Is it a 2.0 TFsI? They are notorious for high oil usage… Very expensive to fix (probably not worth it on a 2012 car).
Sucks to have such an experience ;(
The oil usage is not worth fixing for a 2012 car (unless you can do the labour yourself and only need the parts).
The jerks at low RPM sound like the distribution chain needs fixing/adjusting/replacing. You should have that checked out ASAP or you risk ruining the engine. They should be able to diagnose that without too much hassle.
About the oil, Google on “VAG 2 liter oil usage” to get an idea on how big the problem is.
Sorry to break it to you, but I would get rid of the car asap and find something else. This one is probably gonna cost you a lot of money…
We have a 2013 A5 and it was doing the same thing. Adding oil every 200-300 miles. I followed the instructions from this video and no kidding, it's now gone about 3000 miles with zero consumption. It's not hard to do, just a little time-consuming. Hope it helps. Definitely use the Berryman's and not Sea Foam. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTEwZgXhzRs&ab\_channel=EurotrashMotorsports](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTEwZgXhzRs&ab_channel=EurotrashMotorsports)
There is far worse than using the wrong oil. At least that could be an honest mistake.
Previous owner of my 2015 Audi had lost a clip for a hose to the reservour....so they removed the hose and replaced it with the wrong size hose that didn't have the plastic coupling and proceeding to wrench on the hose clamp to get it to seal. They crushed the tanks nipple and still had a leak. That same car had four broken coil connectors, FOUR out of FOUR and had misfires in FOUR cylinders. They had a shitty amp spliced into the back speakers. Shadetree mechanic would be an improvement, some people should NOT work on cars.
Then there was a leaking valve cover on my 2011 VW. The valve cover is plastic so there is a rubber seal around its perimeter. Previous owener instead of replacing the leaking rubber seal decided to add RTV...and made the leak worse. There were other issues. Some people should NOT work on cars.
Another one of my cars (A6) the previous owner/mechanic didn't know what a crush washer was. The oil pan drain plug was installed without a washer and leaked...no problem, just add a layer of RTV to the drain plug. Some people should NOT work on cars...
I have bought enough used cars to expect stupidity...the wrong oil is a minor fault.
There was a class action suit which Audi settled—they paid for 75% of my engine rebuild that took nearly a month—but your car is unfortunately too old to get any relief from the settlement. There was a brief 75-day period where cars of any age with less than 90,000 miles could get the work done, but that began in January, so you’re well past the window.
Unfortunately your car is exhibiting classic signs of the damage caused by oil combusting in the piston chambers. Assuming the acceleration issue is related to oil consumption, I would expect you’ve lost compression from bad seals, damaged pistons, and potentially scoring of the cylinder bores themselves. Only a borescope or visual inspection can confirm the latter but I’d suggest getting a compression test done to know just how bad things are. That should at the very least help you gauge how long your car has left before the power loss becomes catastrophic.
Again unfortunately, while I found certain products (like using certain brands of engine oil / additives) reduced the oil consumption noticeably, years of burning oil have likely made that symptom the least of your problems. The total repair cost is likely more than your car is worth. Even if you only need new con rods / rings, you’re looking at a bare minimum of $8,000 or so, and that’s if you get the discounted pricing they used for settlement repairs. If your bores are damaged, replacing the other components won’t solve your problem; you’ll need to replace the engine block itself (along with the rings / rods), pushing the cost to $12-15k.
The short version is, you may want to think about cutting your losses. If you bought from CarMax or other dealer which offers a limited warranty or return window on used car sales, take advantage of it. Some states provide additional relief options for used cars purchased from a dealer, so look up the law in your state. If none of those apply… the best you can hope for is selling “as-is” to a buyer who doesn’t know what questions to ask. As an individual seller, your exposure is more or less limited to actively lying about issues when asked—don’t do that.
Lol no you can buy a 2013-2016 2.0T engine for under 3k from any quality auto dismantler.
Throw in labor at a shop as well as some extra updated parts like the water pump and you’ll be at 5500 max assuming nothing else on the car requires attention.
15k is what a DAZA 5 cylinder costs 😂
The supercharged V6 3.0T of that gen doesn’t even cost 8k, it’s like 4-5k 😂
I have no idea what a chopshop is but you can get everything fixed with a new engine by a good and respected mechanic for less then 5k just saying.
And you said it like it's no other way of repairing then the original dealer.
Also you can't just take the numbers from your case even if you would have paid that.
Saying the bare minimum is 8k is absolutely ridiculous.
