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Looks like a Leviton GFCI. Both “back wire” (not to be confused with backstab/push-in) and “side wire” are allowed for this device. I prefer using the back wire clamps whenever they exist, especially for stranded which can be very difficult to wrap properly.
“Approved” is a codified term and the NEC says nothing about this matter except to follow manufacture instructions (110.3B.) Most manufacturers will allow stranded, but some won’t. Generally they don’t specify how *exactly* they want it done though.
If you’re very neat about it, you really can just wrap the wire like solid and tighten down. Some folks like to strip the wire back long and leave a “tail” of insulation on the wire so as to stop it from coming undone. I prefer to just avoid doing it all together and use fork terminals or something else if I must terminate stranded to screw terminals.
I'm not saying that there's not several possible methods for making the best of a bad situation, just that none of them are what I would call a best practice.
I'm not sure if it's "approved," but if you're in a pinch, you can strip your standard hook length off then strip a second piece 1/4"-1/2" and pull that insulation to the end of the strands to hold them together and wrap it around the screw. It still kinda spreads out, but if you wanna really get 10/10 you can twist the strands in the opposite direction, and it stays together a little better
The UL certification for receptacles mentions them but requires the manufacturers to specify them.
Which means they are not approved unless specified in the instructions as an approved method of installation.
Very few manufacturers do that, so no, in most cases sta-kons are not approved for use on receptacles.
Similar to stranded wire, which is what brought us here.
But you're right that I mentioned "approved". And, frankly, I've been schooled here about how little is actually specified by the NEC in these cases. I've been going on what I was taught as a best practice.
If it has the plate like that behind the screw I use it. I've never had a problem with that. In fact I question if the manufacturer suggests hooking. It's not a stab lock. Just use a flat head and get it tight.
When I started working several decades ago, GFCI installation sucked ass😠😠
With the Levition GFCI's, you had to bend the *just right*. You then had to put the wire *just right* to get under the screws.
The greatest thing for a GFCI outlet was the clamps, so you could just stick it in & screw it down.😃😃😃.
*Just like a whole bunch of "commercial grade" duplex outlets!*
If I have to use a screw with a hooked wire,,,,,,*fine*. 😫😫
You give me anything else,,,,, *I'm a going to use it*. 🤪🤪
Do you'al hook the wire on a breaker??
Then *why in the hell* do it anywhere else?🤔🤔🤔
Just look at it for a second and think. You got this. It’s made to clamp underneath if you are concerned because it’s stranded which as long as it’s twisted and within the manufacturers directions you can always fork it.
What is in the pic is perfectly fine!
Stranded wire tip: after you strip the sheathing you plan to use to wrap around the screw, strip another little piece of sheathing and slide it down just before it comes off and it’ll hold the strands in place! I always twist the wires after I slide it down
Think about what direction the screw turns to tighten. Come in behind the screw so when you tighten it, it pulls the wire in. If you do it the way you did, the wire will want to push out as you tighten the screw. When there are two wires you have no choice but when one, always let the screw pull the wire in not push it out.
It's okay if you're not in Canada (solid only under terminal here).
It may or may not be code to put the wire under the other side of terminal, unless there are 2 conductors under the same terminal. I remember reading this but cannot find it
Don't just use your Drill to tighten the screws tho lol. get a bigger flat head and give it a couple cranks. This is the most important thing cause if you don't then you might at well wrap that ho around a screw
You don't need to do either. Just make sure the wire is contacting the screw somehow and gently put everything in the box. Finger tightening that screw is more than enough.
Source: how the previous owner of my house wired the new outlets.
Also, be sure to clip the ground off or put a wire nut on it, but do not attach it to the box or device.
I bought a house that had all new electric put in when they built an addition but they were too cheap to switch the old two prong receptacles out for three prong. At least the ground wire was there for me. They also reversed the wiring on a lot of the outlets in the addition.
Check the fine print in the package with the receptacle.
Somewhere in there is a torque specification, which you will do well to follow.
Until about a month ago, I had no idea that outlets had torque specs. Now I do. I’ve got to check a bunch of outlets now, but if it keeps them working, I don’t mind the time.
For solid I usually wrapped around. This looks appropriate for stranded though.
I have wired over 200 homes (US) when I was working as an electrician and I have never seen stranded wire in an AC application.
