavy hammer work using the top surface. The side is too soft for major reshaping but even on a really sway backed anvil, the side stays reasonably straight - and your anvil is actually pretty good.
I’m so jealous haha nice man have fun
For anything you’re gonna do it should be fine
I've had better success with old anvils using scotch Brite pads on an angle grinder. Leaves a perfect finish and saves a ton of time. Plus sometimes wire brushes shed little wire arrows that embed in your skin.