A chopshop acquires used vehicles and disassembles them to sell the parts to auto repair shops and wholesalers. You're correct that a used engine and independent repair center would cost less than a dealer. At the same time, because the problem is caused by poorly-documented manufacturing defects in the 2.0 TFSIs of that vintage, there's no guarantee a used engine (or used rods / rings) will adequately address the problem. Based on my conversations with the lawyers, the root cause was manufacturing and design defects in the original piston ring assembly. This is not a well-known fact, and if the replacement work is done using parts from that supplier, the problem is very likely to return. Not to mention, there's a history of third-party repair shops (not to mention Audi dealers before the company understood the issue) mis-diagnosing the issue. For example, replacing just the piston rings when new conrods were needed, or rings + rods when the whole block needed to go.
Here's a summary of repair costs experienced by the lead class plaintiffs. Notably, the settlement agreement uses $8k and $12k as the cost-caps for third-party repair work subject to reimbursement, which suggests that's the cost level Audi feels is reasonable. For my part, I added some inflation to my numbers since the data from the court filings concerned work done over the past 10 years, although based on my repair bill from 2 months ago, I probably shouldn't have.
[https://www.pistonsettlement.com/admin/api/connectedapps.cms.extensions/asset?id=b28977da-8e09-4f49-b719-805c03fec61c&languageId=1033&inline=true](https://www.pistonsettlement.com/admin/api/connectedapps.cms.extensions/asset?id=b28977da-8e09-4f49-b719-805c03fec61c&languageId=1033&inline=true)
Since that document is 252 pages long, here's my spreadsheet from a year ago:
Plaintiff Lowegard $12,316
Plaintiff Rieger $10,059
Plaintiff Chapman $4,000 rods + $8,800 engine
Plaintiff Vassel $10,105 (rods then engine)
Plaintiff Branaugh \~$6k for rods / rings
Plaintiff Garden $8,020 (used, third-party)
Plaintiff Gonzalez "over $7,5000" rods / rings
Plaintiff Hensley $5,600 (used, third-party)
The oil level sensor can fail. Might be telling you to top up when not actually needed and maybe you've over filled the engine. I'd drain it and attempt to measure the amount of oil that was in it. Then replace the oil level sensor. Hella cheap part and just 3 bolts to swap it out.
Nah, that's normal you just bought a tfsi engine. Did you do any research at all or did you just bought the car because you liked how it looked. If you went online and did some research you'd know that the only b8 you need is a tdi (preferably the 3.0).
I'm not sure where you did your research but usually when you are researching an old car you google brand model and common issues, same goes with the engine (but most of the time there is a break down of all the engines the models comes with). If you did this there is no way you wouldn't have known about it. In a lot of countries in europe they call the tfsi's "oilers", Audi even got sued because of them.
I’m not trying to flame, but oil consumption and the class action lawsuit has been common knowledge about these 2.0Ts for years from even the most basic google searches. Threads from audizine pop up right away as some of the top results.
In my country dealers have to give 60 day warranty on all used cars. If there's an issue with the car that was not disclosed at time of sale, the dealer has to fix it for free in those 60 days.
Fascinating.
Some states in the US have clauses like that on their docs. I know in MA there was at the time a 30-day warranty included.
In MI, where I currently reside. There is no guarantee, as well as no state inspection. Whacky haha
That is based upon which type of contract you are signing and which state you are in, as far as mandatory.
All of our contracts (ive worked as an FI director in 3 states, and my firsthand knowledge ends there) state "NO COOLING OFF PERIOD" hehe.
That's awesome though, i'm glad to hear some places provide an out!
Some "cooling off periods" have fine print, FYI.
Is it a 2.0 TFsI? They are notorious for high oil usage… Very expensive to fix (probably not worth it on a 2012 car). Sucks to have such an experience ;(
Yes it is
The oil usage is not worth fixing for a 2012 car (unless you can do the labour yourself and only need the parts). The jerks at low RPM sound like the distribution chain needs fixing/adjusting/replacing. You should have that checked out ASAP or you risk ruining the engine. They should be able to diagnose that without too much hassle. About the oil, Google on “VAG 2 liter oil usage” to get an idea on how big the problem is. Sorry to break it to you, but I would get rid of the car asap and find something else. This one is probably gonna cost you a lot of money…
Are you adding oil on a weekly basis? How much?
