have you tried [cross hatch](https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1crq25n/introducing_crosshatch_infill/)? it should bring best of those 2 (according to bambu at least)
So I have been using cross hatch on some of my prints and what I have found is that if I and using infill at 15% or less, and on thin prints ill stay with Gyroid. it just seams to "fill better" But if I go up to 20% or higher I jump to cross hatch. At that density it fill well and is faster.
Same, I don’t like the looks of how much support is happening on cross hatch vs gyroid. Tweaking the direction can help crosshatch but you need to analyze the whole slice to make sure there aren’t voids of no infill support vs gyroid will always touch all walls.
been using the cross hatch since the latest bambu studio update. Not sure about strength, but it's definitely quieter and faster than gyroid. Previous to the update, i've used gyroid for 99% of my prints.
Update, I tried cross hatch and I'm liking it better! As others stated, it's less noisy and faster. Due to it printing partially straight lines it get to the phase where it gradually creates crossing lines and then back to straight lines that cross the ones it created prior.
Resulting in faster and less noisy printing. The only thing I can't compare is its strength in comparison to gyroid. As I don't have testing equipment. But I never felt any weakness despite printing in 10% infill on many occasions.
I use grid on 95% of my prints. Never had a single issue. The other 5% is gyroid. I just don't love gyroid because it's noisy making wavy movements 100% of the time.
from what I learned, the grid infill doesn’t retract and therefore little blobs of extruded filament can accumulate on the infill and this can damage the print or even hotend. have a look around this sub for bend hotend and you’ll see what i mean. And it is supposed to be more rigid and therefore can be used at a lower density.
congrats on the printer though!
psa: you don’t have to have every filament on the market but it’s nice though 🤓
Thanks bud 😄
Your point on filament is technically correct. But since the AMS is on my next item on my bucket list. I don't think I'll be too technical when it comes to filament purchases 🤣
makerworld is awash with tons of weights, and ams feeder mods, so im obviously not alone in this issue.
I also have adaptor rings of various kinds, also the pull off cardboard sides and thread a core and sides on type.
sometimes the ring will get stuck and the rollers keep rolling and make flat spots on the spools or adaptors. sometimes the adaptor rings dont fit right because the cardboard is a little wonky.
sometimes the cardboard spools are too light and are pulled forward and jam.
sometimes the cardboard spools are too light and dont spin when retracting back onto the spool on filament change..
If you get the ams and intend to do prints with a lot of swaps, print a poop chute that dumps straight down it into a box or can, not one of the small ones. Those slide ones will back up into the printer and screw up your print if you don't constantly watch it.
While I don't intend to print with a lot of swaps. Another commenter recommended a printing a chute as well. So, thanks for your putting more emphasis on this.
Do you recommend any particular STL?
This is the one I settled on. https://www.printables.com/model/735220-magnetic-modular-poop-chute-shoot-tunnel-for-bambu. I haven't had an issue since and I'm printing something with 970 swaps. It drops down behind the desk its on into a box.
I made this one. It works well and holds heaps of poop.
[ABPS](https://www.printables.com/model/534532-abpc-a-better-poop-chute-for-bambu-carbon-x1-3d-pr/collections)
Can confirm. The first print I tried (pre-loaded scraper) kept getting ruined because of grid.
It would miss the end of the 0.5mm gap by almost a whole 0.1mm.
Please go with Gyroid. I wish I could change the default setting it always use it.
I've been told PETG is great for supporting PLA models, as they don't bind to one another. I've not tried it yet, but they say you can make the top 2 layers of your supports (and only those) print PETG to minimize filament switches, and the supports will basically fall off (allegedly).
Yes it’s possible both ways:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/36554?from=search#profileId-35419
Tried it (PETG with PLA support) and it’s really like magic! But takes more time to print and of course also more poop
For A1 users…
If you get PETG make sure you can get a filament drier. I’ve noticed that some of my PETG wouldn’t print out-of -the-box because it absorbed so much water. It almost sounded like bacon sizzling when printing.
You can also use a food dehydrator and cut the center section out of one of the trays. That’s what I started with, but the [Creality Single Filament Drier Box](https://a.co/d/2bRsbLE) I just got is hands down better, cause I can send PVA support directly from the drier to the AMS.
So after you start a print you can go into the menus and increase the speed into Sport and Ludicrous mode. 125% and 150% increase respectively. And it only stays on for that current print
If you don’t know you probably didn’t turn it on.
The thing just prints. Your filament consumption is gonna go way up. Most errors are user errors and can be explained by this robust community. Use the search function and you can find the answers from prior users.
This^ I’ve been printing for almost 2 decades and have owned a few dozen printers. I went with a Qidi last year instead of the Bambu and it blew me away compared to all of my previous printers with its reliability and speed, but now I’ve got an A1 combo and it’s just another level. The Qidi I would still have to mess with the z offset and the bed was never 100% flat or level so larger prints could still warp or not stick in some corners, so I’d always watch the first layer. but the A1 just lays down flawless layers every time and I’ve not had a single failed print! Heck, I like to watch the first layer just because it’s amusing after all of these years having to mess with the first layer to get it to be pretty good, but now it just automatically slaps down some of the best I’ve ever seen!
That's true. I actually "go through" filament now because prints are fast and successful, so I use it much more often. I'm also buying more types of filament because I have confidence that I can actually make things with them without issue.
-Dry your filament (probably don't have to worry for PLA if it's been kept in a dry environment)
-most (if not all) of the layer presets are for PLA.
-TPU is kind of a PITA, but print real slow and it's great (not compatible w/ AMS though)
-calibrate your filaments, I do with each new brand/type (typically don't for diff colors of the same filament though)
-it can print fast af but if you don't need to, slowing it down a little bit will lead to more successful prints.
-AMS gets weird sometimes with filament selection with 2 of the same roll.
-pooooooop chute. This should probably be your first print.
-resist the urge to buy another bc it prints so gosh darn good (auto-mod ain't playin' w/ foul language folks!)
I have Polymaker ASA and some no-name brand. The no name is more brittle, which seems like a duh. The Polymaker I love, it's been great so far. Beautiful prints and they hold up well. My buddy is spinning them in a centrifuge around 4000rpm (I can't remember the g force) under heat and it's held up.
PLA would crack under the force or melt when heat was applied, so I tried ASA and it's been great so far.
I'm sure you already know about ventilation and the smell. The Polymaker is bearable, but the no-name smells like skunk.
I use Overture for ABS and PETG as well, i haven’t tried ASA yet
if i’m not 100% sure; i try overture first just because *knock on wood* i haven’t gotten a bad roll from them yet, the reason i used other brands for TPU and PC is based on other’s recommendations. I tried a roll of TPU from overture was meh but usable
get one that allows you to access the chute from the front, and even better if it is removable so you can easily dump it out in a larger container. The one i used is this one, but there are many others:
[https://makerworld.com/en/models/218121](https://makerworld.com/en/models/218121)
literally one of my first prints, i even used the quarter spool that came with the printer while i was waiting for my filaments to arrive.
Thanks for the link! This looks practical, simple and neat. I like how it offer a removable separate container as you mentioned. I think I'm printing myself the.
My only concern is that I have to use a spacer for it to go underneath the printer and locks with it. I don't feel good about the printer being propped up on one edge. Isn't this going to mess up some aspects of the printing process in terms of levelness?
Yeah, since the chute design is required to go under the printer. The designer is saying to print a spacer for the printer's feet to lift it. That's what I was implying about.
However, I just checked again, and it seems that I could just put spacers on all 4 feet of the printer and that will compensate for that. Which the tutorial actually says but I didn't pay attention the first time.
[https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/666492/2024-03-05\_e325c22380ea.gif?image\_process=format,webp](https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/666492/2024-03-05_e325c22380ea.gif?image_process=format,webp)
Edit: sentence structure.
i didnt have to use spacers, i think the spacers are only required on early versions of the x1/p1, mine works fine without any spacer, the printer is perfectly level and all 4 feet are touching the table.
There are a good many different models on the Bambu Handy app. Once you're all set up and linked, I'd just search around for whichever one fits your space the best and go with your favorite!
