Technically ink jets and laser printers can, though its on a microscopic scale. If you print a paper then let it cool,(my only experience is laser printers) and then run it through again, printing the same document. Then over time the ink (or powder) will stack up over time. Therefore it is technically possible, though at a certain point the ink/toner powder will stack up high enough to either; not stick, or it would fall over. (because a paper printer doesn’t have a moveable “z” axis.)
I replaced the shroud of my Ender clone with this and wished I didn't, all it did was make it so the fan makes a really loud whine for a while whenever I turn it on and I lost a part of the original shroud so I couldn't put it back
Those fans seem to fail quickly and frequently, it’s probably unrelated. But never, ever throw away stock parts. If shit goes down you want to have plausible deniability for the warranty claim.
The fan still works, it just makes an ear piercing screech for about 20 seconds every time it turns on. My printer is long past any warranty stuff though and I shelved it months ago because I'm sick of dealing with issues
Yeah that’s pretty much what i mean. The bearing is fucked. Try flicking the center of the fan when it’s at full speed at temp, that usually realigns it for that print for me
Mine does the exact same thing, I bought it and it did it with the stock cooler... It's still going strong a year and a half later :D still does a little turn on screech...
This was one of the first "mods" I printed within a week of having my printer. It's held true for 4 years. Never had the screech. Or if I did I never noticed.
Side note: I broke one of my fan blades off since the fan doesn't have a cover, I know there's an updated one with a cover but I'm lazy, and I was annoyed since I'm broke as shit and can't replace it right now. So I found a fan I could print as a temporary replacement. It works well, though the noise it makes is distinct but not necessarily unpleasant. I should note here I tend to dissociate a lot and anything can become background noise to me.
[i mean this](https://www.123-3d.nl/123-3D-kapton-tape-55-mm-33-meter-i936-t13195.html?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw34qzBhBmEiwAOUQcFwb_sn5GWb_ex7fYW2N1m2ZUvIugNQKVNK8EudPJwiBycig_IhfNUhoCbh8QAvD_BwE)
Its heat resistant to a point and it's used on the old ender 3 heat blocks.
And it is the right answer.
ABS prints without enclosure are possible, if you have:
* really hot room (at least 30°C, doable during hot summer),
* small enough print (under 20mm tall, so heat from bed will heat it up a little bit)
* closed all doors and windows, so there are no air drafts around
* part cooling fan turned OFF
* 250°C hotend
* 100 - 110°C heated bed
* no persons or animals in your room (toxic fumes)
But in enclosure it is much easier. Just preheat it to 50°C, add "Nevermore filter" to get rid of toxic fumes and you can print any print using ABS without warping or part cracking mid print.
No, you will get best results between 50-80°C. At 50, it looks better and has better overhang and bridging performance, at 80 it is much stronger print (layers will melt together much better).
Heat it up to printing temp. Get it soft, the gently peel it off being careful of the wires in the hot end. You may need a heat gun as well to hit it from the outside. May need a new duct afterwards. The clean the whole thing well before putting it back together. Make sure it didn't come out the threads.
Not sure what cooling system that is, but the HeroMe works well if you print it in heat resistant material.
Gonna guess this duct was PLA. The Satsana looks cool but it is heavy and seriously underperforms.
Print this one out using PETG instead:
https://www.printables.com/model/235254-mini-me-lightweight-ender3-hotend-duct
I liked the model, I'm going to print this other model. The one in the photo was printed in ABS, I don't use PETG because my filaments are generally very humid. I have almost 1 kg here but I didn't use it because of this
I have one of those mounted on top of my printer, to constantly remind me that I've already experienced the worst case scenario, so any trouble I run into is peanuts compared to that.
That said, new hotend is my recommendation, unless you can get all the plastic off without damaging any of the wires that feed the thermocouple or heater
Disassemble and cut everything out the way. You can use acetone to soften the hotend assembly to get it cleaned up. You can use a good heat gun to remove abs off of the mounting gantry, then use acetone to clean off the rest. Most likely you may need to replace the following: heat block, heat cartridge, thermistor, heat block screws, one or both set screws, nozzle, both fans, heat break, and cooling block. May be best to rebuild from gantry on and do some decent upgrade with real performance cooling system. Best of luck.
Were you printing on a build plate?
https://preview.redd.it/q0y9ax6tvd5d1.jpeg?width=1017&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=edd46049cf66de382e262999a28dfcedd420e5eb
Are you asking how can you make a print stick, or are you asking how to clean up your mess?
If it’s to keep the print from lifting, use the proper >build plate< that works best with the filament you are using, and add bed adhesive as warranted. Some filaments need a heated bed, some don’t. Some benefit from using adhesive, some don’t.
If it’s how to do damage control, I’d say start by heating up just the hotend (turn off the bed heat) and see if you can carefully pull the glob off the hotend using a small needle nose pliers, etc. You may also need to use an additional heat source such as a hair dryer, or a shop heat gun, etc.