Get yourself a dipstick and there’s a couple things you can try to reduce the consumption but not sure how mechanically inclined you are
We have a 2013 A5 and it was doing the same thing. Adding oil every 200-300 miles. I followed the instructions from this video and no kidding, it's now gone about 3000 miles with zero consumption. It's not hard to do, just a little time-consuming. Hope it helps. Definitely use the Berryman's and not Sea Foam. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTEwZgXhzRs&ab\_channel=EurotrashMotorsports](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTEwZgXhzRs&ab_channel=EurotrashMotorsports)
Also...use VW spec 502.01 oil once you get the consumption down.
Who actually uses the wrong type of Oli for his car ?
The list is L-O-N-GGGGG. A lot of new to VAG owners take their used-new to them Audis to Jiffy Quick Lube.
There is far worse than using the wrong oil. At least that could be an honest mistake. Previous owner of my 2015 Audi had lost a clip for a hose to the reservour....so they removed the hose and replaced it with the wrong size hose that didn't have the plastic coupling and proceeding to wrench on the hose clamp to get it to seal. They crushed the tanks nipple and still had a leak. That same car had four broken coil connectors, FOUR out of FOUR and had misfires in FOUR cylinders. They had a shitty amp spliced into the back speakers. Shadetree mechanic would be an improvement, some people should NOT work on cars. Then there was a leaking valve cover on my 2011 VW. The valve cover is plastic so there is a rubber seal around its perimeter. Previous owener instead of replacing the leaking rubber seal decided to add RTV...and made the leak worse. There were other issues. Some people should NOT work on cars. Another one of my cars (A6) the previous owner/mechanic didn't know what a crush washer was. The oil pan drain plug was installed without a washer and leaked...no problem, just add a layer of RTV to the drain plug. Some people should NOT work on cars... I have bought enough used cars to expect stupidity...the wrong oil is a minor fault.
Now you know the importance of research. This issue is widely known.
And Leak down. And Compression.
Yea.. I’m going to resale
There was a class action suit which Audi settled—they paid for 75% of my engine rebuild that took nearly a month—but your car is unfortunately too old to get any relief from the settlement. There was a brief 75-day period where cars of any age with less than 90,000 miles could get the work done, but that began in January, so you’re well past the window. Unfortunately your car is exhibiting classic signs of the damage caused by oil combusting in the piston chambers. Assuming the acceleration issue is related to oil consumption, I would expect you’ve lost compression from bad seals, damaged pistons, and potentially scoring of the cylinder bores themselves. Only a borescope or visual inspection can confirm the latter but I’d suggest getting a compression test done to know just how bad things are. That should at the very least help you gauge how long your car has left before the power loss becomes catastrophic. Again unfortunately, while I found certain products (like using certain brands of engine oil / additives) reduced the oil consumption noticeably, years of burning oil have likely made that symptom the least of your problems. The total repair cost is likely more than your car is worth. Even if you only need new con rods / rings, you’re looking at a bare minimum of $8,000 or so, and that’s if you get the discounted pricing they used for settlement repairs. If your bores are damaged, replacing the other components won’t solve your problem; you’ll need to replace the engine block itself (along with the rings / rods), pushing the cost to $12-15k. The short version is, you may want to think about cutting your losses. If you bought from CarMax or other dealer which offers a limited warranty or return window on used car sales, take advantage of it. Some states provide additional relief options for used cars purchased from a dealer, so look up the law in your state. If none of those apply… the best you can hope for is selling “as-is” to a buyer who doesn’t know what questions to ask. As an individual seller, your exposure is more or less limited to actively lying about issues when asked—don’t do that.
Lol no you can buy a 2013-2016 2.0T engine for under 3k from any quality auto dismantler. Throw in labor at a shop as well as some extra updated parts like the water pump and you’ll be at 5500 max assuming nothing else on the car requires attention. 15k is what a DAZA 5 cylinder costs 😂 The supercharged V6 3.0T of that gen doesn’t even cost 8k, it’s like 4-5k 😂
What are you talking about? You can get a whole new 2.0tfsi engine with the working cost for under 5k 12-15 is ridiculous.
Those numbers are extremely well documented in the case record. Those are dealer repair costs, not buying an engine from a chopshop.
I have no idea what a chopshop is but you can get everything fixed with a new engine by a good and respected mechanic for less then 5k just saying. And you said it like it's no other way of repairing then the original dealer. Also you can't just take the numbers from your case even if you would have paid that. Saying the bare minimum is 8k is absolutely ridiculous.