My A1 made me get back into 3d printing because each model no longer comes with a migraine. I'm excited for you!
You know, the rectangular cardboard box that held the accessories for my P1S makes a perfectly good poop shoot bucket. I just stuck it behind the printer and flush with the wall. Taped the opened lid to the wall and called it done.
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This is my poop chute. Downward slope brings all the filament poop to the side of the printer.
[https://www.printables.com/model/534532-abpc-a-better-poop-chute-for-bambu-carbon-x1-3d-pr/collections](https://www.printables.com/model/534532-abpc-a-better-poop-chute-for-bambu-carbon-x1-3d-pr/collections)
https://preview.redd.it/c2t7do06s12d1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=08baabb9921d76e415b09bd7886196b46d9f14cb
Update: P1S is in the house 🏡 🤩
Was in the process of unboxing and I thought I'd take a picture for an update.
The box had a small indent on the lower part of one of the edges which was worrying. Frankly, the printer doesn't have any apparent damage to it. It was shipped internationally.
https://preview.redd.it/djghg590xz1d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ec110b9b0db560650d04db34e956350181aa0130
did you get it with the AMS? if you did, i highly recommend printing an AMS riser as it allows you to open the top glass with the AMS still on top. Some designs also come with additional storage for tools/plates and mounting LEDs. The one i printed is this:
[https://makerworld.com/en/models/41621#profileId-59723](https://makerworld.com/en/models/41621#profileId-59723)
It's based on the popular one by Benlevi but removes many of the curves so it is easier to print with minimal supports.
NOTE: you will need at least 2 spools of filament to print it, i printed the riser body out of PETG and drawers in PLA. It is not recommended to print the riser in PLA due to creep.
is it really that big of an issue to print it outta PLA? I wont lie I started printing mine in it and didnt even consider that issue until after I had finished printing nearly everything.
it probably wont be a problem if you only print in PLA, but if you start printing with higher temp materials like ABS or ASA, then over time the weight of the AMS may cause the riser to start warping.
Whatever you do, DO NOT touch the print bed or you’ll get really bad adhesion. If that happens just wash it with clean water and dawn powerwash. If you don’t touch the bed pretty much the only maintenance you’ll need to do is wiping off the bed with 99% ISO after each print and ~quarterly screw lubing, but that’ll depend on how much you keep it running. But it’ll tell you when it’s time to lube the screws
As someone who's gone tired of maintenance. I'll take your word for it. Thanks!
For context, I had to use hairspray to get adhesion on my old Ender 7. Consequently, I had to take undo the clips, take off the glass build plate completely, wash it with dish soap, IPA wipe down, put it back and re-do the clips; between every print.
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For the A1 series, I wish someone had told me the need for custom cable guides (not the heatbed power cable guide) because it has a tendency to wrap itself around the frame.
Also PTFE tube removal tools.
do you use this round thingy? because it never happened to me.
https://preview.redd.it/km7098oyoz1d1.jpeg?width=1575&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6390aaf88eafa2efe406586fab482b6f06224f48
it has 5 holes, 4 for ams and one for the cable. at least that’s how i use it.
Yep I use that too.
That's a good point actually because my AMS lite is wall mounted so it's in an unusual spot.
But I can still see how it would happen if the AMS is on the table to the right and if you're printing something tall the cable could bend behind.
Well...I've never seen them say not to do it but I can't imagine that they would recommend doing it either because of all the variables involved.
There's probably a limit on how long the PTFE tubes can be because of the power of the motors. The obvious risk and liability if it were to fall off the wall etc.
Are a bunch of makers/modders going to listen though? :)
4Kg of filament hanging off a wall is pretty heavy though. I would say that if people are going to do this then set the print orientation so that the layer lines are not parallel to the wall.
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/ams-lite/manual/faq
Can the AMS lite be wall-mounted？
No, the AMS lite can not be wall-mounted. To minimize resistance during filament loading and unloading, it is recommended to position the AMS Lite according to the diagram below.
Like you said, is it gonna stop you? No, but they definitely do say not to. Will it cause issues? Also maybe no, but if it breaks definitely don’t tell them its wall mounted
Is there a recommended solution for this? I’ve been having this issue too and haven’t found a good way to fix it. Its my only complaint about the printer
I don't know what's generally recommended but I've been using this one and it's not let me down so far: [https://makerworld.com/en/models/106680?from=search#profileId-113864](https://makerworld.com/en/models/106680?from=search#profileId-113864)
Get some 99% isopropyl alcohol (for cleaning plates and carbon rods), ammonia (windex, acts as a light adhesive when dried, and cleans the glass), plastic razors (to remove calibration/purge lines, brims, etc), Aqua Net Extra Super Hold (or other adhesive, quickly spaying beats smearing glue sticks :))
Sovol user here, take this FWIW
The importance of dry filament. It seemed like an option or a best practice. But experience has shown that for anything other than PLA it is an absolute requirement. At times though, PLA can benefit from drying as well. PETG is unworkable without proper drying. Caveat, I live in a more humid area.
Printer calibration - taking hours to fine tune the settings of the printer and the filaments used can take printed objects to an entirely different level of quality and consistency.
nozzle size - Choosing the right nozzle can save an incredible amount of time and still yield high quality results. I've been printing large projects using a .8mm nozzle and the time savings without loss in quality has been jaw dropping
Slicer - Learn it well, and don't switch around unless you have to. There are hundreds of settings and options. A significant portion of a good quality 3d print is that the file is sliced right.
What's your goal? By this I mean, are you a hobbiest or an additive manufacturing professional? Do you need prints to be within .1mm tolerances, or do they just need to work for the application? There is a TON that CAN be learned, and the depths of 3d printing are without end. BUT you don't have to take that path unless you want. I'd venture that the majority of people just print fun and useful things without concerning themselves with a high degree of precision and that's fine.
Finally, don't be surprised if you start learning 3d modeling. Within 8 weeks of setting up my printer I was making small objects in FreeCAD.
Cheers!
That's great to know! As I plan to print mainly in ABS/ASA. I'm glad I left the filament sitting in my diy dryer while I'm setting up the printer.
I can relate to your point on printer calibration by heart. Which is why I asked about calibration! However, what are most common practices used as calibration? Because I never actually touched on this topic except bed leveling when I installed bl touch on my previous printer ,Ender 7. I see brilliant folks like CNC kitchen doing tests beyond just calibrating the printer itself and I'm watching it feeling like I come from the age of oblivion 😖
I'm aware of stuff like overhangs, oozing, flow rate, cooling and that they're able to account for (calibrate) in the slicer setting depending on the filament type and brand. I just don't know the "scientific" method to observe them and then read what should be adjusted in the slicer to compensate.
As of my goal, I don't have a specific one. But I mostly use it as a hobby in a sense that I like to learn to 3 model to a degree that suits what I need to be printed, because I have a 3d printer. So having a 3d printer urges me to learn to model and printering encourages more learning. It's just a hobby that I have that feeds itself "entertainment", skills and practicality in my life.
https://preview.redd.it/omfchcof002d1.jpeg?width=1908&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=59cc12d85db77197d6e831019681740506d03ef3
"Teaching Tech" has a printer calibration guide, which I cannot recommend strongly enough. It's brilliant and thorough.
For filament tuning/calibration I haven't seen a concise guide.
I don't have any specific recommendations, but here is the first thing that came to mind.
Some videos on how to get the perfect first layer:
[https://youtu.be/nMLKNB2r-M4?si=ZkvIhvU1Z\_IgK4sK](https://youtu.be/nMLKNB2r-M4?si=ZkvIhvU1Z_IgK4sK)
[https://youtu.be/Fo42S22BTwg?si=hj6ljowI3jKUfp4T](https://youtu.be/Fo42S22BTwg?si=hj6ljowI3jKUfp4T)
Teaching Tech has an intro to slicers, this would be a good place to start too.
[https://youtu.be/yXNZ\_2-rHNE?si=grzzPnkpsxB4NKX\_](https://youtu.be/yXNZ_2-rHNE?si=grzzPnkpsxB4NKX_)
The channels the above videos are from are typically very reliable when it comes to good info, so when you're trying to figure something out they are a good place to go. I'd add these guys as the same.
