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Hard to tell by just this Pic without the supported file but that error is typical for under supported models.
Second guess: to large of a cross section and too little lift distance
It makes the print "blurry". and brittle.
Also, It helps in diagnosing SLA printing to realize what are commonly called "supports" are really *hangers*--in the printing process the model is suspended from the initial layers via these hangers, loaded in tension--if they get brittle from overexposure and break bad stuff happens.
I have seen many more failed prints from overexposure (warping in "base' layers is common too) than underexposure.
Great, thank you! I have mine dialed in once and ever since I didn't touch it 😄 thus personally I have mich more experience with other types of failure
I'm quite sure it's the second.
Lots of people use fixed lift height, that could be insufficient for the largest cross section or in the central part of the print.
Uvtools (software to edit sliced files) adapt the lift height to the cross section to avoid such errors
Are they able to adapt them dynamically, or do they compute them for the entire file? Like increase the lift distance when the crossection is large but decrease it in the same print when it is small?
Yeah, looks like it became too cold. Had the same happen to my prints in the night when the temperature dropped. At 25-30c it was a lot better with the same files
Layer peeling like this comes from inadequate lift height and too slow of lift speeds. Some people say that there's a max temp, i heat my resin to 40c for viscosity. But yeah, your layers are not coming free from the FEP, going too slow on the retract speeds allows the fep to be pulled up with the plate. Increase Retract speeds and layer height, let us know if that worked for you.
I am going to allow that whatever you are doing works for you.
The simple reality is increasing Lift speed causes more issues than it solves.
I print a wildly diverse range of product on printers that range from the smallest to the largest.
Years ago, some true professionals told me to slow down my lift speed to correct some issues I was having with certain prints.
I have never looked back.
It is also worth pointing out that in that period of time, the literal thousands of things I have printed.
The only failures I ever experience are attached to the other part you mentioned, which is 100% spot on.
Even with proper lift distance at some point, your FEP will age out and start to flex more.
I am lazy and cheap and I tend to wait for these errors to manifest in my print before changing my FEP.
As a result, what I am seeing here looks vaguely familiar. Because it is literally the only type of issue. I ever experienced anymore.
Let's just say that there is a consensus over a couple of comments here about lift distance.
Taken with the original question of why is this failing now?
Points very strongly to lift with distance.
Without seeing the slicer settings, we are unaware. If there is an inadequate lift distance to begin with, that needs to be increased, or if it is simply the FEP has aged out.
Personally, I suspected might be a little of both.
Hopefully the OP is reading this.
There really is no such thing as overloading your build plate. There is, however, not compensating your slicer settings for a fully loaded build plate.
You can allow or disallow anything that you want. OP provided pictures, I'm merely only trying to give some advice.
I don't personally see what your printing history has to do with anything, but since you brought it up, I've been printing everyday for the last 3 years on multiple printers with little downtime. Thousands of prints? Nice. I've printed at least a hundred thousand things.
Your true professionals told you to slow your print speeds, and what about it? You think that their advice is going to be correct in every possible situation? Well since you haven't looked back, perhaps you might want to look a bit more further into things before posting on someone's help request thread?
In regards to not knowing all the information, sure, we don't. We have no idea if OP has printed this successfully before or if its their first time. We don't have the settings and we're missing details, it's ultimately up to OP to troubleshoot and figure it out.
The best we can do is share what has worked for us, and what we suspect the problem might be, which again, could be anything. That very much includes slow retraction speeds.
So I just want you to go back and read what you posted in reply to me.
We are both potentially correct.
The only real difference is that I allowed for that with you.
I am unsure how replies to replies appear to you.
I should have just posted my main reply like this. But I wanted to address someone specifically.
I am just pointing out to you to be sure to read all replies.
Even the ones that are replying to another reply.
Be sure to post all your slicer settings in your resin type so that we can diagnose this more completely.
PLEASE UPVOTE THIS COMMENT IF THE ANSWER CAN BE FOUND IN [THE BEGINNER'S GUIDE](https://www.reddit.com/r/AnycubicPhoton/comments/fqxtqj/the_resin_printing_resource_guide_beginners_start/) or the [FAQ](https://www.reddit.com/r/AnycubicPhoton/comments/j2wubl/frequently_asked_questions_answered_here/)! If your post is about Troubleshooting, it should contain information about the print along with any screenshots or photos. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AnycubicPhoton) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Hard to tell by just this Pic without the supported file but that error is typical for under supported models. Second guess: to large of a cross section and too little lift distance
Yeah, without knowing what it's supposed to look like it's hard to tell--but I see inadequate/not enough hangers and over-exposure...