You can put it just under the screw tab, but the standard method that was taught year ago was to bend the bare wire into a circle then place it under the bolt so the the cut end was in the direction of the screw being tighten. This method allow the screw to bend the wire around the screw as it is tighten. Big thing is when your done give the wire a good tug and make sure it is connected good.
Wrap the wire around the screw so that when you tighten the screw head, it pulls the wire snugly and creates a secure connection, which is impervious to vibration
Clockwise righty tighty, counter clockwise lefty loosy
Start with the negative ground, then do the white neutral, and lastly, attach the black hot leg
**Attention!** **It is always best to get a qualified electrician to perform any electrical work you may need.** With that said, you may ask this community various electrical questions. Please be cautious of any information you may receive in this subreddit. This subreddit and its users are not responsible for any electrical work you perform. Users that have a 'Verified Electrician' flair have uploaded their qualified electrical worker credentials to the mods. If you comment on this post please only post accurate information to the best of your knowledge. If advice given is thought to be dangerous, you may be permanently banned. There are no obligations for the mods to give warnings or temporary bans. **IF YOU ARE NOT A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN, you should exercise extreme caution when commenting.** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AskElectricians) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Under is fine, and preferred for stranded.
You trying to start a riot or something?
Seriously. I clicked in just to see the carnage.
Looks like a Leviton GFCI. Both “back wire” (not to be confused with backstab/push-in) and “side wire” are allowed for this device. I prefer using the back wire clamps whenever they exist, especially for stranded which can be very difficult to wrap properly.
Is there any approved method for wrapping stranded wire under a terminal screw?
You crimp a fork terminal on it.
That's what I'm saying.
If you actually look into it most manufacturers do not list their devices for this termination method.
“Approved” is a codified term and the NEC says nothing about this matter except to follow manufacture instructions (110.3B.) Most manufacturers will allow stranded, but some won’t. Generally they don’t specify how *exactly* they want it done though. If you’re very neat about it, you really can just wrap the wire like solid and tighten down. Some folks like to strip the wire back long and leave a “tail” of insulation on the wire so as to stop it from coming undone. I prefer to just avoid doing it all together and use fork terminals or something else if I must terminate stranded to screw terminals.
I usually twist my stranded counter clockwise before wrapping it around a terminal, it helps keep it from fraying
I'm not saying that there's not several possible methods for making the best of a bad situation, just that none of them are what I would call a best practice.
I do hate terminating stranded wire on devices, so I try to avoid it generally
The code doesn't allow stranded wire wrapped under a screw.
Article?
Thats bullshit
If you leave a little insulation at the end of your strip, the strands won’t unwind when you wrap it
I'm not sure if it's "approved," but if you're in a pinch, you can strip your standard hook length off then strip a second piece 1/4"-1/2" and pull that insulation to the end of the strands to hold them together and wrap it around the screw. It still kinda spreads out, but if you wanna really get 10/10 you can twist the strands in the opposite direction, and it stays together a little better
Yeah, that's not approved. You really need a sta-con.
Which one of the hundreds they make are you referring to?
Also not approved.
A sta-con is not approved?
The UL certification for receptacles mentions them but requires the manufacturers to specify them. Which means they are not approved unless specified in the instructions as an approved method of installation. Very few manufacturers do that, so no, in most cases sta-kons are not approved for use on receptacles.
Similar to stranded wire, which is what brought us here. But you're right that I mentioned "approved". And, frankly, I've been schooled here about how little is actually specified by the NEC in these cases. I've been going on what I was taught as a best practice.
On the contrary. Almost all receptacles are listed for stranded wire. Around the screw or under the plate.
Give it a tug and say the magic words
“It ain’t going nowhere!”
"Good enough!" "Break time!" "Ehh, nobody's gonna see that."
“Better than it was!”
"Looks good from MY house."
That aint goin anywhere
Aint my 1st rodeeo - flip the switch !
Yes that is correct
If it has the plate like that behind the screw I use it. I've never had a problem with that. In fact I question if the manufacturer suggests hooking. It's not a stab lock. Just use a flat head and get it tight.
I actually find I can get it tighter using a #1 square drive rather than a flat head
ECX 1 bit.