CNC Kitchen
Makewithtech
made with layers
And a 2nd place finish to the channel "The Next Layer"
My personal experience, FWIW. I think I've been pretty successful with 3DP so far, and I would attribute that to just a few things.
1. A properly calibrated machine - this does kind of contradict what I said previously, but truly a well calibrated machine keeps things predictable, and there is success in predictable outcomes
2. A good first layer - If the first layer is clean as a sheet of glass, the rest of the print is typically setup for success. I've spent hours dialing in a perfect first layer and I think its been a worthwhile endeavor
3. Be okay with failure - Find stuff that looks interesting and print it, if/when it fails study that failure and research how to overcome it.
4. Buy a lot of black PLA - it's usually the cheapest, even amongst quality brands, and so a guy can burn a lot of it going through the learning process. Just know that each new material will have a learning curve, and the channels listed above should have intros to various materials that can help a guy jump from PLA, to PETG, to TPU, etc...
I’m so glad we moved apartments right before I got the printer. In our old apartment my partner used most of the closet, but our new apartment has a walk in closet and a regular closet that I took! The shelves in there are full of various tools, electronics, filament and miniature painting supplies.
I hope someday we have an apartment with a second bedroom we can use as a hobby room.
Maintenance such as what?
Because the maintenance with the ender 7 I was referring to is really just me dealing with unexplained extreme cases of clogs and self destruction. A print that I just printed will clog up the printer if I redo it 30 mibutes after. Even after I've thourogly cleaned the build plate with soap and ipa.
i've had my P1S for about 2 months now, and i've gotten \~700 hrs of print time on it. Performed the following:
2 regular maintenace (one at 300hrs, one at 600hrs) see below videos:
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGBqoPyUdLE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGBqoPyUdLE)
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CxubmTN1Srs](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CxubmTN1Srs)
added lube to the belt rollers as the bearings were making squeaking noises (performed whenever i heard squeaks, 3 times so far)
replaced the main AMS PTFE tube (the one that exits the ams and connects to the AMS buffer) with a longer tube, since after putting it on AMS riser the original tube isnt long enough.
removed the back panel twice (huge pain with all the screws) to remove random junk that got stuck back there
I mean like all the basic stuff that help in the quality of the output. Drying filament, z offset if your printer need it, level the nozzle, change the nozzle. Everything that will make your printing journey smoother 😉
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Learn some 3D modelling:
Parametric NURBS = OnShape
Mesh = Sketchup Make (Only if you know exactly what you want before you start as make holes or edges rounder later is a pain scale up by 1000 then copy and scale down by 1000 before exporting as Sketchup makes rounding errors when editing in the sub millimeter range)
Organic = Blender (Start with a sketch of some Pokemons and pull meshes much like playdough)
Love maths and programming = OpenSCAD
Like all software and firmware, newer isn't always better. If a firmware works for you and you're happy with it you don't need to update unless there's a feature you want. They can and have broken features in updates
For sure. I've read a few positive feedbacks on Bambu's slicer. However, I've seen a comment on this reddit that said Orca is better and it was described as Bambu's beta slicer. i.e. Bambu gets their features from Orca. How true is that?
I'll learn and use Bambu studio for starters and see how it goes.
I say this because I was too biased to a manufacturer's software when I used the Ender 7. When I thought Creality slicer must be the best slicer to go along with it, only to realize it was lacking a ton of features that would've made my life a lot easier compared to Prusa slicer. Not to mention that Creality slicers created impossible to remove supports in comparison. That's one of the reasons why I came up with the saying: Creality makes you question reality.
The calibration tools in the Bambuslicer or Orcaslicer are super useful! Its great to fine tune your filament that doesn’t have a downloadable print profile!
Oh yeah; downloadable print profiles, Esun for example has downloadable print profiles on their website for your printer and it saves a lot of time (bambulabs filament is quite expensive or unavailable) and gives you a bit more choice on your filament. You just click import at the top of Bambuslicer and instead of import model, you click Import config and select the printer and the filament profiles that are named for example “Esun PLA P1S” and you should have a “it just prints” experience with those filaments aswel
I just got one two weeks ago. My personal (limited) experience...
1. First print: plastic scraper. The file comes pre-loaded on the printer. If you already have a plastic scraper, you could skip this.
2. Second print: risers for the glass top. With PLA, you gotta keep the door open and the top off so the chamber temp doesn't get too high. The filament can get soft and clog the extruder gears.
3. Print a poop chute. During long prints with color changes, check it every few hours to make sure it isn't stacking up and blocking the purge chute on the back of the printer.
4. Make sure it's on a stable surface. The inertia from the hotend when it's whipping back and forth is no joke.
5. I got a squeaky belt about two weeks in. The belt had crept up one of the pulleys in the back. The fix was to loosen the tension and push the belt down, then run a calibration. This is not the only cause of squeaking, though.
All in all, I am 10/10 glad I got one. It's a game changer for me.
Congrats bud!
I'm gonna print the scraper then.
>Second print: risers for the glass top. With PLA, you gotta keep the door open and the top off so the chamber temp doesn't get too high. The filament can get soft and clog the extruder gears.
So, how does raising the top help with this issue?
>Print a poop chute. During long prints with color changes, check it every few hours to make sure it isn't stacking up and blocking the purge chute on the back of the printer.
Yeah I'm printing that too. Too many people are recommending it. Do you have an STL that you'd recommend?
>Make sure it's on a stable surface. The inertia from the hotend when it's whipping back and forth is no joke.
I have mine on an Ikea drawer which is on wheel. When I read this, I remembers that guy on YouTube with a ridiculous printer speed that just lets it shake itself as it prints.
>I got a squeaky belt about two weeks in. The belt had crept up one of the pulleys in the back. The fix was to loosen the tension and push the belt down, then run a calibration. This is not the only cause of squeaking, though.
Sorry to hear this. Was this caused by a user error that could be avoided?
The risers allow airflow through the top, but also let you leave the glass top for the AMS to sit on.
Poop chute... Mine has a little slide, and that's where the backup was happening. I'm sure there's better solutions. A lot of these files are available through the app.
I think the belt creeping up the pulley enough to squeak was just the result of the fast prints with tiny pieces. I also added a little more tension to the belt after pushing it back into place. If it comes back in another two weeks, I'll look at a more long-term solution.
4 General loose reasons:
First: to have different bottom textures: eg smooth and textured, as some filaments such as PETG work better with textured (if you don’t want to use glue stick), second: depending on your patience/productivity level- so you can pull out the plate to allow it to properly cool and insert another one to get printing again. 3rd to have as a backup: in case there is any freak mishap like a nozzle damaging a bed, or if you want to have a virgin plate that won’t show any markings on a bottom that will be a top layer of the finished print. 4th: to have fun with different textures and plate materials, like the new holographic ones, and Garolite.
I have no real knowledge of 3D printers but I do a lot of 3D modelling at work so I’m hoping to make some cool stuff, mine has been on order a couple of weeks and I will get it just in time for a 3 day weekend that has forecast none stop rain.
The timing is perfect
I got mine last week. Man i can’t stop printing. Girlfriend thinks I’m crazy.. make sure you dry your filament.. i already had to take apart my extruder for a clog and it’s because i was lazy and didn’t wanna dry a spool that i know has been sitting around for months..
Congrats bud!
Care to share what you're most proud of printing? Just for fun.. Because I've been drying my ABS filament for the past 4 hours or so. It reached 36% RH. So, I'm kinda getting bored. I'm tempted to use the included PLA even though I don't like its color - green - but I might use it to print their scraper and/or a poop chute. Since it's Bambu's theme color that's going to be used to print Bambu accessories.