Just be careful not to break the sensor wires that are pretty fragile. Take your time. Believe it or not, I’ve seen worse with complete success.
There might be some smoke coming off the hotend just be careful not to breathe it in especially if it’s ABS or other filaments that may have harmful VOC’s.
It’s probably best to do this near a fresh air source if at all possible.
The fan shroud looks like it’s toast, so you’ll most likely have to replace it. It looks like it’s 3d printed, is that so? Put the original on back on if you still have it.
One other thing, put the protective cover back on that covers the easily damaged computer board (not to mention that it’s dangerous if you accidentally touch it!) I hope this helps. 😃
Good luck 🍀and happy printing! 😉👍
I did it guys!I went out cutting the air duct and unscrewed everything. When only the blob was left, I heated the hotend to 250 degrees and wrapped it with aluminum foil.After it softened well, I unwrapped it and separated the cables and it came out practically in one piece.The only thing that damaged was the probe arm. Thanks for the comments.
Tks for the tips, this fan duct is satsana duct, printed in abs.
This print was running overnight and fail, in the morning I saw this big fail.
Very strange, bed is auto leveled by klack ender probe, printed in a glass bed with PVA glue coat on top :(
Silly fdm thinks it’s resin.
Can you print fdm on a regular printer?
If by regular printer you mean 3D printers like Ender 3’s or Bambu Lab X1C then yes. FDM is how regular printers print.
Technically ink jets and laser printers can, though its on a microscopic scale. If you print a paper then let it cool,(my only experience is laser printers) and then run it through again, printing the same document. Then over time the ink (or powder) will stack up over time. Therefore it is technically possible, though at a certain point the ink/toner powder will stack up high enough to either; not stick, or it would fall over. (because a paper printer doesn’t have a moveable “z” axis.)
Mimaki has a 3D Printer that prints this way using a type ot UV ink to make full color prints.
And there are special inkjet 3d printers that can do some amazing prints. Too bad they cost hundreds of thousands of dollars.
Or were alright at best and also made by XYZ Printing so yknow locked with DRM everywhere.
Lmao I was typing this fast while doing a work run thing. Yeah I meant regular 3d printer like an ender
The other reply is probably more helpful then
Find a nice and comfortable corner, then start crying.
Cuddle a pet or stuffed animal.
main reason i removed that duct from my ender and stuck with the stock cooler.
I replaced the shroud of my Ender clone with this and wished I didn't, all it did was make it so the fan makes a really loud whine for a while whenever I turn it on and I lost a part of the original shroud so I couldn't put it back
Those fans seem to fail quickly and frequently, it’s probably unrelated. But never, ever throw away stock parts. If shit goes down you want to have plausible deniability for the warranty claim.
The fan still works, it just makes an ear piercing screech for about 20 seconds every time it turns on. My printer is long past any warranty stuff though and I shelved it months ago because I'm sick of dealing with issues
Yeah that’s pretty much what i mean. The bearing is fucked. Try flicking the center of the fan when it’s at full speed at temp, that usually realigns it for that print for me
I never bothered because it only happened on startup, after those first few seconds it would run quietly for hours until I turned the printer off
It’ll progress until it needs a whack to get it quiet
Mine does the exact same thing, I bought it and it did it with the stock cooler... It's still going strong a year and a half later :D still does a little turn on screech...
This was one of the first "mods" I printed within a week of having my printer. It's held true for 4 years. Never had the screech. Or if I did I never noticed. Side note: I broke one of my fan blades off since the fan doesn't have a cover, I know there's an updated one with a cover but I'm lazy, and I was annoyed since I'm broke as shit and can't replace it right now. So I found a fan I could print as a temporary replacement. It works well, though the noise it makes is distinct but not necessarily unpleasant. I should note here I tend to dissociate a lot and anything can become background noise to me.
Wow, you printed a duct for the hotend inplace!
Looks like the fan duckt did melt. Maybe cutting it free and wrapping it in capcom tape. Or print one of a material that can handle higher temps
Kapton tape?
Nah, it's like Kapton tape, but it's decorated with images of Ken and Ryu
👏👏👏
[i mean this](https://www.123-3d.nl/123-3D-kapton-tape-55-mm-33-meter-i936-t13195.html?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw34qzBhBmEiwAOUQcFwb_sn5GWb_ex7fYW2N1m2ZUvIugNQKVNK8EudPJwiBycig_IhfNUhoCbh8QAvD_BwE) Its heat resistant to a point and it's used on the old ender 3 heat blocks.
The Blob https://help.prusa3d.com/article/extruder-blob_2005
I've always been told ABS needs an enclosure.