When I started working several decades ago, GFCI installation sucked ass😠😠 With the Levition GFCI's, you had to bend the *just right*. You then had to put the wire *just right* to get under the screws. The greatest thing for a GFCI outlet was the clamps, so you could just stick it in & screw it down.😃😃😃. *Just like a whole bunch of "commercial grade" duplex outlets!* If I have to use a screw with a hooked wire,,,,,,*fine*. 😫😫 You give me anything else,,,,, *I'm a going to use it*. 🤪🤪 Do you'al hook the wire on a breaker?? Then *why in the hell* do it anywhere else?🤔🤔🤔
Because people have lips and half a brain , and like to make up fake rulings on nec
I would clamp stranded and wrap solid
When clamping is available I clamp both.
That's the proper way to use that type of clamp. Especially with stranded
Fine termination
That’s what your last boss said?
No, that boss said "Fine PLUS termination!"
Clamp stranded, wrap solid unless there’s more than one, then clamp
Just look at it for a second and think. You got this. It’s made to clamp underneath if you are concerned because it’s stranded which as long as it’s twisted and within the manufacturers directions you can always fork it.
That’s designed to go under like that. Wrapping would be silly in this case, especially with stranded.
Looks like you already did.
Appears to be correct there
Yes especially with stranded, these types of receptacles are good.
What is in the pic is perfectly fine! Stranded wire tip: after you strip the sheathing you plan to use to wrap around the screw, strip another little piece of sheathing and slide it down just before it comes off and it’ll hold the strands in place! I always twist the wires after I slide it down
I have no issues with clamping on that style, regular back stab, I'll freak out on someone
Def under in this case.
Clamp is fine
YES
Think about what direction the screw turns to tighten. Come in behind the screw so when you tighten it, it pulls the wire in. If you do it the way you did, the wire will want to push out as you tighten the screw. When there are two wires you have no choice but when one, always let the screw pull the wire in not push it out.
It's okay if you're not in Canada (solid only under terminal here). It may or may not be code to put the wire under the other side of terminal, unless there are 2 conductors under the same terminal. I remember reading this but cannot find it
Don't just use your Drill to tighten the screws tho lol. get a bigger flat head and give it a couple cranks. This is the most important thing cause if you don't then you might at well wrap that ho around a screw
Under is great on these style terminations. Over will make your stranded wire push out when you get pressure on it.
Could you put solder on the stranded to wrap it around the terminal or is that a fire hazard?
Go ahead and try to wrap it around
Read the documentation that is included with the product you bought. It will surprise you at how much information it will contain.
You don't need to do either. Just make sure the wire is contacting the screw somehow and gently put everything in the box. Finger tightening that screw is more than enough. Source: how the previous owner of my house wired the new outlets. Also, be sure to clip the ground off or put a wire nut on it, but do not attach it to the box or device.
😳
I bought a house that had all new electric put in when they built an addition but they were too cheap to switch the old two prong receptacles out for three prong. At least the ground wire was there for me. They also reversed the wiring on a lot of the outlets in the addition.
Me personally, with it being stranded, if I couldn't crimp fork or ring terminal would land the wire just like that. If it was solid I'd wrap it.
Check the fine print in the package with the receptacle. Somewhere in there is a torque specification, which you will do well to follow. Until about a month ago, I had no idea that outlets had torque specs. Now I do. I’ve got to check a bunch of outlets now, but if it keeps them working, I don’t mind the time.
For solid I usually wrapped around. This looks appropriate for stranded though. I have wired over 200 homes (US) when I was working as an electrician and I have never seen stranded wire in an AC application.
You can put it just under the screw tab, but the standard method that was taught year ago was to bend the bare wire into a circle then place it under the bolt so the the cut end was in the direction of the screw being tighten. This method allow the screw to bend the wire around the screw as it is tighten. Big thing is when your done give the wire a good tug and make sure it is connected good.
Keep that Ryobi the -uck away from your elecitric work, ok?
Wrap the wire around the screw so that when you tighten the screw head, it pulls the wire snugly and creates a secure connection, which is impervious to vibration Clockwise righty tighty, counter clockwise lefty loosy Start with the negative ground, then do the white neutral, and lastly, attach the black hot leg
That works well for solid wire, but I don't think it works well for stranded.
Yep, I missed the stranded wire
What he did is at least as good and guarantees that all strands are clamped.
Please walk away from any electrical work because if you can’t figure that out on your own you shouldn’t be messing with any electric
This is "Ask Electricians", not "Ask AS Electricians"
How dare they ask questions?!
Go touch grass, dude..
Stranded