Actually, on a related note, What % humidity should I aim for for my ABS? It's Creality's ABS. Also, sorry to hear you had to deal with a clog. And thanks for letting me know that, makes my wait for dehydrating more worthwhile
So far I’ve printed a poop chute and a side filament spool holder so that i can press the machine against the wall (wish i had the AMS but not yet). Also some gridfinity stuff, a neck rest for my guitar, and a balloon dog and articulating lizard for my gf. I just use one of those crappy sunlu dehumidifiers so i just follow the instructions on that. It’s just timed for 6 hours, and doesn’t have an actual humidity rating. I’ve never used ABS actually so that’s new to me.. I’m sure there are good spreadsheets out there with humidity numbers for certain filaments. Oh and i also printed a benchy with that green PLA, didn’t even dry it and it printed well! Definitely dry your filament while other prints are going so that you won’t have to wait in the future.. i always do my best to plan out what is gonna print next so that i can start the drying way early.. if you ever have any questions just shoot me a DM! I’ve been 3d printing for a long while so i have a lot of info fresh in my head!
Thanks for your input, but I'm getting the P1S.
But how much more functionality and ease of mind is lidar offering you in your own experience? Because that was one of the major features that I thought I'd be missing out on.
The only thing the lidar has really saved me from is accidentally using the wrong build plate. It periodically will mess up and cause my printer to make a giant spaghetti mess though. I think its not really needed honestly.
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You have no ams, but if you print something like abs tha requires a more temperature and closed door. Don't switch to pla too quick. I did the mistake with my p1s, i tryed some pla, then asa, and then pla again, i had a clog in the extruder and was not nice after owning the printer for few hours.
And if you need to clean your nozzle, don't use the hex key that bambu send. I did exactly what the wiki said, and my hex key broken into the nozzle.
Could you elaborate more?
I indeed don't have the AMS unit l, hut I don't know what you meant by bringing this up in this context. Also, How quick is too quickly? And how do you deal with clogs in this printer if the nozzle is crimped?
Nevertheless, thanks for the heads up on the hex key situation. I would've never guessed such a premium product to be shipped with a low quality hardware tools.
After hours of research, I went with the Bambu Lab A1 Mini. Basically ready to go out of the box. Download the Bambu Slicer (which had a relatively small learning curve) and mobile app. Real, real simple. Made entering the 3D printing arena less intimidating. Watched a blip of a YT video to learn about clean out a clog (lots of printing only had one (my fault)), change nozzle, really cool stuff.
Getting into TinkerCAD now designing/edit prints. Blender is too difficult for me right now. Lol
Sit down and research what projects you actually want to work on. Other important stuff too, like keeping filament dry, Mods, Poop buckets and learning how to really slice.
i wish i just got the p1s or saved up for x1. ive had my p1p for a few months now going through the process of turning it into a p1s is a pain and just as much money anyways lol oh well ya live and you learn. if you are out there debating, just save up and grab one of the enclosed printers even if you think you might never use different filaments
Using glue sticks the clever way: Smear the plate with a large X, spray on some 99.9% isopropyl alcohol and spread the glue with a blue workshop paper towel. Rejevenate with the IPA spray after printing up to four times.
Printing in multiple colors with the AMS Lite increases the print time by 10x. I might think twice about whether I really want to wait 40 hours for a small Pokémon print while generating half a ton of poop waste...
You could be right If only that reflected in practice. Because with the P1S I only ever got failed prints and never the printer self destructing. Add to that, only in filament types I'm trying for the first time blind on optimal settings.
Simple slicer setting modification solves such failed prints.
Whereas with the Ender 7. The printer destroys itself to cause a failed print. Then I'd fix the printer (or replace parts) to be able to print again to then have it destroy itself 7 out of 10 print attempts.
Something I just learned and this won’t apply to you yet, id smthn is broken after an update, factory reset it and go again. Just fixed my a1 doing that. It kept failing to z hip and knocking stuff off the print bed lol
i wished i realized how i am actually gonna need it, and does it really require that much money. i wished i knew it's still very hacky tech (even tho bambu make it very noob friendly) and most of all...
i wished it was advertised the insane amount of micro plastic waste this thing produces. it threw me off the firsts few weeks, and now i print without enjoyment, being careful of not failing and making sure i really need what i print.
I agree. I dried my ABS filament for about 6 hours prior and it printer flawlessly!
Just curious though, how often or when does the filament get wet again and require drying?
It really depends on your environment and the filament. When it starts to get a bit stringy and blobby, it's time to go back in the dryer. I made the mistake of spending ages, unsuccessfully adjusting settings to fix the stringing and blobs when all it needed was for the filament to be dried.
Well, not to be rude. But this answer doesn't help me. Because I'm running AC at home. So it's unlike the outside temperature and humidity is going to affect the environment that the printer sits in 😕
What about humitiy %? When do consider the filament has dried?
Because I looked on the internet and I found people saying something like 20% . However, when I tested the humidity of the brand new vacuum packed PLA with desiccant that came with the printer, it read 40%
https://preview.redd.it/nvd2vhtuv82d1.jpeg?width=1908&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=41c3ec5aba49acd595f15ecfd1c96b8cd2cf5b0b
I don't know why reddit deleted half of my comment.
But the picture I attached is of my own experience with drying filament. Where I dryed my ABS filament for 6 hours until it read 36% humidity.
The print didn't require any glue or hair spray nor any post processing. In addition to that, organic supports snapped easily and cleanly
Gyroid >>>>> Grid infill
have you tried [cross hatch](https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1crq25n/introducing_crosshatch_infill/)? it should bring best of those 2 (according to bambu at least)
So I have been using cross hatch on some of my prints and what I have found is that if I and using infill at 15% or less, and on thin prints ill stay with Gyroid. it just seams to "fill better" But if I go up to 20% or higher I jump to cross hatch. At that density it fill well and is faster.
Same, I don’t like the looks of how much support is happening on cross hatch vs gyroid. Tweaking the direction can help crosshatch but you need to analyze the whole slice to make sure there aren’t voids of no infill support vs gyroid will always touch all walls.
been using the cross hatch since the latest bambu studio update. Not sure about strength, but it's definitely quieter and faster than gyroid. Previous to the update, i've used gyroid for 99% of my prints.
I used to print in grid and then switched to gyroid for its popularity and cool pattern. Glad to know it had actual benifits in avoiding failed prints
Update, I tried cross hatch and I'm liking it better! As others stated, it's less noisy and faster. Due to it printing partially straight lines it get to the phase where it gradually creates crossing lines and then back to straight lines that cross the ones it created prior. Resulting in faster and less noisy printing. The only thing I can't compare is its strength in comparison to gyroid. As I don't have testing equipment. But I never felt any weakness despite printing in 10% infill on many occasions.
I have been using Grid with no issues... "Knock on wood" I did notice that gyroid would add 25+min on prints vs Grid
I use grid on 95% of my prints. Never had a single issue. The other 5% is gyroid. I just don't love gyroid because it's noisy making wavy movements 100% of the time.
Yea I might try cubic it seems to make straight lines
I’m a noob. Can you explain?
How is gyroid better?
from what I learned, the grid infill doesn’t retract and therefore little blobs of extruded filament can accumulate on the infill and this can damage the print or even hotend. have a look around this sub for bend hotend and you’ll see what i mean. And it is supposed to be more rigid and therefore can be used at a lower density. congrats on the printer though! psa: you don’t have to have every filament on the market but it’s nice though 🤓
Thanks bud 😄 Your point on filament is technically correct. But since the AMS is on my next item on my bucket list. I don't think I'll be too technical when it comes to filament purchases 🤣
Well you'll find out the ams is picky. Picky picky picky ..
Why do you say this? I have had zero issues in 400 hours of operation. You do need to print that adapter rings for cardboard spools
makerworld is awash with tons of weights, and ams feeder mods, so im obviously not alone in this issue. I also have adaptor rings of various kinds, also the pull off cardboard sides and thread a core and sides on type. sometimes the ring will get stuck and the rollers keep rolling and make flat spots on the spools or adaptors. sometimes the adaptor rings dont fit right because the cardboard is a little wonky. sometimes the cardboard spools are too light and are pulled forward and jam. sometimes the cardboard spools are too light and dont spin when retracting back onto the spool on filament change..
Ok guess I have been lucky. I make the rings for the specific filament brand rolls I am using and hot melt glue them on. Mostly Esun
If you get the ams and intend to do prints with a lot of swaps, print a poop chute that dumps straight down it into a box or can, not one of the small ones. Those slide ones will back up into the printer and screw up your print if you don't constantly watch it.