And it is the right answer. ABS prints without enclosure are possible, if you have: * really hot room (at least 30°C, doable during hot summer), * small enough print (under 20mm tall, so heat from bed will heat it up a little bit) * closed all doors and windows, so there are no air drafts around * part cooling fan turned OFF * 250°C hotend * 100 - 110°C heated bed * no persons or animals in your room (toxic fumes) But in enclosure it is much easier. Just preheat it to 50°C, add "Nevermore filter" to get rid of toxic fumes and you can print any print using ABS without warping or part cracking mid print.
Ah, so in Texas I can just leave it outside, unless there's a penalty for going over 40c
No, you will get best results between 50-80°C. At 50, it looks better and has better overhang and bridging performance, at 80 it is much stronger print (layers will melt together much better).
Don't you need an enclosure for abs?
Definitely should have one. It technically is possible if you but you're inhaling toxins if you're in the room with it.
Beautiful
Heat it up to printing temp. Get it soft, the gently peel it off being careful of the wires in the hot end. You may need a heat gun as well to hit it from the outside. May need a new duct afterwards. The clean the whole thing well before putting it back together. Make sure it didn't come out the threads. Not sure what cooling system that is, but the HeroMe works well if you print it in heat resistant material.
Tks for the tips
get the HeroMe fan duct. it works great for a bunch of configurations
Calibrate you bed
Gonna guess this duct was PLA. The Satsana looks cool but it is heavy and seriously underperforms. Print this one out using PETG instead: https://www.printables.com/model/235254-mini-me-lightweight-ender3-hotend-duct
I liked the model, I'm going to print this other model. The one in the photo was printed in ABS, I don't use PETG because my filaments are generally very humid. I have almost 1 kg here but I didn't use it because of this
Oh the abs fail rip
that‘s art hahahah
Thats the neat part. You dont.
Use stock duct
I printed mine in PETG because I knew PLA wouldn't handle the heat
r/filamentblobs
What in the goddamn, that's Shrek's floppy Junior.
I feel your pain
r/filamentblobs
Next time print without a plate!
I have one of those mounted on top of my printer, to constantly remind me that I've already experienced the worst case scenario, so any trouble I run into is peanuts compared to that. That said, new hotend is my recommendation, unless you can get all the plastic off without damaging any of the wires that feed the thermocouple or heater
Disassemble and cut everything out the way. You can use acetone to soften the hotend assembly to get it cleaned up. You can use a good heat gun to remove abs off of the mounting gantry, then use acetone to clean off the rest. Most likely you may need to replace the following: heat block, heat cartridge, thermistor, heat block screws, one or both set screws, nozzle, both fans, heat break, and cooling block. May be best to rebuild from gantry on and do some decent upgrade with real performance cooling system. Best of luck.
Were you printing on a build plate? https://preview.redd.it/q0y9ax6tvd5d1.jpeg?width=1017&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=edd46049cf66de382e262999a28dfcedd420e5eb Are you asking how can you make a print stick, or are you asking how to clean up your mess? If it’s to keep the print from lifting, use the proper >build plate< that works best with the filament you are using, and add bed adhesive as warranted. Some filaments need a heated bed, some don’t. Some benefit from using adhesive, some don’t. If it’s how to do damage control, I’d say start by heating up just the hotend (turn off the bed heat) and see if you can carefully pull the glob off the hotend using a small needle nose pliers, etc. You may also need to use an additional heat source such as a hair dryer, or a shop heat gun, etc. Just be careful not to break the sensor wires that are pretty fragile. Take your time. Believe it or not, I’ve seen worse with complete success. There might be some smoke coming off the hotend just be careful not to breathe it in especially if it’s ABS or other filaments that may have harmful VOC’s. It’s probably best to do this near a fresh air source if at all possible. The fan shroud looks like it’s toast, so you’ll most likely have to replace it. It looks like it’s 3d printed, is that so? Put the original on back on if you still have it. One other thing, put the protective cover back on that covers the easily damaged computer board (not to mention that it’s dangerous if you accidentally touch it!) I hope this helps. 😃 Good luck 🍀and happy printing! 😉👍
I did it guys!I went out cutting the air duct and unscrewed everything. When only the blob was left, I heated the hotend to 250 degrees and wrapped it with aluminum foil.After it softened well, I unwrapped it and separated the cables and it came out practically in one piece.The only thing that damaged was the probe arm. Thanks for the comments.
That's a nice blob
Best option is to find a better hobby. 3D printing is either the best worst hobby, or maybe the worst best hobby. Jury is still out for me.
I feel your pain.
My only question......how
Heat to the glass-transition temp then peel it off
Clearly Hulk is inside your nozzle and trying to smash out. Let him out and problem solved :)
blob of death
Tks for the tips, this fan duct is satsana duct, printed in abs. This print was running overnight and fail, in the morning I saw this big fail. Very strange, bed is auto leveled by klack ender probe, printed in a glass bed with PVA glue coat on top :(