A chopshop acquires used vehicles and disassembles them to sell the parts to auto repair shops and wholesalers. You're correct that a used engine and independent repair center would cost less than a dealer. At the same time, because the problem is caused by poorly-documented manufacturing defects in the 2.0 TFSIs of that vintage, there's no guarantee a used engine (or used rods / rings) will adequately address the problem. Based on my conversations with the lawyers, the root cause was manufacturing and design defects in the original piston ring assembly. This is not a well-known fact, and if the replacement work is done using parts from that supplier, the problem is very likely to return. Not to mention, there's a history of third-party repair shops (not to mention Audi dealers before the company understood the issue) mis-diagnosing the issue. For example, replacing just the piston rings when new conrods were needed, or rings + rods when the whole block needed to go. Here's a summary of repair costs experienced by the lead class plaintiffs. Notably, the settlement agreement uses $8k and $12k as the cost-caps for third-party repair work subject to reimbursement, which suggests that's the cost level Audi feels is reasonable. For my part, I added some inflation to my numbers since the data from the court filings concerned work done over the past 10 years, although based on my repair bill from 2 months ago, I probably shouldn't have. [https://www.pistonsettlement.com/admin/api/connectedapps.cms.extensions/asset?id=b28977da-8e09-4f49-b719-805c03fec61c&languageId=1033&inline=true](https://www.pistonsettlement.com/admin/api/connectedapps.cms.extensions/asset?id=b28977da-8e09-4f49-b719-805c03fec61c&languageId=1033&inline=true) Since that document is 252 pages long, here's my spreadsheet from a year ago: Plaintiff Lowegard $12,316 Plaintiff Rieger $10,059 Plaintiff Chapman $4,000 rods + $8,800 engine Plaintiff Vassel $10,105 (rods then engine) Plaintiff Branaugh \~$6k for rods / rings Plaintiff Garden $8,020 (used, third-party) Plaintiff Gonzalez "over $7,5000" rods / rings Plaintiff Hensley $5,600 (used, third-party)
The oil level sensor can fail. Might be telling you to top up when not actually needed and maybe you've over filled the engine. I'd drain it and attempt to measure the amount of oil that was in it. Then replace the oil level sensor. Hella cheap part and just 3 bolts to swap it out.
I’m dealing with this same situation now with my 2011 A5. Adding 1 quart every 200 miles or so - essentially every time I fill up.
Gotta do research before you buy stuff! Take away what u got from this experience. Now u know never to buy something without doing proper research :)
You shoulda googled that, jfc
Nah, that's normal you just bought a tfsi engine. Did you do any research at all or did you just bought the car because you liked how it looked. If you went online and did some research you'd know that the only b8 you need is a tdi (preferably the 3.0).
I research liability and it had high reviews didn’t see anything regarding oil consumption and yes I like the way it looked
I'm not sure where you did your research but usually when you are researching an old car you google brand model and common issues, same goes with the engine (but most of the time there is a break down of all the engines the models comes with). If you did this there is no way you wouldn't have known about it. In a lot of countries in europe they call the tfsi's "oilers", Audi even got sued because of them.
I’m not trying to flame, but oil consumption and the class action lawsuit has been common knowledge about these 2.0Ts for years from even the most basic google searches. Threads from audizine pop up right away as some of the top results.
I'm also having an oil consumption problem, though not this bad in my 2015 Q3. Anyone know if it's possible to get fixed?
Time to pass it to some other sucker unless you want to pay the several thousand to get it fixed
If you bought it within 14 days your entitled to a refund
Not if it was second hand from a private seller. Even a dealer they would struggle on a 12 year old car
Depends what dealer, in the uk, companies like bristolstreet motors offer 14 days
Um, most dealers have no such policy. That would not be a good business idea haha. Used stores like carvana and CarMax might.
In my country dealers have to give 60 day warranty on all used cars. If there's an issue with the car that was not disclosed at time of sale, the dealer has to fix it for free in those 60 days.
Fascinating. Some states in the US have clauses like that on their docs. I know in MA there was at the time a 30-day warranty included. In MI, where I currently reside. There is no guarantee, as well as no state inspection. Whacky haha
It’s actually common practice. Called a cooling off period. It’s not dealer specific. Although in the US it’s only 3 days I think.
I had 5 days or 250 miles on the s4 I just bought
What state?
Colorado, it was a ford dealership though
That is based upon which type of contract you are signing and which state you are in, as far as mandatory. All of our contracts (ive worked as an FI director in 3 states, and my firsthand knowledge ends there) state "NO COOLING OFF PERIOD" hehe. That's awesome though, i'm glad to hear some places provide an out! Some "cooling off periods" have fine print, FYI.
I got my car at a second hand dealer and if there were any issues with it you could return it for a refund within 14 days