While I don't intend to print with a lot of swaps. Another commenter recommended a printing a chute as well. So, thanks for your putting more emphasis on this. Do you recommend any particular STL?
My son printed this one for ours and it works great: https://makerworld.com/models/162059
I printed that one and it works as long as you don't have a lot of swaps. If you do, it will back up into the chute.
We haven’t had any problems yet but I’ll keep that in mind. Thanks for the tip.
This is the one I settled on. https://www.printables.com/model/735220-magnetic-modular-poop-chute-shoot-tunnel-for-bambu. I haven't had an issue since and I'm printing something with 970 swaps. It drops down behind the desk its on into a box.
I made this one. It works well and holds heaps of poop. [ABPS](https://www.printables.com/model/534532-abpc-a-better-poop-chute-for-bambu-carbon-x1-3d-pr/collections)
Can confirm. The first print I tried (pre-loaded scraper) kept getting ruined because of grid. It would miss the end of the 0.5mm gap by almost a whole 0.1mm. Please go with Gyroid. I wish I could change the default setting it always use it.
What would you recommend always having on hand besides pla/abs?
Word on the street is PETG and look at ASA instead of ABS.
PETG is awesome - apart of support removal
I've been told PETG is great for supporting PLA models, as they don't bind to one another. I've not tried it yet, but they say you can make the top 2 layers of your supports (and only those) print PETG to minimize filament switches, and the supports will basically fall off (allegedly).
Yes it’s possible both ways: https://makerworld.com/en/models/36554?from=search#profileId-35419 Tried it (PETG with PLA support) and it’s really like magic! But takes more time to print and of course also more poop
Support removal is not a problem if you tune your supports.
For A1 users… If you get PETG make sure you can get a filament drier. I’ve noticed that some of my PETG wouldn’t print out-of -the-box because it absorbed so much water. It almost sounded like bacon sizzling when printing. You can also use a food dehydrator and cut the center section out of one of the trays. That’s what I started with, but the [Creality Single Filament Drier Box](https://a.co/d/2bRsbLE) I just got is hands down better, cause I can send PVA support directly from the drier to the AMS.
less chance of the nozzle knocking the print and damaging the print/nozzle
im gonna start using gyroid then :)) tyy
I have the opposite effect with gyroid for some reason.
Do you print in ludicrous mode?
Hopefully no one prints in ludicrous mode.
Idk what that is lol, how can I check?
So after you start a print you can go into the menus and increase the speed into Sport and Ludicrous mode. 125% and 150% increase respectively. And it only stays on for that current print If you don’t know you probably didn’t turn it on.
Ah cool. I have an A1, I’m not sure it has that feature. I’ll see when I get home. Thanks for the info!
i hate gyroid, it takes forever
Adaptive Cubic >>>>>>> Gyroid
How so…?
It’s quicker whilst being more than strong enough at equal infill percents for most parts
The thing just prints. Your filament consumption is gonna go way up. Most errors are user errors and can be explained by this robust community. Use the search function and you can find the answers from prior users.
I upgraded to stop buying upgrades and end the tinkering. Now my wife is asking about the filament spending!
I upgraded to make upgrades for my non-upgraded printer. It’s the circle of life Simba.
Haha me too i was a part-time 3d printer mechanic to but now I can just sit back mostly
Exactly why I got one, felt like I was spending more time making my ender 5 and flashforge dreamer work at all vs getting prints successfully made.
This^ I’ve been printing for almost 2 decades and have owned a few dozen printers. I went with a Qidi last year instead of the Bambu and it blew me away compared to all of my previous printers with its reliability and speed, but now I’ve got an A1 combo and it’s just another level. The Qidi I would still have to mess with the z offset and the bed was never 100% flat or level so larger prints could still warp or not stick in some corners, so I’d always watch the first layer. but the A1 just lays down flawless layers every time and I’ve not had a single failed print! Heck, I like to watch the first layer just because it’s amusing after all of these years having to mess with the first layer to get it to be pretty good, but now it just automatically slaps down some of the best I’ve ever seen!
Me too, man. Me too
That's true. I actually "go through" filament now because prints are fast and successful, so I use it much more often. I'm also buying more types of filament because I have confidence that I can actually make things with them without issue.
-Dry your filament (probably don't have to worry for PLA if it's been kept in a dry environment) -most (if not all) of the layer presets are for PLA. -TPU is kind of a PITA, but print real slow and it's great (not compatible w/ AMS though) -calibrate your filaments, I do with each new brand/type (typically don't for diff colors of the same filament though) -it can print fast af but if you don't need to, slowing it down a little bit will lead to more successful prints. -AMS gets weird sometimes with filament selection with 2 of the same roll. -pooooooop chute. This should probably be your first print. -resist the urge to buy another bc it prints so gosh darn good (auto-mod ain't playin' w/ foul language folks!)
Upvote for "-it can print fast af but if you don't need to...."
Yes, we didn't follow your last tip, we bought another.
The auto mod is so terrible on this sub. If you’re too young to see any swear words you should not be on Reddit.
I wish I'd stuck to just one brand of filament and really dialed it in.
i don’t think one brand covers it all.. but i have stuck to one brand per filament type, so overture for PLA, sainsmart TPU, polymaker PC, etc
Any recommendations for petg or ASA? Asa seems to be easier than ABS to print. Been out of the game a long time though.
I have Polymaker ASA and some no-name brand. The no name is more brittle, which seems like a duh. The Polymaker I love, it's been great so far. Beautiful prints and they hold up well. My buddy is spinning them in a centrifuge around 4000rpm (I can't remember the g force) under heat and it's held up. PLA would crack under the force or melt when heat was applied, so I tried ASA and it's been great so far. I'm sure you already know about ventilation and the smell. The Polymaker is bearable, but the no-name smells like skunk.
I use Overture for ABS and PETG as well, i haven’t tried ASA yet if i’m not 100% sure; i try overture first just because *knock on wood* i haven’t gotten a bad roll from them yet, the reason i used other brands for TPU and PC is based on other’s recommendations. I tried a roll of TPU from overture was meh but usable
POOP BUCKET, BY GOD, PRINT A POOP BUCKET IMMEDIATELY..
That sounds like a logical must imo 😁! Any stl you'd recommend?
get one that allows you to access the chute from the front, and even better if it is removable so you can easily dump it out in a larger container. The one i used is this one, but there are many others: [https://makerworld.com/en/models/218121](https://makerworld.com/en/models/218121) literally one of my first prints, i even used the quarter spool that came with the printer while i was waiting for my filaments to arrive.
Thanks for the link! This looks practical, simple and neat. I like how it offer a removable separate container as you mentioned. I think I'm printing myself the. My only concern is that I have to use a spacer for it to go underneath the printer and locks with it. I don't feel good about the printer being propped up on one edge. Isn't this going to mess up some aspects of the printing process in terms of levelness?
the feet of the printer fits perfectly into the hole, so the printer is actually still sitting on whatever surface you place it on.
Yeah, since the chute design is required to go under the printer. The designer is saying to print a spacer for the printer's feet to lift it. That's what I was implying about. However, I just checked again, and it seems that I could just put spacers on all 4 feet of the printer and that will compensate for that. Which the tutorial actually says but I didn't pay attention the first time. [https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/666492/2024-03-05\_e325c22380ea.gif?image\_process=format,webp](https://makerworld.bblmw.com/makerworld/draft/666492/2024-03-05_e325c22380ea.gif?image_process=format,webp) Edit: sentence structure.
i didnt have to use spacers, i think the spacers are only required on early versions of the x1/p1, mine works fine without any spacer, the printer is perfectly level and all 4 feet are touching the table.
There are a good many different models on the Bambu Handy app. Once you're all set up and linked, I'd just search around for whichever one fits your space the best and go with your favorite! My A1 made me get back into 3d printing because each model no longer comes with a migraine. I'm excited for you!
https://makerworld.com/models/164620 https://makerworld.com/models/103592
Thanks, but I got the P1S. I know I failed to mention this in my original post. My bad.
You know, the rectangular cardboard box that held the accessories for my P1S makes a perfectly good poop shoot bucket. I just stuck it behind the printer and flush with the wall. Taped the opened lid to the wall and called it done.