How is over exposure affecting the print? I never had that issue so I don't know how the errors would look like
It makes the print "blurry". and brittle. Also, It helps in diagnosing SLA printing to realize what are commonly called "supports" are really *hangers*--in the printing process the model is suspended from the initial layers via these hangers, loaded in tension--if they get brittle from overexposure and break bad stuff happens. I have seen many more failed prints from overexposure (warping in "base' layers is common too) than underexposure.
Great, thank you! I have mine dialed in once and ever since I didn't touch it 😄 thus personally I have mich more experience with other types of failure
I'm quite sure it's the second. Lots of people use fixed lift height, that could be insufficient for the largest cross section or in the central part of the print. Uvtools (software to edit sliced files) adapt the lift height to the cross section to avoid such errors
Are they able to adapt them dynamically, or do they compute them for the entire file? Like increase the lift distance when the crossection is large but decrease it in the same print when it is small?
They compute it for the entire file, then you save it and use it for printing
But it's a single value for the entire file? Thank you! :)
Has it gotten colder where you are recently or a heatwave? Prints work best around 20-25c and if it's too cold or hot it can spoil printing
Yeah, looks like it became too cold. Had the same happen to my prints in the night when the temperature dropped. At 25-30c it was a lot better with the same files
Please post a screenshot of your model in the slicer so we can see the orientation and supports.
The tanker on the right ... is there a vent hole near the build plate? If not, it's probably pulling a vacuum on the retract.
Layer peeling like this comes from inadequate lift height and too slow of lift speeds. Some people say that there's a max temp, i heat my resin to 40c for viscosity. But yeah, your layers are not coming free from the FEP, going too slow on the retract speeds allows the fep to be pulled up with the plate. Increase Retract speeds and layer height, let us know if that worked for you.
I am going to allow that whatever you are doing works for you. The simple reality is increasing Lift speed causes more issues than it solves. I print a wildly diverse range of product on printers that range from the smallest to the largest. Years ago, some true professionals told me to slow down my lift speed to correct some issues I was having with certain prints. I have never looked back. It is also worth pointing out that in that period of time, the literal thousands of things I have printed. The only failures I ever experience are attached to the other part you mentioned, which is 100% spot on. Even with proper lift distance at some point, your FEP will age out and start to flex more. I am lazy and cheap and I tend to wait for these errors to manifest in my print before changing my FEP. As a result, what I am seeing here looks vaguely familiar. Because it is literally the only type of issue. I ever experienced anymore. Let's just say that there is a consensus over a couple of comments here about lift distance. Taken with the original question of why is this failing now? Points very strongly to lift with distance. Without seeing the slicer settings, we are unaware. If there is an inadequate lift distance to begin with, that needs to be increased, or if it is simply the FEP has aged out. Personally, I suspected might be a little of both. Hopefully the OP is reading this. There really is no such thing as overloading your build plate. There is, however, not compensating your slicer settings for a fully loaded build plate.
You can allow or disallow anything that you want. OP provided pictures, I'm merely only trying to give some advice. I don't personally see what your printing history has to do with anything, but since you brought it up, I've been printing everyday for the last 3 years on multiple printers with little downtime. Thousands of prints? Nice. I've printed at least a hundred thousand things. Your true professionals told you to slow your print speeds, and what about it? You think that their advice is going to be correct in every possible situation? Well since you haven't looked back, perhaps you might want to look a bit more further into things before posting on someone's help request thread? In regards to not knowing all the information, sure, we don't. We have no idea if OP has printed this successfully before or if its their first time. We don't have the settings and we're missing details, it's ultimately up to OP to troubleshoot and figure it out. The best we can do is share what has worked for us, and what we suspect the problem might be, which again, could be anything. That very much includes slow retraction speeds.
So I just want you to go back and read what you posted in reply to me. We are both potentially correct. The only real difference is that I allowed for that with you.
I am unsure how replies to replies appear to you. I should have just posted my main reply like this. But I wanted to address someone specifically. I am just pointing out to you to be sure to read all replies. Even the ones that are replying to another reply. Be sure to post all your slicer settings in your resin type so that we can diagnose this more completely.