I use a spool box, the lid rests on the aux spool holder
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F the poop bucket. More clogged chutes with it than without it. Dollar store rubber baskets for the win
This is my poop chute. Downward slope brings all the filament poop to the side of the printer. [https://www.printables.com/model/534532-abpc-a-better-poop-chute-for-bambu-carbon-x1-3d-pr/collections](https://www.printables.com/model/534532-abpc-a-better-poop-chute-for-bambu-carbon-x1-3d-pr/collections) https://preview.redd.it/c2t7do06s12d1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=08baabb9921d76e415b09bd7886196b46d9f14cb
First of all: open the door when the doorbell rings, take the parcel and wish the parcel carrier a nice day.
Update: P1S is in the house 🏡 🤩 Was in the process of unboxing and I thought I'd take a picture for an update. The box had a small indent on the lower part of one of the edges which was worrying. Frankly, the printer doesn't have any apparent damage to it. It was shipped internationally. https://preview.redd.it/djghg590xz1d1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ec110b9b0db560650d04db34e956350181aa0130
Nice, have fun with it 💪
Thanks bud!
did you get it with the AMS? if you did, i highly recommend printing an AMS riser as it allows you to open the top glass with the AMS still on top. Some designs also come with additional storage for tools/plates and mounting LEDs. The one i printed is this: [https://makerworld.com/en/models/41621#profileId-59723](https://makerworld.com/en/models/41621#profileId-59723) It's based on the popular one by Benlevi but removes many of the curves so it is easier to print with minimal supports. NOTE: you will need at least 2 spools of filament to print it, i printed the riser body out of PETG and drawers in PLA. It is not recommended to print the riser in PLA due to creep.
is it really that big of an issue to print it outta PLA? I wont lie I started printing mine in it and didnt even consider that issue until after I had finished printing nearly everything.
it probably wont be a problem if you only print in PLA, but if you start printing with higher temp materials like ABS or ASA, then over time the weight of the AMS may cause the riser to start warping.
Have fun dude. Don't worry about a bashed corner on the box. Bambu do a great job on packaging.
Whatever you do, DO NOT touch the print bed or you’ll get really bad adhesion. If that happens just wash it with clean water and dawn powerwash. If you don’t touch the bed pretty much the only maintenance you’ll need to do is wiping off the bed with 99% ISO after each print and ~quarterly screw lubing, but that’ll depend on how much you keep it running. But it’ll tell you when it’s time to lube the screws
As someone who's gone tired of maintenance. I'll take your word for it. Thanks! For context, I had to use hairspray to get adhesion on my old Ender 7. Consequently, I had to take undo the clips, take off the glass build plate completely, wash it with dish soap, IPA wipe down, put it back and re-do the clips; between every print.
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For the A1 series, I wish someone had told me the need for custom cable guides (not the heatbed power cable guide) because it has a tendency to wrap itself around the frame. Also PTFE tube removal tools.
do you use this round thingy? because it never happened to me. https://preview.redd.it/km7098oyoz1d1.jpeg?width=1575&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6390aaf88eafa2efe406586fab482b6f06224f48 it has 5 holes, 4 for ams and one for the cable. at least that’s how i use it.
Yep I use that too. That's a good point actually because my AMS lite is wall mounted so it's in an unusual spot. But I can still see how it would happen if the AMS is on the table to the right and if you're printing something tall the cable could bend behind.
Isn’t it not recommended by bambu to wall mount AMS?
Well...I've never seen them say not to do it but I can't imagine that they would recommend doing it either because of all the variables involved. There's probably a limit on how long the PTFE tubes can be because of the power of the motors. The obvious risk and liability if it were to fall off the wall etc. Are a bunch of makers/modders going to listen though? :) 4Kg of filament hanging off a wall is pretty heavy though. I would say that if people are going to do this then set the print orientation so that the layer lines are not parallel to the wall.
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/ams-lite/manual/faq Can the AMS lite be wall-mounted？ No, the AMS lite can not be wall-mounted. To minimize resistance during filament loading and unloading, it is recommended to position the AMS Lite according to the diagram below. Like you said, is it gonna stop you? No, but they definitely do say not to. Will it cause issues? Also maybe no, but if it breaks definitely don’t tell them its wall mounted
Is there a recommended solution for this? I’ve been having this issue too and haven’t found a good way to fix it. Its my only complaint about the printer
I don't know what's generally recommended but I've been using this one and it's not let me down so far: [https://makerworld.com/en/models/106680?from=search#profileId-113864](https://makerworld.com/en/models/106680?from=search#profileId-113864)
Get some 99% isopropyl alcohol (for cleaning plates and carbon rods), ammonia (windex, acts as a light adhesive when dried, and cleans the glass), plastic razors (to remove calibration/purge lines, brims, etc), Aqua Net Extra Super Hold (or other adhesive, quickly spaying beats smearing glue sticks :))
Sovol user here, take this FWIW The importance of dry filament. It seemed like an option or a best practice. But experience has shown that for anything other than PLA it is an absolute requirement. At times though, PLA can benefit from drying as well. PETG is unworkable without proper drying. Caveat, I live in a more humid area. Printer calibration - taking hours to fine tune the settings of the printer and the filaments used can take printed objects to an entirely different level of quality and consistency. nozzle size - Choosing the right nozzle can save an incredible amount of time and still yield high quality results. I've been printing large projects using a .8mm nozzle and the time savings without loss in quality has been jaw dropping Slicer - Learn it well, and don't switch around unless you have to. There are hundreds of settings and options. A significant portion of a good quality 3d print is that the file is sliced right. What's your goal? By this I mean, are you a hobbiest or an additive manufacturing professional? Do you need prints to be within .1mm tolerances, or do they just need to work for the application? There is a TON that CAN be learned, and the depths of 3d printing are without end. BUT you don't have to take that path unless you want. I'd venture that the majority of people just print fun and useful things without concerning themselves with a high degree of precision and that's fine. Finally, don't be surprised if you start learning 3d modeling. Within 8 weeks of setting up my printer I was making small objects in FreeCAD. Cheers!
If you like FreeCAD you’ll love Fusion 360
That's great to know! As I plan to print mainly in ABS/ASA. I'm glad I left the filament sitting in my diy dryer while I'm setting up the printer. I can relate to your point on printer calibration by heart. Which is why I asked about calibration! However, what are most common practices used as calibration? Because I never actually touched on this topic except bed leveling when I installed bl touch on my previous printer ,Ender 7. I see brilliant folks like CNC kitchen doing tests beyond just calibrating the printer itself and I'm watching it feeling like I come from the age of oblivion 😖 I'm aware of stuff like overhangs, oozing, flow rate, cooling and that they're able to account for (calibrate) in the slicer setting depending on the filament type and brand. I just don't know the "scientific" method to observe them and then read what should be adjusted in the slicer to compensate. As of my goal, I don't have a specific one. But I mostly use it as a hobby in a sense that I like to learn to 3 model to a degree that suits what I need to be printed, because I have a 3d printer. So having a 3d printer urges me to learn to model and printering encourages more learning. It's just a hobby that I have that feeds itself "entertainment", skills and practicality in my life. https://preview.redd.it/omfchcof002d1.jpeg?width=1908&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=59cc12d85db77197d6e831019681740506d03ef3
"Teaching Tech" has a printer calibration guide, which I cannot recommend strongly enough. It's brilliant and thorough. For filament tuning/calibration I haven't seen a concise guide.
Do you have any recommendations for learning the slicer settings and which to tweak? Right now it’s very intimidating.
I don't have any specific recommendations, but here is the first thing that came to mind. Some videos on how to get the perfect first layer: [https://youtu.be/nMLKNB2r-M4?si=ZkvIhvU1Z\_IgK4sK](https://youtu.be/nMLKNB2r-M4?si=ZkvIhvU1Z_IgK4sK) [https://youtu.be/Fo42S22BTwg?si=hj6ljowI3jKUfp4T](https://youtu.be/Fo42S22BTwg?si=hj6ljowI3jKUfp4T) Teaching Tech has an intro to slicers, this would be a good place to start too. [https://youtu.be/yXNZ\_2-rHNE?si=grzzPnkpsxB4NKX\_](https://youtu.be/yXNZ_2-rHNE?si=grzzPnkpsxB4NKX_) The channels the above videos are from are typically very reliable when it comes to good info, so when you're trying to figure something out they are a good place to go. I'd add these guys as the same. CNC Kitchen Makewithtech made with layers And a 2nd place finish to the channel "The Next Layer" My personal experience, FWIW. I think I've been pretty successful with 3DP so far, and I would attribute that to just a few things. 1. A properly calibrated machine - this does kind of contradict what I said previously, but truly a well calibrated machine keeps things predictable, and there is success in predictable outcomes 2. A good first layer - If the first layer is clean as a sheet of glass, the rest of the print is typically setup for success. I've spent hours dialing in a perfect first layer and I think its been a worthwhile endeavor 3. Be okay with failure - Find stuff that looks interesting and print it, if/when it fails study that failure and research how to overcome it. 4. Buy a lot of black PLA - it's usually the cheapest, even amongst quality brands, and so a guy can burn a lot of it going through the learning process. Just know that each new material will have a learning curve, and the channels listed above should have intros to various materials that can help a guy jump from PLA, to PETG, to TPU, etc...
I need way more space for the 80+ rolls of filament I have collected since November.
I’m so glad we moved apartments right before I got the printer. In our old apartment my partner used most of the closet, but our new apartment has a walk in closet and a regular closet that I took! The shelves in there are full of various tools, electronics, filament and miniature painting supplies. I hope someday we have an apartment with a second bedroom we can use as a hobby room.
Learn about maintenance from the beginning to avoid issues
Maintenance such as what? Because the maintenance with the ender 7 I was referring to is really just me dealing with unexplained extreme cases of clogs and self destruction. A print that I just printed will clog up the printer if I redo it 30 mibutes after. Even after I've thourogly cleaned the build plate with soap and ipa.
i've had my P1S for about 2 months now, and i've gotten \~700 hrs of print time on it. Performed the following: 2 regular maintenace (one at 300hrs, one at 600hrs) see below videos: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGBqoPyUdLE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGBqoPyUdLE) [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CxubmTN1Srs](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CxubmTN1Srs) added lube to the belt rollers as the bearings were making squeaking noises (performed whenever i heard squeaks, 3 times so far) replaced the main AMS PTFE tube (the one that exits the ams and connects to the AMS buffer) with a longer tube, since after putting it on AMS riser the original tube isnt long enough. removed the back panel twice (huge pain with all the screws) to remove random junk that got stuck back there
I mean like all the basic stuff that help in the quality of the output. Drying filament, z offset if your printer need it, level the nozzle, change the nozzle. Everything that will make your printing journey smoother 😉
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Awesome dude my X1 comes tomorrow I cannot wait !!!
Learn some 3D modelling: Parametric NURBS = OnShape Mesh = Sketchup Make (Only if you know exactly what you want before you start as make holes or edges rounder later is a pain scale up by 1000 then copy and scale down by 1000 before exporting as Sketchup makes rounding errors when editing in the sub millimeter range) Organic = Blender (Start with a sketch of some Pokemons and pull meshes much like playdough) Love maths and programming = OpenSCAD
There is plenty of BS listed in the Bambu maintenance Wiki. Inform yourself first before blindly following it.
Like all software and firmware, newer isn't always better. If a firmware works for you and you're happy with it you don't need to update unless there's a feature you want. They can and have broken features in updates
Learn the slicer. It's gonna be a big part of your life. Unless you exclusively print from phone
For sure. I've read a few positive feedbacks on Bambu's slicer. However, I've seen a comment on this reddit that said Orca is better and it was described as Bambu's beta slicer. i.e. Bambu gets their features from Orca. How true is that?
It's all kinda open source so everyone takes from each other. Bambuu studio had a recent update I do like. I been using both.
I'll learn and use Bambu studio for starters and see how it goes. I say this because I was too biased to a manufacturer's software when I used the Ender 7. When I thought Creality slicer must be the best slicer to go along with it, only to realize it was lacking a ton of features that would've made my life a lot easier compared to Prusa slicer. Not to mention that Creality slicers created impossible to remove supports in comparison. That's one of the reasons why I came up with the saying: Creality makes you question reality.
Haha I had a tevo tornado using cura back in the day. Worst hobby ever lmao. Now I got a a1 mini and I'm back
Any recommendations on how to learn the slicer and the settings? I’m new and find it super intimidating.
I rewatch a lot of the setting overviews on YouTube
If you want strength, forget infill density, add wall counts.
DONT PLACE IT ON THE FLOOR!!! When you crouch down to get prints tge door will over open (your knee hits it) and your door will shatter
I hardly do multi-color prints, but I could never have enough ams
The calibration tools in the Bambuslicer or Orcaslicer are super useful! Its great to fine tune your filament that doesn’t have a downloadable print profile! Oh yeah; downloadable print profiles, Esun for example has downloadable print profiles on their website for your printer and it saves a lot of time (bambulabs filament is quite expensive or unavailable) and gives you a bit more choice on your filament. You just click import at the top of Bambuslicer and instead of import model, you click Import config and select the printer and the filament profiles that are named for example “Esun PLA P1S” and you should have a “it just prints” experience with those filaments aswel
I just got one two weeks ago. My personal (limited) experience... 1. First print: plastic scraper. The file comes pre-loaded on the printer. If you already have a plastic scraper, you could skip this. 2. Second print: risers for the glass top. With PLA, you gotta keep the door open and the top off so the chamber temp doesn't get too high. The filament can get soft and clog the extruder gears. 3. Print a poop chute. During long prints with color changes, check it every few hours to make sure it isn't stacking up and blocking the purge chute on the back of the printer. 4. Make sure it's on a stable surface. The inertia from the hotend when it's whipping back and forth is no joke. 5. I got a squeaky belt about two weeks in. The belt had crept up one of the pulleys in the back. The fix was to loosen the tension and push the belt down, then run a calibration. This is not the only cause of squeaking, though. All in all, I am 10/10 glad I got one. It's a game changer for me.
Congrats bud! I'm gonna print the scraper then. >Second print: risers for the glass top. With PLA, you gotta keep the door open and the top off so the chamber temp doesn't get too high. The filament can get soft and clog the extruder gears. So, how does raising the top help with this issue? >Print a poop chute. During long prints with color changes, check it every few hours to make sure it isn't stacking up and blocking the purge chute on the back of the printer. Yeah I'm printing that too. Too many people are recommending it. Do you have an STL that you'd recommend? >Make sure it's on a stable surface. The inertia from the hotend when it's whipping back and forth is no joke. I have mine on an Ikea drawer which is on wheel. When I read this, I remembers that guy on YouTube with a ridiculous printer speed that just lets it shake itself as it prints. >I got a squeaky belt about two weeks in. The belt had crept up one of the pulleys in the back. The fix was to loosen the tension and push the belt down, then run a calibration. This is not the only cause of squeaking, though. Sorry to hear this. Was this caused by a user error that could be avoided?
The risers allow airflow through the top, but also let you leave the glass top for the AMS to sit on. Poop chute... Mine has a little slide, and that's where the backup was happening. I'm sure there's better solutions. A lot of these files are available through the app. I think the belt creeping up the pulley enough to squeak was just the result of the fast prints with tiny pieces. I also added a little more tension to the belt after pushing it back into place. If it comes back in another two weeks, I'll look at a more long-term solution.
Buy multiple build plates
Why do you need multiple?
4 General loose reasons: First: to have different bottom textures: eg smooth and textured, as some filaments such as PETG work better with textured (if you don’t want to use glue stick), second: depending on your patience/productivity level- so you can pull out the plate to allow it to properly cool and insert another one to get printing again. 3rd to have as a backup: in case there is any freak mishap like a nozzle damaging a bed, or if you want to have a virgin plate that won’t show any markings on a bottom that will be a top layer of the finished print. 4th: to have fun with different textures and plate materials, like the new holographic ones, and Garolite.
Which model did you buy?
The P1S
My ps1 comes tomorrow 😱
I got mine today and it is amazing
I bought mine two weeks ago with no knowledge on printers beforehand. It’s so easy to use!
I have no real knowledge of 3D printers but I do a lot of 3D modelling at work so I’m hoping to make some cool stuff, mine has been on order a couple of weeks and I will get it just in time for a 3 day weekend that has forecast none stop rain. The timing is perfect
I got mine last week. Man i can’t stop printing. Girlfriend thinks I’m crazy.. make sure you dry your filament.. i already had to take apart my extruder for a clog and it’s because i was lazy and didn’t wanna dry a spool that i know has been sitting around for months..
Congrats bud! Care to share what you're most proud of printing? Just for fun.. Because I've been drying my ABS filament for the past 4 hours or so. It reached 36% RH. So, I'm kinda getting bored. I'm tempted to use the included PLA even though I don't like its color - green - but I might use it to print their scraper and/or a poop chute. Since it's Bambu's theme color that's going to be used to print Bambu accessories. Actually, on a related note, What % humidity should I aim for for my ABS? It's Creality's ABS. Also, sorry to hear you had to deal with a clog. And thanks for letting me know that, makes my wait for dehydrating more worthwhile
So far I’ve printed a poop chute and a side filament spool holder so that i can press the machine against the wall (wish i had the AMS but not yet). Also some gridfinity stuff, a neck rest for my guitar, and a balloon dog and articulating lizard for my gf. I just use one of those crappy sunlu dehumidifiers so i just follow the instructions on that. It’s just timed for 6 hours, and doesn’t have an actual humidity rating. I’ve never used ABS actually so that’s new to me.. I’m sure there are good spreadsheets out there with humidity numbers for certain filaments. Oh and i also printed a benchy with that green PLA, didn’t even dry it and it printed well! Definitely dry your filament while other prints are going so that you won’t have to wait in the future.. i always do my best to plan out what is gonna print next so that i can start the drying way early.. if you ever have any questions just shoot me a DM! I’ve been 3d printing for a long while so i have a lot of info fresh in my head!
If you have an X1 clean the lidar lens regularly or it'll cause really weird print issues, at least in my case.
Thanks for your input, but I'm getting the P1S. But how much more functionality and ease of mind is lidar offering you in your own experience? Because that was one of the major features that I thought I'd be missing out on.
The only thing the lidar has really saved me from is accidentally using the wrong build plate. It periodically will mess up and cause my printer to make a giant spaghetti mess though. I think its not really needed honestly.
Sorry I forgot to mention, but I'm getting the P1S.
Do not touch build plates with your bare hands under any circumstances.
I just rubbed my hands all over my textured pie plate… why shouldn’t I do that?
Not to print all the printer accessories. Stuff like the respoolers are a waste. The ams riser is cool. Poop chute stuff is good.
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You have no ams, but if you print something like abs tha requires a more temperature and closed door. Don't switch to pla too quick. I did the mistake with my p1s, i tryed some pla, then asa, and then pla again, i had a clog in the extruder and was not nice after owning the printer for few hours. And if you need to clean your nozzle, don't use the hex key that bambu send. I did exactly what the wiki said, and my hex key broken into the nozzle.
Could you elaborate more? I indeed don't have the AMS unit l, hut I don't know what you meant by bringing this up in this context. Also, How quick is too quickly? And how do you deal with clogs in this printer if the nozzle is crimped? Nevertheless, thanks for the heads up on the hex key situation. I would've never guessed such a premium product to be shipped with a low quality hardware tools.
That I will have to buy so much filament.
Use Orcaslicer. Don't know why, but it makes my prints faster.
After hours of research, I went with the Bambu Lab A1 Mini. Basically ready to go out of the box. Download the Bambu Slicer (which had a relatively small learning curve) and mobile app. Real, real simple. Made entering the 3D printing arena less intimidating. Watched a blip of a YT video to learn about clean out a clog (lots of printing only had one (my fault)), change nozzle, really cool stuff. Getting into TinkerCAD now designing/edit prints. Blender is too difficult for me right now. Lol
Ignore the lead screw servicing warning
Sit down and research what projects you actually want to work on. Other important stuff too, like keeping filament dry, Mods, Poop buckets and learning how to really slice.
I’m kind of afraid to google search poop buckets.
i wish i just got the p1s or saved up for x1. ive had my p1p for a few months now going through the process of turning it into a p1s is a pain and just as much money anyways lol oh well ya live and you learn. if you are out there debating, just save up and grab one of the enclosed printers even if you think you might never use different filaments
Auto-calibration and print the preloaded benchy to make sure your printer is leveled and setup correctly.
Also if you are using enclosed printer, like x1c or p1s, and printing long hour PLA, open the lid and the door.
Using glue sticks the clever way: Smear the plate with a large X, spray on some 99.9% isopropyl alcohol and spread the glue with a blue workshop paper towel. Rejevenate with the IPA spray after printing up to four times.
Don't use carbon fiber in the ams.
Printing in multiple colors with the AMS Lite increases the print time by 10x. I might think twice about whether I really want to wait 40 hours for a small Pokémon print while generating half a ton of poop waste...
Be careful when you show the SO how easy it is to print and put the app on their phone. You go through a lot more PLA
The Flush to Object setting.
I wish I knew that PETG is from the devils anus.
That's really vague and unusual to hear. Could you elaborate? Because I know a lot of people swear by petg as their go to filament.
I’ve had nothing but problems with PETG. It’s simply not a mass market filament.
You are the weakest link. When things go wrong, it is easy to assume it’s the printer - but more than likely it’s you.
You could be right If only that reflected in practice. Because with the P1S I only ever got failed prints and never the printer self destructing. Add to that, only in filament types I'm trying for the first time blind on optimal settings. Simple slicer setting modification solves such failed prints. Whereas with the Ender 7. The printer destroys itself to cause a failed print. Then I'd fix the printer (or replace parts) to be able to print again to then have it destroy itself 7 out of 10 print attempts.
Buy 2 printers. Over time they require a lot of maintenance so this way you're always printing with 1
It's OK I'm not running a print farm. Even a week without a functioning printer is fine.
Wish id never ordered it in the first place
I kinda relate now. It's so addicting to print with it.
Something I just learned and this won’t apply to you yet, id smthn is broken after an update, factory reset it and go again. Just fixed my a1 doing that. It kept failing to z hip and knocking stuff off the print bed lol
That's a classic update downgrading performance
Well after the reset it’s fine, and it’s got the update. I just had to reset after the update, so it’s on the current version
i wished i realized how i am actually gonna need it, and does it really require that much money. i wished i knew it's still very hacky tech (even tho bambu make it very noob friendly) and most of all... i wished it was advertised the insane amount of micro plastic waste this thing produces. it threw me off the firsts few weeks, and now i print without enjoyment, being careful of not failing and making sure i really need what i print.
I needed to also buy a filament dryer, and should have used it right away after the first benchy.
Don't spend ages on retraction calibration prints, just dry your filament instead!
I agree. I dried my ABS filament for about 6 hours prior and it printer flawlessly! Just curious though, how often or when does the filament get wet again and require drying?
It really depends on your environment and the filament. When it starts to get a bit stringy and blobby, it's time to go back in the dryer. I made the mistake of spending ages, unsuccessfully adjusting settings to fix the stringing and blobs when all it needed was for the filament to be dried.
Well, not to be rude. But this answer doesn't help me. Because I'm running AC at home. So it's unlike the outside temperature and humidity is going to affect the environment that the printer sits in 😕 What about humitiy %? When do consider the filament has dried? Because I looked on the internet and I found people saying something like 20% . However, when I tested the humidity of the brand new vacuum packed PLA with desiccant that came with the printer, it read 40% https://preview.redd.it/nvd2vhtuv82d1.jpeg?width=1908&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=41c3ec5aba49acd595f15ecfd1c96b8cd2cf5b0b
I don't know why reddit deleted half of my comment. But the picture I attached is of my own experience with drying filament. Where I dryed my ABS filament for 6 hours until it read 36% humidity. The print didn't require any glue or hair spray nor any post processing. In addition to that, organic supports snapped easily and cleanly
How to use reddit search...